Raceit

Running fine and then the car lost all power, went to about a 500rpm idle and then died after the check engine light came on. It then took a few times to get it started. Then it idled poor again until I shut it off. Let it sit for a few seconds and fired it up again and then limped into a nearby parking lot. From there I popped the hood and quickly checked all electrical connections which seemed fine. Then it was fine for the 1 mile trek back home, like nothing ever happened.

And this is almost exactly what happened to me shortly before I replaced my O2 sensor. I replaced that about 4 weeks ago and since then I haven't had a lick of trouble. I did the 13913 O2 sensor and crimped the wires with butt connectors. I have yet to check the sensor or connections, but it's weird that my car drove home fine.

Do I have something else going on here? DME?

Sami951

Doesn't that Check Engine -light only come on if there's something wrong with the emissions stuff? So most probably the O2 (again)..? I dunno, my car doesn't even have such things <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="wink.gif" />

MHT

cut out the butt conectors and solder those joints, the signal from the O2 sensor is very low voltage and any corrosion in the connections will have a significant effect on the reading. I doubt that the O2 sensor is responsible for your running problem though, it allows the ecu to trim the mixture but coolant temp and load are the main inputs as far as injector pulse width are concerned. If the problem happens again you could disconnect the sensor and see if it goes away, that would at least eliminate the sensor as the cause. Mark

Raceit

I think you guys are right. I'll redo the connections on the O2 sensor and take it from there. Thanks for your input!