On the Road Again - Photos of the new wheels!
#17
Race Car
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Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Katy, TX - Texas Greaseslingers West
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Tom,
I measured the tread depth and as best I can tell it's just under 10/32. Both front and rears are nearly identical at 7.2mm or .28346 inches. I think, if my math is correct, that this puts the depth at 9.6/32 - not quite 10/32. The tires have about 50 miles on them. Measurements were taken by placing a business card in the tread and marking the card - then using a ruler to determine the depth. By the way, thanks for the info on your web site and in your recent posts. I went with your suggestions when selecting the tire widths - I had already decided on the SO3's so I'll try and take a little credit for myself on that one.
Danno, I don't recall for sure if the C2's were solid or hollowed out. I'm thinking they were cut away, but not as much as the Cups.
Thanks for all the comments on the wheels guys - 968 Mirrors and Door Handles are going to the paint shop this week! I'll post some new pics after those are installed.
I measured the tread depth and as best I can tell it's just under 10/32. Both front and rears are nearly identical at 7.2mm or .28346 inches. I think, if my math is correct, that this puts the depth at 9.6/32 - not quite 10/32. The tires have about 50 miles on them. Measurements were taken by placing a business card in the tread and marking the card - then using a ruler to determine the depth. By the way, thanks for the info on your web site and in your recent posts. I went with your suggestions when selecting the tire widths - I had already decided on the SO3's so I'll try and take a little credit for myself on that one.
Danno, I don't recall for sure if the C2's were solid or hollowed out. I'm thinking they were cut away, but not as much as the Cups.
Thanks for all the comments on the wheels guys - 968 Mirrors and Door Handles are going to the paint shop this week! I'll post some new pics after those are installed.
#19
Race Car
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Location: Katy, TX - Texas Greaseslingers West
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I haven't tried yet. I still have the open ended lugs on. I was going to paint the original alloy lugs, but haven't gotten around to it yet.
Actually that's not quite true...
I tried to use the aircraft paint remover that everyone was talking about, but the paint on the lug nuts wouldn't budge! Let the dang things set for several hours - and nothing! Not even a little bubble of paint.
I try mine tommorrow and get back to the board.
Later,
<img src="graemlins/burnout.gif" border="0" alt="[burnout]" />
Actually that's not quite true...
I tried to use the aircraft paint remover that everyone was talking about, but the paint on the lug nuts wouldn't budge! Let the dang things set for several hours - and nothing! Not even a little bubble of paint.
I try mine tommorrow and get back to the board.
Later,
<img src="graemlins/burnout.gif" border="0" alt="[burnout]" />
#20
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Well, curiosity got the better of me and I had to go ahead and try the wheel locks tonight.
Luckily, mine fit fine.
On both the rear and the fronts the studs come out right to the ends of the open lugs - they're practically flush on both. The regular alloy nuts are threaded way beyond where the open lugs stop, so they fit fine.
My locking lugs are threaded about the same depth as the open lugs. Where the locking lug threads end the "barrel" opens slightly so you could bolt on a longer stud. I'm assuming that this is where your lock mechanism is hitting the end of the stud. But my studs are flush with the end of the open lugs, so I've got plenty of room.
There were two sizes of studs used in my conversion. I do not know which is the longer, but the part numbers were 911.331.671.00 ($3.70 each)and 901.331.671.01 ($3.62 each).
If I recall, I think the longer ones were less expensive. I seem to recall thinking that was strange at the time.
Hope this helps,
<img src="graemlins/burnout.gif" border="0" alt="[burnout]" />
Luckily, mine fit fine.
On both the rear and the fronts the studs come out right to the ends of the open lugs - they're practically flush on both. The regular alloy nuts are threaded way beyond where the open lugs stop, so they fit fine.
My locking lugs are threaded about the same depth as the open lugs. Where the locking lug threads end the "barrel" opens slightly so you could bolt on a longer stud. I'm assuming that this is where your lock mechanism is hitting the end of the stud. But my studs are flush with the end of the open lugs, so I've got plenty of room.
There were two sizes of studs used in my conversion. I do not know which is the longer, but the part numbers were 911.331.671.00 ($3.70 each)and 901.331.671.01 ($3.62 each).
If I recall, I think the longer ones were less expensive. I seem to recall thinking that was strange at the time.
Hope this helps,
<img src="graemlins/burnout.gif" border="0" alt="[burnout]" />
#21
Race Director
Bill, sorry I made a mistake and had you order 72mm lugs all around. The 65mm ones would've been better for the front. I could actually use a set of 72mm lugs if you want to swap for a new set of 65mm ones the next time I'm up there...