rear suspension
06-02-2003, 03:56 AM
#1
Instructor
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: socal
Posts: 136
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
rear suspension
a few months back a median and my right rear wheel had a altercation. the wheel was bent in half, the stub axle was broken, the caliper holder broke along with the caliper. i've replaced all these parts.now the wheel is slightly turned inward toward the left front wheel. i'm assuming this problem is because the trailing arm is bent. now before i go and just replace the trailing arm is there anything else i should be worried about? the car drives fine. everything seems to be functional but the wheel is just kinda crooked. i was considering while replacing the trailing arm i might as well lower my car with 200lb springs in front and using the eccentrics to lower the rear. i would also like to do a little camber adjustment in the front and rear. i might even get into replacing the sway bar bushings. what's everyone's advice on this project?
06-02-2003, 01:35 PM
#2
Three Wheelin'
Probably a bent trailing arm, but I would have a frame shop measure your car and make sure the unibody is straight before I went any further. Then assumming that it is a bent trailing arm, I would have a new (probably used) arm installed.
If you are thinking stiffer front springs, now would be the time to swap out rear torsion bars & upgrade to match. It would be most cost effective to do trailing arm, torsion bars and front springs at once, then have the car lowered/levelled and a full alignment. Get any other suspension work desired out of the way before the alignment.
If you are thinking stiffer front springs, now would be the time to swap out rear torsion bars & upgrade to match. It would be most cost effective to do trailing arm, torsion bars and front springs at once, then have the car lowered/levelled and a full alignment. Get any other suspension work desired out of the way before the alignment.
06-02-2003, 01:42 PM
#3
Nordschleife Master
I agree with Don, the waterguy... <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="wink.gif" />
Definetely have the car checked out and make sure the chassis is straight.
FYI the massive toe in you have on that tire now will demolish the tire in no time.
Definetely have the car checked out and make sure the chassis is straight.
FYI the massive toe in you have on that tire now will demolish the tire in no time.
06-02-2003, 05:54 PM
#4
Instructor
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: socal
Posts: 136
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
thanks for the info. i was thinking 200lb springs would be perfect without messing with the torsion bars. some guys are running 250lb springs with stock torsion bars. what size sways should i get? i was thinking turbo sways would be a nice upgrade.
06-02-2003, 06:58 PM
#5
Three Wheelin'
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Phoenix, AZ
Posts: 1,354
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
If you feel like dropping $400, get the Porsche 944.343.706.30 30mm front and 944.333.701.01 19mm rear. They're thicker than the Turbo S, and they're hollow, so they're stiff and light.
944racing.com has the lowest price I've seen, but their web server makes a bad day on rennlist look fast.
Of course what do you do with the car? If you race it or autocross, the stiffer bars will help, if you don't you might as well save your money.
944racing.com has the lowest price I've seen, but their web server makes a bad day on rennlist look fast.
Of course what do you do with the car? If you race it or autocross, the stiffer bars will help, if you don't you might as well save your money.