ICESHARK - My H4 is cracked!
#1
ICESHARK - My H4 is cracked!
Ice, Just noticed last night that one of the housings I bought from you has cracked. The headlight still lights up properly as far as
I can tell. This crack is completely across the headlight, the glass is slightly displaced, meaing not smooth to the tought - there is an edge. I've got to get a new one. Do you have replacements? Will one I buy from Paragon or other be the same as what I bought from you earlier and compatible with the bulb I bought from you? Please advise.
I can tell. This crack is completely across the headlight, the glass is slightly displaced, meaing not smooth to the tought - there is an edge. I've got to get a new one. Do you have replacements? Will one I buy from Paragon or other be the same as what I bought from you earlier and compatible with the bulb I bought from you? Please advise.
#2
Dan, Sorry to hear this. You must have had a rock or something large hit you. Do you recall getting smacked?
First off, the lens will keep working, in a fashion, so there is no crisis. I'm getting a bunch of new lenses any time now so if you can wait a bit then you can get an exact replacement. If you can't wait a bit, other lenses from Paragon will work, this is not like tires on the same axle. They won't have Cibies, try and get an Hella Super E-Code. This is different than the normal Hella E-Code and the USA Hella part number is 95098. I know there are a few for sale in North America, though there might be some reluctance to sell just one and break up a pair.
I would also like to take a look at the lens just for kicks as you are the first to ever break one. Something big hit you. If you can take a close up picture that would be good, or just send it back to me in the box I ship your replacement lens in. I'll pay for the return shipping.
First off, the lens will keep working, in a fashion, so there is no crisis. I'm getting a bunch of new lenses any time now so if you can wait a bit then you can get an exact replacement. If you can't wait a bit, other lenses from Paragon will work, this is not like tires on the same axle. They won't have Cibies, try and get an Hella Super E-Code. This is different than the normal Hella E-Code and the USA Hella part number is 95098. I know there are a few for sale in North America, though there might be some reluctance to sell just one and break up a pair.
I would also like to take a look at the lens just for kicks as you are the first to ever break one. Something big hit you. If you can take a close up picture that would be good, or just send it back to me in the box I ship your replacement lens in. I'll pay for the return shipping.
#3
Iceshark! I'll be switching to H4's soon. Seeing how you treat your customers, i'd be intrested in getting a qoute on those Hella Super E's. Quote with shipping to Charlotte NC. Thanks <img src="graemlins/wave.gif" border="0" alt="[byebye]" />
#4
I've had H4's in my 83 944 for 18 years and besides a minor sandblasting, these are the only headlights I'll run even at the "lower" wattages.
Just wish I had the bucks to go the IceShark way!
Just wish I had the bucks to go the IceShark way!
#5
itsme2,
To date I've just been selling the Cibie lenses. But due to the long delays in getting these lenses out of Valeo (the parent company) in France, I'm searching out alternatives that are at a similar level of performance. Some of you Rennlisters sent in deposits at the tail end of June .... I've got to do something to resolve this nightmare on lens delivery.
The Hella Super is probably what I will go with at this point and I am working on sourcing. The Hella Super and Cibie are the same ballpark performers.
I sell the Cibies for $90 a pair, without bulbs. Add another $20 to $24 bucks per pair for high performance or overwatted H4 bulbs from a first rate German manufacturing plant (Phillips/Narva or Osram/Sylvania). You can get some regular H4s for $5 a pair, but that sort of defeats the purpose of going ***** to the wall killer lighting.
The Hella Supers are going to be more expensive, $100+ for the pair, without bulbs. How much over depends on what sort of supply I can arrange. It looks like they will be coming out of Europe so this will take a few weeks to sort out.
Just plan on spending something under $150 and start on salting the spare change away.
To date I've just been selling the Cibie lenses. But due to the long delays in getting these lenses out of Valeo (the parent company) in France, I'm searching out alternatives that are at a similar level of performance. Some of you Rennlisters sent in deposits at the tail end of June .... I've got to do something to resolve this nightmare on lens delivery.
The Hella Super is probably what I will go with at this point and I am working on sourcing. The Hella Super and Cibie are the same ballpark performers.
I sell the Cibies for $90 a pair, without bulbs. Add another $20 to $24 bucks per pair for high performance or overwatted H4 bulbs from a first rate German manufacturing plant (Phillips/Narva or Osram/Sylvania). You can get some regular H4s for $5 a pair, but that sort of defeats the purpose of going ***** to the wall killer lighting.
The Hella Supers are going to be more expensive, $100+ for the pair, without bulbs. How much over depends on what sort of supply I can arrange. It looks like they will be coming out of Europe so this will take a few weeks to sort out.
Just plan on spending something under $150 and start on salting the spare change away.
