iloveporsches

Well, this morning I was pulling out of my driveway. As I backed onto the streetm I tried pushing the clutch down and putting it into first...the clutch stayed on the floor.

After getting my brother to help me push it back into the driveway, I got a ride to school from one of my friends. Me and a few more people pushed it into the garage, and I started it up to see if I could hear anything weird

When the car is running, there is definately a weird noise coming from where the clutch is. When I push the pedal down, it gets louder/ more intense. When I let go of the pedal, it goes away for a second, then quickly builds back up to the same noise. The pedal isn't staying on the floor any more, but it is sticking near the bottom. There's no fluid on the ground, and the brake fluid reservior is full.

Here;s the two things I think it could be (these are just pure guesses from minimal experience):

Bad clutch slave cylinder (brakes still work fine)
Leak in the line?
Shattered clutch center <img src="graemlins/crying.gif" border="0" alt="[crying]" />

I asked my shop teacher, and although most of his experience is with domestics, he thinks it sounds like a hydraulic problem.

Anybody have any ideas on what could be wrong or what I could look for/test? Thanks.

User 41221

My money is a bad clutch master/slave cylinder. You might look up under the dash and see if you see any fluid coming in to verify. Also, be sure to do both master and slave cylinders at the same time.

Regards, ...Scott

iloveporsches

I just looked at the price of said parts on Paragon, and I'm relieved. Less than $150

STill would like some more input, and also how hard is it to replace the master/slave clutch cylinders? Are they easily accesible? Are they the shinny things I see on the bottom of the car right behind the clutch?

Thanks! <img src="graemlins/xyxwave.gif" border="0" alt="[bigbye]" />

IceShark

I had this happen to me about 6 months ago and couldn't find any leaking fluid for the life of me and thought it must be the clutch.

Guys talked me into doing the master and slave first, since both would be replaced in a good clutch job anyway.

Guess what? That is what the problem was. <img src="graemlins/roflmao.gif" border="0" alt="[hiha]" />

Try it first before you go through the nightmare of pulling the clutch apart.

User 41221

Its not terribly hard to replace them, but bleeding them is a bit of a chore. Definitely nice to have a power bleeder available for this, altho its not impossible without. A good friend with a strong leg who will pump the pedal for 30-45 minutes is requred if you are bleeding manually.

Regards, ...Scott

pete944

I just did this last weekend. It's really wierd how we all seem to have the same problems at the same time. Definitely get the Motive power bleeder, it's only $45 at Paragon and for this particular job it's worth a million bucks. This thread has my write up of the procedure.
<a href="http://forums.rennlist.com/cgi-bin/rennforums/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic&f=15&t=013373&p=" target="_blank">Clutch Bleeding Made Easy</a>

If you have any problems post back here.
Good luck!

*Michael.*

I just did mine a few weeks ago. I wish I would have had the power bleeder! I am taking on my oil cooler seals and front wheel bearings this weekend

Pilot Dave

Not a tough job. I did it in the parking garage at work (that's where the slave failed). Both slave and master should take about 2 hours, and I suggest you do em both at the same time.

If the master is leaking then you probably have brake fluid on the floor under your clutch pedal. Clean it up.

To change the slave you need to drop the starter (4 bolts and it's off).