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purchase of an 89 turbo ? X post

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Old 07-10-2008 | 10:10 AM
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Default purchase of an 89 turbo ? X post

Last night I looked at an 89 Turbo with 80k miles that I am considering but I have some questions. The car is in good shape but has been negleted so it will need some work which is why I am here. I have owned two NA,s but no turbos so I am a little in the dark.
First the car isn't making much boost so there is some problem there. Feels about the same as my NA. I am sure this could be many things but what would be the most likely.
I couldn't drive the car far due to it running very hot. Looks like it is leaking coolant near the water pump so I am thinking it may just need a pump to solve that problem and of course new t belts seals and such.

Value. Like I said the car has some potential but I'm not sure what it's worth. Has a dent in the front header panel and a crack in the bumper cover. Both will need to be replaced, other than that the body looks very straight. It is a light blue color.
No records on the car but is basically a one owner as the guy who has it now has only had it for a few months and he has no wrench skills so he has no idea or money for the repairs.
So I guess what I am asking is what is the I can't pass it up price??
Old 07-10-2008 | 11:12 AM
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header panel should be pretty easy to replace, hardest part would be finding one in that color.

how bad is the cracking on the bumper cover? i mite want it

no boost im guessing means the wastegate is shot.
Old 07-10-2008 | 11:38 AM
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What about the value? How much is the waste gate? Can it be rebuilt?
Old 07-10-2008 | 11:48 AM
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I've done my fair share of enjoying turbo cars, and I can say there are a-billion-and-one reasons why that car wouldn't be boosting as usual. I doubt it's the wastegate. If it builds any boost it should be fine since it would probably be either stuck closed or open. The wheel of the turbo will probably go out before that does. It sounds like a vacuum leak to me. I would suggest a leak-down test after you purchase the car.

6 or 7k for the car should be decent, right? I mean, it needs work. One in perfect shape would bring a bit more money.
Old 07-10-2008 | 11:55 AM
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YOu definitely need to get a 951 guru to look at it before you start talking price. Best case scenario, the problems are easily fixed, and you pick the car up cheap. Leak down test is a good ideas BEFORE you buy the car!

If you go into it blind, the car could be worth anywhere from $3,000 to $12,000. You just don't know until you check.
Old 07-10-2008 | 12:01 PM
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I can get the car for around 4k it looks good completeley stock with the forged wheels. dash is in bad shape but the rest of the interior looks good, has the Porsche script in white. Ah what to do?
Old 07-10-2008 | 12:15 PM
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link?
Old 07-10-2008 | 01:20 PM
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link to pics on turbo board.

https://rennlist.com/forums/944-turbo-and-turbo-s-forum/441772-purchase-of-an-89-turbo.html
Old 07-10-2008 | 03:50 PM
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Originally Posted by wrightbenz
I can get the car for around 4k it looks good completeley stock with the forged wheels. dash is in bad shape but the rest of the interior looks good, has the Porsche script in white. Ah what to do?
for 4k i say do it. if it looks like it was never wrecked, you can sell it for a profit if you think it needs too much.

the car has forged wheels, a LSD transmission, bigger brakes and sport seats that if parted will get you most if not all of your money back.
Old 07-10-2008 | 04:15 PM
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Being a previous NA owner and going into a turbo its like night and day. Why would you buy a car that has obvious issues known to you. When I bought my NA I had test driven a Turbo. The Turbo was fast as hell...but I passed because it had known issues that I observed. The lights didnt work along with the power windows, locks and mostly all the electronic stuff. I passed on it and bought the NA. Turns out the owner of the NA bought the Turbo I test drove. We kept in contact but he did tell me that he had to repalce all the fuses, lights, rewire and all kinds of crap. The NA I bought was in great condition and besides it being totaled a couple years ago. I was lucky and had minimal issues with it. Buy a Turbo thats well kept and in good shape. What you think your saving on a cheap Turbo may double easily with a car that was obviously neglected. I wouldn't want to be fixing a car I just bought. I'd rather drive the hell out of it...but thats just me.
Old 07-10-2008 | 05:30 PM
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Hey chitown, seems like you are always around when I post. Yes the car has some issues but I think it may be worth the effort considering that the 89 with all of the turbo s options. I am perfectly capable of repairing anything the car needs and the car isn't as bad as maybe I made it sound.
Old 07-10-2008 | 05:48 PM
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Originally Posted by Marcquito
I've done my fair share of enjoying turbo cars, and I can say there are a-billion-and-one reasons why that car wouldn't be boosting as usual. I doubt it's the wastegate. If it builds any boost it should be fine since it would probably be either stuck closed or open. The wheel of the turbo will probably go out before that does. It sounds like a vacuum leak to me. I would suggest a leak-down test after you purchase the car.

