Matt O.

Holy cow what a day. Cut hands, knuckles, etc.

Let me first say that none of my troubles were the fault of KLA or the KLA strut brace. Quite the contrary, I probably wouldn't have it finished if it wasn't for Ken at KLA.

It appears that my strut towers were not to spec. Either something got messed up in a collision (not since I've owned) or they replaced with non-OEM parts. Not quite sure. Whatever it was... WHAT A PAIN!!!

After bleeding all over my tower without even knowing it (don't you hate that) I got my finger bandaged up and continued working. Stripped two of the bolts (hurrah) trying to torque the strut plate down. It wouldn't go down (hence the stripped bolts). For the life of me I couldn't figure it out. The plates were exact mirror images of each other, near perfect, and each worked fine on the driver's side. But neither worked on the passenger sides (this makes it obviously my car's fault and not the quality of the product).

SO...

I'm back and forth from Lowes today about twice, and once to Sears trying to find the right tools I need. Of course, any time you ask a question at any of those places that is other then "Where are the rakes?" you get this blank look on your face.

I was back on the phone with Ken after each trip to the store, trying to get the next step completed.

Finally, I ended opening up the holes on the plate (two different times), shaving out the side opposite the weld on the plate (multiple times) and then the fun began.

I pulled the wheel and got to the strut where the bolts go up from. I drilled the two that were stripped out from the top (WHAT A PITA!!!) and the got two 1/2in (I think) bolts and popped those puppies down thru the strut plate and through the OEM hole, both with locking washers and what not. So, then I thru the other two bolts that weren't stripped (although number 3 was close to it, may covert it to the larger bolts later). Then I had to hack a quarter inch off the strut bar so it would fit.

What fun.

Let me say again NONE of you should have ANY problems installing your strut brace from KLA if your car is true.

The brace came packaged well and looks very professional. Ken was telling me he installed one on each of his 944s and they popped right on.

All in all what a day. Still haven't even gotten to my 968 style antenna install yet. Need to get that done for the drive up to Raleigh tomorrow to hang out with the Hurricane Region PCA club!! Need to represent the NA 944 community to the fullest!

Thanks for reading (LONG!!) and a public THANKY YOU to Ken and Scott and the rest at KLA for a great product, and especially Ken for all his help today on the phone!

-Matt

PorscheG96

Post pics! With the antenna, too.

SamGrant951

I just got mine today too, looks nice, will install within a few days or so. Will take pics of course...

Matt O.

Holy cow long day.

Ok, just got the antenna done...and...

WORKS AWESOME. Something must have been wrong with my stock one, or it was just old because this is an amplified antenna and I don't even have the power hooked up (couldn't figure out how) and it still picks up every station. I'd get MAYBE 3 stations with my stock one.

Plus it looks great!!

I was about a cm or so off line, but you can't really tell.

I'll get pictures as soon as I can. My camera is not working (trashed it) so none tonight. But take my word for it, it looks good.

I got the antenna from a guy on eBay, 25 bucks to my door. Very good eBayer. I believe his website is <a href="http://www.locustom.com" target="_blank">www.locustom.com</a> and his name is Mike Lough. The antenna I got isn't at his website, but email him directly if you want it. Tell him the one that "matman96" bought from him.

Also, the thing was a pain in the butt to install. I had to cut alot of metal away to get it to fit up in there but the ends justify the means. It came with a 15' line so there is no problem routing it to the radio. I just took it under the carpet after coming down from the headliner. Can't even tell it's there.

Pics when I can.

-Matt

slevy951

Matt-

What a day! Glad we could help out and things worked out in the end. Any driving impressions yet?

Michael Weinstein

I had some trouble putting an OMP strut brace onto my Volvo. I ended up loosening the nuts on the strut towers and jacking the front end of the car up and down until everything matched up. Go slowly, and it is easy to see when it is close. Thread the nuts back on, but don't tighten until after you've lowered the car off of the jack.

Matt O.

[quote]Originally posted by slevy951:
<strong> Any driving impressions yet?</strong><hr></blockquote>

Actually, yes. The car seems MUCH tighter. During that PCA run I was able to really wind it out because they left me (I had to get fuel) and there was much open road for Matt to play on.

It is definitely tighter. I'm going to have someone open the hood and either remove the bar or leave it there, then go for a drive and see if I can tell. My guess is I will be able to tell right away.

The car is stock setup except 200lbs springs in the front, and Bridgestone Potenza 205/225 tires.

-Matt

hplj123

I too amd glad you got things working. I think I know what might be different on your car but would need a picture of both shock towere.

ken

Matt O.

Ken, there may be a digital cam in the works for Christmas. I'll snap a bunch if that's the case.

Also, do cross-drilled really remove alot of the brake fade that occurs during hard driving? Would routing air to the brakes help that as well? I experienced some the other day, probably the hardest braking I've done at that car, and I didn't like it.

Thanks!

slevy951

[quote]Originally posted by Matt Olde:
<strong>

Actually, yes. The car seems MUCH tighter. During that PCA run I was able to really wind it out because they left me (I had to get fuel) and there was much open road for Matt to play on.

It is definitely tighter. I'm going to have someone open the hood and either remove the bar or leave it there, then go for a drive and see if I can tell. My guess is I will be able to tell right away.

The car is stock setup except 200lbs springs in the front, and Bridgestone Potenza 205/225 tires.

-Matt</strong><hr></blockquote>

I felt the same. IMHO, defineltly better, noticable difference......

Sami951

[quote]Originally posted by Matt Olde:
<strong>Also, do cross-drilled really remove alot of the brake fade that occurs during hard driving? Would routing air to the brakes help that as well? I experienced some the other day, probably the hardest braking I've done at that car, and I didn't like it. </strong><hr></blockquote>

Matt,

before getting drilled rotors (I have no idea if they help, but at least they'd sure look neat, heheh) ... when did you last change your brake fluid?

I was getting quite a bit of brake fade on the track just two years ago. Last year I replaced the fluid with ATE blue and noticed an immediate improvement, and this year I changed the pads too(EBC green) ... and voilá, no fading even though I was going a lot faster

Just an idea..
<img src="graemlins/beerchug.gif" border="0" alt="[cheers]" />

Riff

For those of you with the KLA strut brace installed, did you place any pre-load on the bar??? Should there be any pre-load during installation??

Thanks,

924Superwagen

[quote]Originally posted by Matt Olde:
<strong>Also, do cross-drilled really remove alot of the brake fade that occurs during hard driving? Would routing air to the brakes help that as well?</strong><hr></blockquote>Anything that aids in cooling the brakes will reduce the amount of brake fade. As most of us know, the brake system works by transferring kinetic energy into thermal energy. This heat energy is stored as heat in all parts of your brake system - pads, calipers, rotors, etc. Once these components, especially rotors, experience heat soak, they are no longer able to transfer kinetic to thermal energy because the thermal energy can no longer be absorbed by the components, therefore their effectiveness is compromised. It follows that anything that aids in cooling brake components will help with brake fade, be it cross drilled or vented rotors or cooling ducts.

hplj123

The accepted practice is to leave the bar without pre-load.

Ken

User 41221

I installed mine without pre-load. I don't see any benefit to put load on there.

Regards, ...Scott