jbob

gearing up for changing out my leaky cam housing gasket, probably the old fashioned way, taking out and replacing the timing belt

i have someone sending the tensioning tool

looked at clarks garage and have a couple of tools that i'm wondering if i will need:

* Flywheel Lock (P9206)
* Balance Shaft Pin Spanner (P9200) or equivalent (if removing the balance shaft sprockets)

parts wise i have are:
Cork Gasket at Cam Tower Rear, 924S/944
Timing Belt Cambelt, 924S, 944, 944 Turbo
Camshaft Housing Gasket, 924S 1987-88, 944 1983-88, 944 Turbo 1986-88, Each

anything else i should have on hand?

Spidey944

if you dont have any history on the car, the rollers, and tensioner stud may be good place to start, along with water pump. Also a good time to check the lifters and see if you have any that are collapsed, etc.

Also a great time to get rid of the green coolant that's prob in it and switch over to the AUDI/VW pink stuff. Just because. But it's not necc. as everyone has thier opinions on a/f choices.

John_AZ

Do you have the long-6 or 8 inch 6mm cam tower allen wrench? They did put one in the OEM tool kit. If you buy one do not go cheap.
Wake up the cam tower bolts-see Clarks-Garage for tutoral if needed
Cam bolts do not have to be replaced-some feel its necessary-your choice.
SLOWLY lift cam housing and tilt away from block to prevent lifters from falling out.
A bunch of rags on top of the manifold to catch the pint of oil that will fall.

Now you can do the lifter check and cross your fingers none have collapsed as mentioned.

Before startup, I put a pint of oil into the cam housing via the cam bolt case plugs to help build oil pressure and extra lubrication for the lifters.

Good luck,

John_AZ
1988 924S + 1987 924S

Darwantae951

If you're looking for the tools then check www.arnnworx.com. He makes an entire belt changing kit. Affordable and great tools. I've used them on my car twice and two friends cars.

schwank

Actually Jonathan, the box I'm sending you contains all of the tools. Spanner wrench, offset wrench, flywheel lock, and the belt tensioner gauge. It's the kit that Darwin linked above.

Get a plastic paint scraper and some razor blades in case your gasket is fossilized like some I've seen. Even though you don't plan on taking the cam tower apart up front, it's probably good to order the seals for the front end anyway. They are cheap and if you find they are leaking it is good to have them. How about the distributor cap and rotor?

I should probably include the tool I made for the cam tower bolts as well.... it's a 1/4" drive deep socket with the appropriate allen key epoxied in. It's short enough that the torque values should be accurate when you reassemble.

Are you doing the water pump? I would if you have no history on it being done. Belt rollers are definitely a good idea in that case as well. There are always 'while you're in there' things like this... but it's not that fun a job where it is worth doing it right the first time.

jbob

i just gotta say thanks for the help, i really appreciate it, my folks live in new zealand, and i feel like im on an island here..

the history - is good. H2o pump was done in '06, timing belt is about 3 yrs old, but am replacing.

those are great tips. if im away from internet at my friends, should i just go on clarks and grab a bunch of the operation pdf and have em handy on my laptop.

also, Ralf at gerbers offered some advice about dirko on the seal, red grease for keep the lifters in place, and also mentioned the razor blade to clean things.

could anyone link to the part for the front seals on pelican? i also have a new dist. cap and new plugs to throw in.

also, are there any DO NOT's i should be especially aware of? also, what is the best way to keep track of where bolts and parts were taken off of and where they go back onto.

if i can get through this and learn from it, it will make future ownership of these cars even more of a possibility.

jwade944

Good advice on the grease. Put some on the lifters to help hold them in the cam housing when you put it back on. Also helps hold the bolts onto the allen wrench when you are inserting them into the housing. Get 8 ziplock bags and number them before you start. This will help you keep the lifters in order. Raise the driver side of the car as high as you can (within reason.) This will help you put it back together without dropping all the lifters. There are two bolts from the rear belt cover that go into the front of the cam housing. Don't forget to remove them. Consider replacing the o-rings on the fuel injectors while you have them off the car. Vacuum all the crap off of the top of the engine before you open it up. Disconnect the battery and lock the crank at TDC before you start. When you put the housing back on, make sure the cam mark is at TDC. (It will move a little as you bolt it down.) If you are going to use a razor blade, be very careful - aluminum gouges easily. Access to the bolts is a pain - especially near the rear. The ones inside the housing are straightforward, but the ones above the exhaust manifold can be difficult to reach. It sounds like you are thinking ahead, so take your time and enjoy!

Wipeout

I think I know what car he's referring to...

My gasket was fossilized on there real good. Took us two days to get it all scraped off.