Bay Area- Summer Wrenching
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Bay Area- Summer Wrenching
Well, I've been putting off doing the front of engine service on my 87 924S because of school and other obligations, but now I have some free time until summer school starts up. I'd like this to be done before that starts. Possibly replacing the clutch as well.
I'm tired of looking at the car and not being able to drive it. Anybody feel like helping a guy out? If someone is willing to lend out the tools and maybe share some of their knowledge, that would be awesome. I'm in Vallejo, and wouldn't be able to tow the car, but be more than willing to drive ~50 miles or so to borrow tools. Thanks for reading this!
I'm tired of looking at the car and not being able to drive it. Anybody feel like helping a guy out? If someone is willing to lend out the tools and maybe share some of their knowledge, that would be awesome. I'm in Vallejo, and wouldn't be able to tow the car, but be more than willing to drive ~50 miles or so to borrow tools. Thanks for reading this!
#2
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I have the timing belt tools (27mm offset wrench, BS pin wrench, flywheel lock, kricket). You can borrow them any time if I'm not using them. If I had a tranny jack I'd offer that to you as well, but I don't. I'll be home again (San Francisco) in 2 weeks so if you don't get the tools before then you can send me a PM.
#3
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I'm Berkeley and can offer tools -- but not much in terms of time (going to be a very busy summer...). I keep a 951S in storage over on Mare Island and drive up to Davis alot, so I'm pass thru your neighbor quite often.
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There's a car club that rents one of the warehouses on the former Naval Base -- there's a bunch of different kind of guys who rents spaces in there (a model T restoration guy with a lift, a NASCAR guy, a jaguar guy, etc, etc...). Nice storage space where the landlord doesn't mind you wrenching in there -- and has air for your tools. There's also 928 shop somewhere in there (www.928developments.com), but I've never met the guys who run it.
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#11
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So far...
I've gotten everything out down to the water pump, which took a bit of time to get out. Didn't strip anything (that I know so far at least), thank god.
In the clarks garage guide, it says to reuse the thermostat snap ring, but when I took mine out, it was so rusted through I just used a screwdriver to pry it out. So now I have to look for a new one...
Been taking some pictures throughout, so I think I'll be posting them in a bit.
Anybody have tips for changing seals/gaskets, and just putting things back together?
In the clarks garage guide, it says to reuse the thermostat snap ring, but when I took mine out, it was so rusted through I just used a screwdriver to pry it out. So now I have to look for a new one...
Been taking some pictures throughout, so I think I'll be posting them in a bit.
Anybody have tips for changing seals/gaskets, and just putting things back together?
#12
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Gosh darn snap ring
So, no one around here (auto stores) has the snap ring for the thermostat. Would anyone local happen to have one laying around? Next day from paragon products will run be about $50. (WTF?)
#13
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Well a used snap ring would probably be OK but I would rather get a new one.
For getting seals out, I just use a flat head screwdriver. Works like a charm and doesn't damage anything (if you're careful). Just remember that when using the screwdriver, you want all your force to go to the seal, and to bend/deform the seal is alright if it helps. But to nick/gouge any other metal is bad.
For getting out the crank seal, a screwdriver never works for me. What I do is drill 2 little holes on either side, then screw in some drywall screws. The screws bottom out, then they start pulling the seal out - it's a piece of cake. Maybe 1 hole would be enough.
Don't forget to clean off all the old gasket material from the block. All the gunk and junk cleaned off and maybe lightly sanded with 320 grit paper. Use brand new water pump bolts, with antisieze on them. Get an actual inch-pounds torque wrench so you can set the water pump bolts to the right torque of 84 in-lb (7 ft-lb). Oh yeah and good luck!
For getting seals out, I just use a flat head screwdriver. Works like a charm and doesn't damage anything (if you're careful). Just remember that when using the screwdriver, you want all your force to go to the seal, and to bend/deform the seal is alright if it helps. But to nick/gouge any other metal is bad.
For getting out the crank seal, a screwdriver never works for me. What I do is drill 2 little holes on either side, then screw in some drywall screws. The screws bottom out, then they start pulling the seal out - it's a piece of cake. Maybe 1 hole would be enough.
Don't forget to clean off all the old gasket material from the block. All the gunk and junk cleaned off and maybe lightly sanded with 320 grit paper. Use brand new water pump bolts, with antisieze on them. Get an actual inch-pounds torque wrench so you can set the water pump bolts to the right torque of 84 in-lb (7 ft-lb). Oh yeah and good luck!
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Thanks for the tips! Seems I'm going to be waiting for the snap ring to get here...ordered from autohaus. Also picking up new sway bar bushings, oil drain plug and gasket, fuel filter; some smaller things. Thinking about plunking down some cash for a new coolant expansion tank and motor mounts soon.
In the meantime, anybody have the oil cooler alignment tool? And even so, how necessary is it? Ways to get around it?
In the meantime, anybody have the oil cooler alignment tool? And even so, how necessary is it? Ways to get around it?
#15
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I've only done the oil cooler job once, but I never needed the alignment tool - I got away with using the oil pressure rod thingy as my alignment tool. Hopefully someone with more experience on that will add their thoughts.