Accident -- Bent frame... UPDATE: Got an estimate!
05-31-2003, 06:49 PM
#17
Nordschleife Master
Thread Starter
</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">Originally posted by PrerYDoG:
<strong>Adrial - When my car was rear ended (I was at a dead stop, she was doing 45MPH), it buckled the rear quarters, popped the sunroof (crease there) made it so the doors wouldn't open/shut (unless you REALLY put pressure on) and pushed the rear bumper so that it was rubbing the rear tires...
I was going to fix it, but ended up selling it to a guy who works at a body shop. He, without much effort, fixed it up and didn't have to touch the frame, said the frame was fine. I'm telling you, these cars can take one HELL of a hit and still be okay. I wouldn't freak out yet.</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">Thank you...that gives me some hope!
Andy, only for driving in the rain
The tires were fine in the dry...good enough for autocross and DE anyway.
89magic98, I was heading north...past readers digest...I imagine 5-10 mins before Mount kisco..about 20 mins from the end of the saw mill where it merges with 684.
<strong>Adrial - When my car was rear ended (I was at a dead stop, she was doing 45MPH), it buckled the rear quarters, popped the sunroof (crease there) made it so the doors wouldn't open/shut (unless you REALLY put pressure on) and pushed the rear bumper so that it was rubbing the rear tires...
I was going to fix it, but ended up selling it to a guy who works at a body shop. He, without much effort, fixed it up and didn't have to touch the frame, said the frame was fine. I'm telling you, these cars can take one HELL of a hit and still be okay. I wouldn't freak out yet.</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">Thank you...that gives me some hope!
Andy, only for driving in the rain
The tires were fine in the dry...good enough for autocross and DE anyway. 89magic98, I was heading north...past readers digest...I imagine 5-10 mins before Mount kisco..about 20 mins from the end of the saw mill where it merges with 684.
05-31-2003, 06:51 PM
#18
Pro
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Montgomery, AL
Posts: 617
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">Originally posted by adrial:
<strong>Scott, thanks...at least I have something to go off of...</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">If it's $3200+ in damage they might tell you to total the car..... and you'll pay in premiums.
<strong>Scott, thanks...at least I have something to go off of...</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">If it's $3200+ in damage they might tell you to total the car..... and you'll pay in premiums.
05-31-2003, 06:53 PM
#19
Nordschleife Master
Thread Starter
qoncept944, I bought the car for $15k and I believe it is valued right around there by the Excellence value guide...
I believe its more than 2/3 the value of the car will total...so I think I've got more than $3200 to play with...
I believe its more than 2/3 the value of the car will total...so I think I've got more than $3200 to play with...
05-31-2003, 07:56 PM
#22
Drifting
</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">Originally posted by PrerYDoG:
<strong>Adrial - When my car was rear ended (I was at a dead stop, she was doing 45MPH), it buckled the rear quarters, popped the sunroof (crease there) made it so the doors wouldn't open/shut (unless you REALLY put pressure on) and pushed the rear bumper so that it was rubbing the rear tires...
I was going to fix it, but ended up selling it to a guy who works at a body shop. He, without much effort, fixed it up and didn't have to touch the frame, said the frame was fine. I'm telling you, these cars can take one HELL of a hit and still be okay. I wouldn't freak out yet.</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">Adrial, he's right these cars can take the ABUSE. In Canada they raced the 944s in the Rothmans Porsche Cup from 1986 to 1988, If you thaught there is a lot of "rubbing" that goes on in the British Touring Car Series or NASCAR you need to see the videos of the races. A car get litterly totaled at one race but show up 2 weeks later to win the next race. That series help to launch careers for Paul Tracy, Richard Spinard and Ron Fellows. Many of the cars are still raced and enjoyed after some major ABUSE in the series. Sorry for the rant ... .
My point is, they are quite strong and can be repaired to be competitive for DE and/or autocrossing.
<strong>Adrial - When my car was rear ended (I was at a dead stop, she was doing 45MPH), it buckled the rear quarters, popped the sunroof (crease there) made it so the doors wouldn't open/shut (unless you REALLY put pressure on) and pushed the rear bumper so that it was rubbing the rear tires...
