A/C conversion to R-134
#16
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I was just thinking about this today. My '83 944 is now on the road, and when I tested the AC today, it didn't blow that cold. Then again, it was only about 65F here, so I couldn't tell for sure. Still, I'm sure the AC needs some help, because the car sat for a couple of years before I bought it.
Should I presume my AC is R12? How would I know otherwise? And, if I've read this thread right, I'd be happier with R12's performance, or be happier with R134's price.
Should I presume my AC is R12? How would I know otherwise? And, if I've read this thread right, I'd be happier with R12's performance, or be happier with R134's price.
#17
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I've decided to go get it evacuated, and checked for leaks. If I'm comfortable its not leaking, I'll go with R-12. Its what our systems were designed for, and will work the best on hot days in the desert. My local shop wants to charge 90 bucks a pound for R-12. The system holds a little over 2 lbs, minus oil (and stop leak lol) so for 180 bucks, and a 1/2 hour shop time, I think its a good deal.
http://tinyurl.com/4hwq9c
You will need an EPA license to buy R-12, but it's very easy to get:
http://www.epatest.com/
Then you need the system evacuated, and a can tap and optionally some gauges, and you're ready to start charging. Of course this assumes there are no leaks -- I would recommend a leak test if you're low on refrigerant.
Charging the A/C was surprisingly easy for me.
#18
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Hey, I think I can help you with some of the used AC equipment. I am in Victorville and just had (still having due to some problems) my AC worked on. I have a box of equipment (no compressor) that I would be happy to sell you. I was about to ebay the stuff but happy to sell it to you and I will be out in Vegas soon so email me if your interested.
What shop in Vegas is doing the work, I only know of one good Porsche shop in Vegas right now?
What shop in Vegas is doing the work, I only know of one good Porsche shop in Vegas right now?
#19
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Originally Posted by m73m95
PS.... I would still like to know more about the dry nitrogen test. If anyone knows about this
For dry nitrogen testing, you need to get ahold of a bottle of compressed nitrogen. I bought one (40cubic feet I think) at AirGas for about $85. Then you'll need a regulator to regulate it down. I actually bought a fitting to adapt the nitrogen bottle to the oxygen regulator I have for my cutting torch. The max I can regulate with it is 100psi but I think that is good enough. You can then connect the output of the regulator to your manifold guage set. Fill it up to 100 psi and let it sit overnight. If the temperature of everything is stable you should see no loss in PSI. This method is much better than vacuum tests because full vacuum is only equivalent to about 14 psi and is the reverse direction of what the system will be operating under. Also, if there is any remaining refrigerant disolved in the oil it will slowly boil out under the vacuum and you may get a false positive for leak detection. Therefore vacuum testing for leaks is pretty worthless.
Another benefit of having a nitrogen setup is that you can purge your system with the dry nitrogen when vacuuming the system prior to charge. What I usually do is vacuum the system, fill with dry nitrogen, then vacuum again. This reduces the likelyhood of having leftover moisture.
Originally Posted by m73m95
The system is low enough for me to have to jump the terminals on the pressure switch to get the compressor to turn on, But when I had a mechanic put the gauges on it, he said there was still some freon in it.....maybe 1/2lb.
Originally Posted by marky522
Originally Posted by dacula951
How was it determined that there's 1/2 pound in there by pressure checking? The pressure will be the same if there's 2 lbs. of liquid refrigerant in there or a fraction of an ounce. The pressure will only go down when enough has leaked out to the point where all the liquid is gone.
One of the best ways to reduce leakage is to use the air periodically. I try to turn mine on a little every time I drive it (weekend car).
One of the best ways to reduce leakage is to use the air periodically. I try to turn mine on a little every time I drive it (weekend car).
#21
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That is one downside but it works great for those of us that do their own AC work. If you had to rely on shops to fix your AC on a 944 everyone would be running R-134 and swearing at the top of their lungs every time you got stuck in slow traffic and were sweating your *** off because it works so poorly when air flow is limited across the condenser. I have mostly older cars and the Freeze 12 has been a great substitute for R-12. I still use R-12 on the 951's though, I get it from Mexico, if I know the system is tight. The oils are compatible also so you can always evacuate the system first if you had to go to a commercial shop.
#22
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Steve... From my little bit of experience I have found R-134 performance to be disappointing at least in my 944. And in doing some reading I saw your nearly same post over with 928 guys - that had me leaning your way (toward Freeze-12). But, one informed gent there had a good argument in that Freeze-12 is really R-134 with some small additives. This makes me think there is maybe not much difference. So, for the moment Freeze-12 is back to being option 3 after R-12 and R-134.
A quick look to EBay and it seems R-12 is about $25 a pound. Affordable but only into a system that will hold it for say, a year.
So now I read Johns post above about first testing with nitrogen. Probably a good path for me. Before I run off to spend more money, I'm wondering though if I couldn't use some thing a bit more available like LP or even welder gas. Just thinking.... Bruce
A quick look to EBay and it seems R-12 is about $25 a pound. Affordable but only into a system that will hold it for say, a year.
So now I read Johns post above about first testing with nitrogen. Probably a good path for me. Before I run off to spend more money, I'm wondering though if I couldn't use some thing a bit more available like LP or even welder gas. Just thinking.... Bruce
#23
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Originally Posted by F18Rep
So now I read Johns post above about first testing with nitrogen. Probably a good path for me. Before I run off to spend more money, I'm wondering though if I couldn't use some thing a bit more available like LP or even welder gas. Just thinking.... Bruce