6 or 7k for the car should be decent, right? I mean, it needs work. One in perfect shape would bring a bit more money.
Wastegate will go before the compressor wheel does. If the compressor wheel is jacked, that means either too much play in the shaft or debris entered the compressor housing. My car has 172k miles and almost ZERO shaft play. Wastegate springs can weaken and bleed off boost quickly. I'd place bad wastegate towards the top. Also check to make sure there aren't any obvious boost leaks, which would probably be in/around/under the manifold. Also could be a bad cycling valve. The cycling valve is the factory boost control mechanism and is located under the intake towards the rear. There is a "vacuum manifold" under there that has rubber lines. Mine literally broke off in my hand when I was under there so I had to replace a lot of them. There is also a nice long line going from the CV all the way down to the waste gate. I agree that there are a billion and one reasons for low boost scenarios, just gotta start researching. Clarks-garage has a lot of good info on the Turbo (don't know if you referenced it for any work on your N/A).

Also seeing as you couldn't drive it very far due to heat, I'd be wary that it wasn't driven too hot. You already said the guy didn't have much knowledge or money, so it's a possibility that the block could have overheated.

Header panel is easy to replace.

-Darwin
Old 07-10-2008 | 06:03 PM
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Originally Posted by ModdedEverything951S
Wastegate will go before the compressor wheel does. If the compressor wheel is jacked, that means either too much play in the shaft or debris entered the compressor housing. My car has 172k miles and almost ZERO shaft play. Wastegate springs can weaken and bleed off boost quickly. I'd place bad wastegate towards the top. Also check to make sure there aren't any obvious boost leaks, which would probably be in/around/under the manifold. Also could be a bad cycling valve. The cycling valve is the factory boost control mechanism and is located under the intake towards the rear. There is a "vacuum manifold" under there that has rubber lines. Mine literally broke off in my hand when I was under there so I had to replace a lot of them. There is also a nice long line going from the CV all the way down to the waste gate. I agree that there are a billion and one reasons for low boost scenarios, just gotta start researching. Clarks-garage has a lot of good info on the Turbo (don't know if you referenced it for any work on your N/A).

Also seeing as you couldn't drive it very far due to heat, I'd be wary that it wasn't driven too hot. You already said the guy didn't have much knowledge or money, so it's a possibility that the block could have overheated.

Header panel is easy to replace.

-Darwin
Well, I'm just going by my own experience. I've gone through a few used turbos on my other cars and never had any wastegate problems. A majority of the time the compressor wheel wheel, exhaust, gaskets, hoses, lines, and blow off valve were all trouble instead. A leak-down test is probably the best thing you an do to diagnose these things, anyway.

To the OP: Don't worry about anyone telling you how you need to be careful if wiring or **** is going array when you look at it. It all can be fixed and quite cheaply if you search around. Don't pass up a nice turbo that runs nice when the only problems you see are ones from a previous owner who neglected the small things. As long as the motor or trans isn't blown, I don't see a problem.
Old 07-10-2008 | 06:06 PM
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Originally Posted by Marcquito
To the OP: Don't worry about anyone telling you how you need to be careful if wiring or **** is going array when you look at it. It all can be fixed and quite cheaply if you search around. Don't pass up a nice turbo that runs nice when the only problems you see are ones from a previous owner who neglected the small things. As long as the motor or trans isn't blown, I don't see a problem.
While I do agree that you shouldn't let others dictate your decision, wiring issues can be extremely difficult to diagnose and repair. All things must be taken into consideration. I always keep in mind the saying that "there's nothing more expensive than a cheap Porsche."

-Darwin
Old 07-10-2008 | 07:18 PM
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To the OP: Don't worry about anyone telling you how you need to be careful if wiring or **** is going array when you look at it. It all can be fixed and quite cheaply if you search around. Don't pass up a nice turbo that runs nice when the only problems you see are ones from a previous owner who neglected the small things. As long as the motor or trans isn't blown, I don't see a problem.
Thanks, I agree I don't think there is that big of a risk here. And i don't think I will find many 89s for 4k. I am usually lucky with cars like this and my sense is that this could be a great car.

Also seeing as you couldn't drive it very far due to heat, I'd be wary that it wasn't driven too hot. You already said the guy didn't have much knowledge or money, so it's a possibility that the block could have overheated.
I am a bit worried about the overheating, I thought maybe a bad head gasket but the oil isn't milky and the car ran fine. Any other damage that may have occurred?


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