Tom R.

I want to fix the spot of cancer on the bottom of the fender of my S2.

it is on the bottom, where the wheel kicks up stones. there is paint on the outside - the rough gravel paint, but nothing in back of it. it is maybe two or three square inches.

What i want to do - cut and grind the old stuff off, and put something in back to lay a little bondo on and then re spray the gravel, and spray the rocker with new paint. being so low, and textured, i dont think a shade off will look too bad. Plus i can get a decal to go on the bottom of the door to break the visual of mis color.

so, without welding tools, how do i go about putting something for the bondo to grab on?

thanks.

xsboost90

www.por15.com

other than welding this up or replacing the fender, you may be able to contact these guys- cut the rust out- treat it w/ por15 and basically fiberglass the piece back together and coat w/ this stuff- gets hard as a rock and locks rust out.

Calmchaos

por15 is BEAST

CarbonRevo

why have a nice, low miles s2 and then cheap out on fixing it the right way? Do it once, do it right.

Tom R.

because im tired of paying people to do work. i had friends in NY that did quality work at reasonable prices. now i am a sitting duck.

i want to fix it right myself. i dont want to learn to weld on this car, and figure a few square inches of rust is a good amateur project. if i screw it up bad, i can take it to a body shop and they can cut out what i put in and do it right. the cost to the car would be a quarter inch more or metal.

gotta start somewhere. i want to cut out the bad and get a piece of metal to put in back, then fill/blend with some bondo, spray the gravel paint on, then spray the rockers.

how would you do it to do it right?

J Berk

Not that I would do this on my 944 Tom, but I did extensive body work on a volvo when I was in high school...my backup tin was aluminum sheet installled with aluminum rivits. I would create a tab into which I'd fit the aluminum. Rivits went in the tab and then I'd pop some holes in the aluminum panel and coat with duro easy-glass to build up any thickness...and finish off with surface putty/bondo.

After being painted, I drove that car for 4 years before selling it back to the uncle I bought it from, who traded it to his handyman for work done in his kitchen. Years later it was still running around Westchester looking as good as the day it was painted.

951and944S

Tom, I probably have a good bottom of a fender I could cut and send you....if you did the grinding prep work, I'm sure you could get a body shop to mig weld the piece in place (think weld filled pre-drilled holes in replacement section).

Anyways....other than that, buy a small sheet of similar gauge metal at a hardware store, trim and bend accordingly to fit the inside of the fender lip and also 90 degrees into the area that faces out where the spray on chip guard is - scrape (don't grind) away existing chip guard on entire fender lower - drill some shallow divots into existing fender - use small fluted head screws to affix the new sheet metal backing panel (coat with acid etch primer - AZ has it in the rattle can).

Grind flat as much, if any protrusion left of the fluted head screw heads as you feel will still safely hold piece in place ( two part body related epoxy called 40/40 between the pieces won't hurt either).

The new coats (2-3) of the spray can chip guard (Car Quest paint store product 'Transtar Chip Tex' or 'Upol Graviguard') will hide any remaining high spots in the screws....

Follow instruction on can.....chip guard needs 80 scratches in metal or primer coat to properly adhere.

Prime, sand, seal (preferably "light gray") for proper match as Guards Red is somewhat translucent and match is fully dependent on sealer base color choice.

In other words, a dark gray sealer will produce a tomato color and light gray will give the proper brilliance.

T

Tom R.

I've been thinking about that today. i think that would probably be the smartest thint.

i need to do both sides. anyone have both for sale?

bearone

the problem not where you see the rust but where you don't and i guarantee there's more than you're seeing.

87951
95sl320 dd