#6
SoCal,
I started running E-Code in '81 when I got back from my sailboat adventure. They really are the best.
The sand blasting, especially over two decades, makes a huge difference in the lens performance. Light scatters everyway other than where you want it to go. You might want to compare to a new lens. <img src="graemlins/beerchug.gif" border="0" alt="[cheers]" />
I started running E-Code in '81 when I got back from my sailboat adventure. They really are the best.
The sand blasting, especially over two decades, makes a huge difference in the lens performance. Light scatters everyway other than where you want it to go. You might want to compare to a new lens. <img src="graemlins/beerchug.gif" border="0" alt="[cheers]" />
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#8
One possibility which causes cracks are over wattage bulbs.This especially happens if there is very cold weather outside.I suppose this is not the reason in Dan's case, since he live in CA.
A friend of mine installed a year ago Hella's into his 951.It took two months and both lenses were broken.He used 100W bulbs...Of course it's little bit colder here during winter than in CA.
A friend of mine installed a year ago Hella's into his 951.It took two months and both lenses were broken.He used 100W bulbs...Of course it's little bit colder here during winter than in CA.
#10
I've seen pics in one of the Many IceShark/Light Cannon threads - they didn't really show anything (cameras can't take those kinds of pictures - er... well, maybe a Really nice one with an expert photographer.. )
If you want to see what an E-code looks like, find ANY import motorcycle from within the last decade and you should be able to see the (very obvious) differences. Even my 'commuter' bike (a Very cheap, VERY low end Yamaha Seca) has them..
<img src="graemlins/beerchug.gif" border="0" alt="[cheers]" />
If you want to see what an E-code looks like, find ANY import motorcycle from within the last decade and you should be able to see the (very obvious) differences. Even my 'commuter' bike (a Very cheap, VERY low end Yamaha Seca) has them..
<img src="graemlins/beerchug.gif" border="0" alt="[cheers]" />
#12
Ice,
Sorry it took me so long to get back to the board. No, I do not remember getting hit by anything - surprising.
But the glass is definitely displaced to the touch completely across the face of the lens clocking from about 11:00 to about 5:00.
I will try to take a picture. I'll shoot the pix with the lights both off and on. Probably won't post or email to you until Monday at the earliest. Yes, I'll wait for you if I can (the light keeps working) -Dan
Sorry it took me so long to get back to the board. No, I do not remember getting hit by anything - surprising.
But the glass is definitely displaced to the touch completely across the face of the lens clocking from about 11:00 to about 5:00.
I will try to take a picture. I'll shoot the pix with the lights both off and on. Probably won't post or email to you until Monday at the earliest. Yes, I'll wait for you if I can (the light keeps working) -Dan
#13
Olli, The Cibies won't crack from the heat or the heat differential of overwatting. This is one of the reasons you spend so much for quality construction. LOL!
I'm in Minnesota and have run them for over 20 years in cars and trucks, no problem. Even when it was so cold that you could **** up in the air and it would freeze before it hit the ground. <img src="graemlins/roflmao.gif" border="0" alt="[hiha]" /> -44 F
Dan, The lenses should be here soon and someone is going to kick Valeo in the nutz at the show in Lost Wages next week. Wait a bit as the cracked lens will still work fairly well in the meantime.
I'm in Minnesota and have run them for over 20 years in cars and trucks, no problem. Even when it was so cold that you could **** up in the air and it would freeze before it hit the ground. <img src="graemlins/roflmao.gif" border="0" alt="[hiha]" /> -44 F
Dan, The lenses should be here soon and someone is going to kick Valeo in the nutz at the show in Lost Wages next week. Wait a bit as the cracked lens will still work fairly well in the meantime.
#15
Jason, it depends.
The 3M stuff I have seen will usually not hang on due to the aforementioned heat if you are running overwatt bulbs. If you are running stock blubs it is a nice idea, especially on the fogs/drivers that are constantly exposed to the road.
Let me take a look at Dan's lens, but I think he got smacked pretty hard and a plastic overlay would not have helped. He likely needed steel mesh protection.
Actually cracking a quality lens (with a convex face to boot) with road debris is fairly rare unless you drive a lot on gravel roads or behind gravel trucks. Road rash, small little pits, is far more common and is where the plastic sheets really do a nice job.
The 3M stuff I have seen will usually not hang on due to the aforementioned heat if you are running overwatt bulbs. If you are running stock blubs it is a nice idea, especially on the fogs/drivers that are constantly exposed to the road.
Let me take a look at Dan's lens, but I think he got smacked pretty hard and a plastic overlay would not have helped. He likely needed steel mesh protection.
Actually cracking a quality lens (with a convex face to boot) with road debris is fairly rare unless you drive a lot on gravel roads or behind gravel trucks. Road rash, small little pits, is far more common and is where the plastic sheets really do a nice job.