Clutch to the floor question..
08-01-2008, 05:41 PM
#17
08-01-2008, 09:20 PM
#19
08-01-2008, 10:17 PM
#21
08-01-2008, 10:42 PM
#22
Advanced
Join Date: Jan 2005
Posts: 67
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
FYI, I know it sounds expensive, but if bleeding the clutch doesn't help, and replacing the rubber line doesn't fix the problem, replace both Master and Slave at the same time.
With wear on mechanics (truly the seals relax), if you replace one item, it can cause the next item to fail soon. (more pressure on older seals).
Plus when replacing them both, you have the time to adjust and check every part of it, thus you will trust it.
With wear on mechanics (truly the seals relax), if you replace one item, it can cause the next item to fail soon. (more pressure on older seals).
Plus when replacing them both, you have the time to adjust and check every part of it, thus you will trust it.
08-01-2008, 10:53 PM
#23
FYI, I know it sounds expensive, but if bleeding the clutch doesn't help, and replacing the rubber line doesn't fix the problem, replace both Master and Slave at the same time.
With wear on mechanics (truly the seals relax), if you replace one item, it can cause the next item to fail soon. (more pressure on older seals).
Plus when replacing them both, you have the time to adjust and check every part of it, thus you will trust it.
With wear on mechanics (truly the seals relax), if you replace one item, it can cause the next item to fail soon. (more pressure on older seals).
Plus when replacing them both, you have the time to adjust and check every part of it, thus you will trust it.
Would it make sense to bleed the clutch if I am having the inside leak on the driver side?
08-01-2008, 11:51 PM
#24
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
No, if theres a leak, like you have, you need to fix the leak first. Good luck. Master clutch cylinder is a pain in the *** to get to.. supposedly you can do it without removing much else, but having small hands and long wrenches is pretty necessary, otherwise see what you can move out of the way. It's down towards teh fender below the brake booster.
08-02-2008, 12:10 AM
#25
No, if theres a leak, like you have, you need to fix the leak first. Good luck. Master clutch cylinder is a pain in the *** to get to.. supposedly you can do it without removing much else, but having small hands and long wrenches is pretty necessary, otherwise see what you can move out of the way. It's down towards teh fender below the brake booster.
Will I be spending time mostly under the dash or under the hood for this process?
T.I.A
Last edited by Toran; 08-02-2008 at 02:59 AM. Reason: Spelling
08-02-2008, 06:10 AM
#26
Racer
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Honolulu
Posts: 429
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Fuuuck. This just happened to me the past two days. Whoever the previous poster was who said they thought it was a pedal binding thing, that's wishful thinking. Yours will fail too. The first day I thought the same thing and I'd use my toe to pull up on the clutch pedal and all would be well. The second day, I started stalling out in first or reverse as I creeped in and out of parking spaces. Then total collapse, pedal to the floor. The car is presently at my office garage for the weekend until I can get it towed in to my mechanic's garage.
I'm surprised this thread is so timely to my situation, too. I thought I'd have to unearth an old thread.
I'm surprised this thread is so timely to my situation, too. I thought I'd have to unearth an old thread.
