Intake spacers... does anyone make them?
#2
Rennlist Member
Spacers? you mean gaskets? try pelican...
cooler air temps help performance in theory, but in practice, they only really matter on turbocharged cars where there is a significant source of heat in the intake tract (the turbo, that is). on N/A cars, you won't really see much of a difference at all in changing manifold temps a few degrees. Running without gaskets would be bad, but for a separate reason altogether
cooler air temps help performance in theory, but in practice, they only really matter on turbocharged cars where there is a significant source of heat in the intake tract (the turbo, that is). on N/A cars, you won't really see much of a difference at all in changing manifold temps a few degrees. Running without gaskets would be bad, but for a separate reason altogether
#3
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
Spacers? you mean gaskets? try pelican...
cooler air temps help performance in theory, but in practice, they only really matter on turbocharged cars where there is a significant source of heat in the intake tract (the turbo, that is). on N/A cars, you won't really see much of a difference at all in changing manifold temps a few degrees. Running without gaskets would be bad, but for a separate reason altogether
cooler air temps help performance in theory, but in practice, they only really matter on turbocharged cars where there is a significant source of heat in the intake tract (the turbo, that is). on N/A cars, you won't really see much of a difference at all in changing manifold temps a few degrees. Running without gaskets would be bad, but for a separate reason altogether
#4
Rennlist Member
yup...with the 2.7tt, managing heat is a much bigger issue than on a 2.5l n/a. What kind of 2.7t do you have? S4?
I got a ride in an S4 wagon once - even though it was a wagon and a tiptronic, that thing was FAST....like faster than I ever thought a station wagon could/should be haha
I got a ride in an S4 wagon once - even though it was a wagon and a tiptronic, that thing was FAST....like faster than I ever thought a station wagon could/should be haha
#5
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
yup...with the 2.7tt, managing heat is a much bigger issue than on a 2.5l n/a. What kind of 2.7t do you have? S4?
I got a ride in an S4 wagon once - even though it was a wagon and a tiptronic, that thing was FAST....like faster than I ever thought a station wagon could/should be haha
I got a ride in an S4 wagon once - even though it was a wagon and a tiptronic, that thing was FAST....like faster than I ever thought a station wagon could/should be haha
#6
Rennlist Member
nice...they're really solid cars and I do like the interior of the A6 a lot. I used to have an A4 1.8T that was unstoppable in the snow. I sold it a few months back and must admit to missing it a little...
#7
Drifting
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#8
Hey Man
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
I did see 944 phenolic spacers on eBay last year. The claim that less conductive heat is transferred from the head might have some merit but I feel better reductions can be achieved with an under manifold heat shield and radiant barrier coatings on the manifold itself.
Last edited by KuHL 951; 07-15-2008 at 11:38 AM.
#9
Burning Brakes
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Abbotsford, B.C.
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I remember seeing those on ebay as well a while back.
#10
I have the kit, let me tell you it works wonders
Kuhl most of the heat transfered into the intake manifold comes from the cylinder head
I installed this kit on my Turbo and on a friend's '83. After going for a drive and popping the hood, the manifold is warm to the touch while any other part of the engine will burn you if you keep your hand on it for more than a half second.
Kuhl most of the heat transfered into the intake manifold comes from the cylinder head
I installed this kit on my Turbo and on a friend's '83. After going for a drive and popping the hood, the manifold is warm to the touch while any other part of the engine will burn you if you keep your hand on it for more than a half second.
#11
Rennlist Member
I have full access to a CNC and Water-jet. I'd be interested in maybe making a set for a trial run for someone, would be quite simple as in theory you would just need 2 sets of IM gaskets and longer bolts to pass through the spacers.
How thick would you say the spacers are? And are they just Alum?
EDIT: what about the injector location, how does that work with the spacers?
How thick would you say the spacers are? And are they just Alum?
EDIT: what about the injector location, how does that work with the spacers?
#13
Nordschleife Master
I have full access to a CNC and Water-jet. I'd be interested in maybe making a set for a trial run for someone, would be quite simple as in theory you would just need 2 sets of IM gaskets and longer bolts to pass through the spacers.
How thick would you say the spacers are? And are they just Alum?
EDIT: what about the injector location, how does that work with the spacers?
How thick would you say the spacers are? And are they just Alum?
EDIT: what about the injector location, how does that work with the spacers?
C.
#15
The kit consists of:
8 OEM intake manifold gaskets
4 Phenolic Spacers for Intake Manifold
2 Phenolic Spacers for fuel rail tabs
8 Studs
8 Nuts
10 rubber backed washers
2 Longer bolts (for fuel rail tabs)
The spacers have the relief for the spray pattern of the fuel.
The entire fuel rail is moved up with the manifold. This gives the fuel more time to atomize within the air which will cool the intake charge further.
The only modification one might have to do is elongate the holes on the fuel rail tabs. On Late cars these holes are elongated from the factory but on the early ones they are not.
8 OEM intake manifold gaskets
4 Phenolic Spacers for Intake Manifold
2 Phenolic Spacers for fuel rail tabs
8 Studs
8 Nuts
10 rubber backed washers
2 Longer bolts (for fuel rail tabs)
The spacers have the relief for the spray pattern of the fuel.
The entire fuel rail is moved up with the manifold. This gives the fuel more time to atomize within the air which will cool the intake charge further.
The only modification one might have to do is elongate the holes on the fuel rail tabs. On Late cars these holes are elongated from the factory but on the early ones they are not.