I was going to fix it, but ended up selling it to a guy who works at a body shop. He, without much effort, fixed it up and didn't have to touch the frame, said the frame was fine. I'm telling you, these cars can take one HELL of a hit and still be okay. I wouldn't freak out yet.</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">Adrial, he's right these cars can take the ABUSE. In Canada they raced the 944s in the Rothmans Porsche Cup from 1986 to 1988, If you thaught there is a lot of "rubbing" that goes on in the British Touring Car Series or NASCAR you need to see the videos of the races. A car get litterly totaled at one race but show up 2 weeks later to win the next race. That series help to launch careers for Paul Tracy, Richard Spinard and Ron Fellows. Many of the cars are still raced and enjoyed after some major ABUSE in the series. Sorry for the rant ... .
My point is, they are quite strong and can be repaired to be competitive for DE and/or autocrossing.
05-31-2003, 08:39 PM
#24
Drifting
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Espoo, Finland
Posts: 2,668
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Ow... I feel for you! Hope everything works out, just make sure you don't end up with a car that's not straight - even if that means totalling it <img border="0" title="" alt="[Frown]" src="frown.gif" />
05-31-2003, 08:45 PM
#25
Burning Brakes
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: San Francisco Bay Area
Posts: 1,199
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes
on
1 Post
Man, you just made my decision, I'm replacing my worn fronts asap! Especially because it's been raining a lot here in the northeast. I'm happy to hear your insurace will cover that accident, good thing!
05-31-2003, 09:02 PM
#26
Racer
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Guttenberg, NJ
Posts: 361
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Yeah that wasn't fun 
I'm glad were ok.. it could have been much worse. We slid against the concrete barrier for about 30 feet backwards. Good thing there was a break in the flow of cars.
Lesson learned, don't skimp on safety items like tires.
I'm glad were ok.. it could have been much worse. We slid against the concrete barrier for about 30 feet backwards. Good thing there was a break in the flow of cars.
Lesson learned, don't skimp on safety items like tires.
05-31-2003, 09:31 PM
#27
Nordschleife Master
Thread Starter
</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">Originally posted by nh3:
<strong>What frame? Somebody correct me if I'm wrong but last I looked these cars are unibody design, frameless.</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">I'm kind of thinking it as an "outer frame" being the body that we see...and the "inner frame" which is what you see when you cut away the rear quarter panels...
I dont know if this is correct or not, but I'm fearing the inner frame is bent...which in my mind has much more structural significance.
<strong>What frame? Somebody correct me if I'm wrong but last I looked these cars are unibody design, frameless.</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">I'm kind of thinking it as an "outer frame" being the body that we see...and the "inner frame" which is what you see when you cut away the rear quarter panels...
I dont know if this is correct or not, but I'm fearing the inner frame is bent...which in my mind has much more structural significance.
05-31-2003, 09:44 PM
#28
Burning Brakes
</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">Originally posted by nh3:
<strong>What frame? Somebody correct me if I'm wrong but last I looked these cars are unibody design, frameless.</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">no chassis, it's true...but if you took all of the removable parts off the car - what's left...most would call a frame
<strong>What frame? Somebody correct me if I'm wrong but last I looked these cars are unibody design, frameless.</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">no chassis, it's true...but if you took all of the removable parts off the car - what's left...most would call a frame
05-31-2003, 11:17 PM
#30
Nordschleife Master
Thread Starter
Triscadek,
I mentioned that the passanger door needed to be raised a bit to get it to latch smoothly...I assume I should measure the door gap with the doors closed?
If I dont lift it up it closes the same way it would if the car were on jack stands...
The hatch doesn't open as easily as it used to either..
But what exactly should I measured with regard to how the hatch lines up?
Thanks for the help and support everybody!
EDIT:
Here are some pictures...in looking at the car more I noticed a raised area on the driver side of the car by the sunroof. (Impact was on the passanger side).
<a href="http://www.eden.rutgers.edu/~adrialk/accident" target="_blank">http://www.eden.rutgers.edu/~adrialk/accident</a>
I mentioned that the passanger door needed to be raised a bit to get it to latch smoothly...I assume I should measure the door gap with the doors closed?
If I dont lift it up it closes the same way it would if the car were on jack stands...
The hatch doesn't open as easily as it used to either..
But what exactly should I measured with regard to how the hatch lines up?
Thanks for the help and support everybody!
EDIT:
Here are some pictures...in looking at the car more I noticed a raised area on the driver side of the car by the sunroof. (Impact was on the passanger side).
<a href="http://www.eden.rutgers.edu/~adrialk/accident" target="_blank">http://www.eden.rutgers.edu/~adrialk/accident</a>