Myrtle 944

I'm new to the 944 world as I've been an MG guy for years. Have a very nice 86 944 na and have a front end question. The car is very loose and pulls one side to the next, but not all the time. Uneven roads and pot holes / bumps send it left or right. Have a new power steering rack and front end just aligned. Tire shop can't figure it out. Tie rods seem ok? Any advice would be appreciated.

SoCal Driver

I'm surprised that a front end shop can't figure this out. The strut design has been around for many years.

IF the wearables are tight; bushings, tie rod ends, ball joints, shock/strut, top strut bushings and the steering link between the rack and the steering column; it's all adjustment. See if they used the right charts.

The ball joints in the aluminum a-arms have a propensity to wear out with out much outside indication. If the rubber covers are cracked most likely the plastic bushings inside are dry and have or are failing.

Seen a thread or add for replacement ball joint bushings made from a hard whitish nylon. Do think these need to be made from a filled or gray nylon. Anyway for $75 it is an inexpensive means of extending the life of an aluminum a-arm.

Most of the other bushings can be checked directly with the exception of the strut top bushing.

PS: When was the last time the timing belt was replaced? Figure 30,000 miles or two years. The "untimely" breaking of the timing belt adds over $1200 to the cost of yearly maintenance.

Joel

Have an alignment shop check the alignment specs on your car to what the factory recommended specs say. If your car was lowered and you have more than stock negative camber in the front the car will tend to "bump steer", ie; it will follow every bump and low spot in the road.

My 83 handles like that because it is lowered and I have a compromise alignment setting for use on the track.

Myrtle 944

I think I need to find a better shop! The rotors are badly scored and will be replaced but did not think that would cause it. Thought there may be someting inherent to 944's as a common problem. It's all a great, albeit, expensive process. Tring to avoid "trial and error" method! lol..

Tadi

[quote]Originally posted by Joel:
<strong>Have an alignment shop check the alignment specs on your car to what the factory recommended specs say. If your car was lowered and you have more than stock negative camber in the front the car will tend to "bump steer", ie; it will follow every bump and low spot in the road.

My 83 handles like that because it is lowered and I have a compromise alignment setting for use on the track.</strong><hr></blockquote>

Won't big fat tires cause this too (the bump steer)? I think its referred to as 'Tramlining". What size tires are you running MS944?

Tabor

Big fat tyres can cause what you are describing. Being slightly toed out can also cause it. Worn ball joints/tie rods will make it worse.

Barry Lenoble

[quote]Originally posted by MS944:
<strong>Tire shop can't figure it out. Tie rods seem ok? Any advice would be appreciated.</strong><hr></blockquote>

Hello,

If your tie rods are indeed good (and so are the
control arms and bushings, etc.) then you need
to change your alignment.

Try going to a little toe in at the front, 0
toe in the rear, and a real small amount of
negative chamber front and rear.

Make sure the car is at stock ride height, and
it should track straight and true.

What size wheels and tires do you have?

Barry

Myrtle 944

I have stock size tires on it. Just took to a better shop and was told the struts / springs were wore down to nothing. No oil in struts?? Wanted $657 to do it with Borge struts. That seems really high! Would that account for it. Also said the bearings in the front wheels needed tightning. You can do that? Thought you either replaced or repaced them. Thanks for everyones respones too!

Joel

Loose wheel bearings are not good! That will cause some slop. Although alignment numbers can be debated as much as oil I was told that our cars should have at least 1/16th inch of toe in the rear. I'd get the wheel bearings replaced pronto as you don't want something to let go while you're driving.

Re: Struts and shocks

If you have any mechanical ability you can change the rear shocks yourself. It's fairly easy. The front struts are a little trickier. You can buy Boge inserts and have a shop do the work if you don't want to mess around with the front end.

Peckster

[quote]Originally posted by MS944:
<strong> That seems really high!
</strong><hr></blockquote>

hehehe

Welcome to the club. Actually, this forum is more of a support group. Are you an e-bayer?