Clutch Diagnosis?
05-06-2008, 01:23 AM
#1
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Clutch Diagnosis?
Sometimes my pedal stays on the floor. pull it up with my toe and it functions fine again.
If I hold the pedal down for 5 or 10 seconds it will definitely stay on the floor.
I assume I have a cylinder that needs rebuilding. Is there a way to determine if it is the master or the slave cylinder?
Is it safe to assume this is not an issue that a clutch bleeding would solve? The clutch only has a few thousand miles on it, but is a few years old.
I am aware of the wisdom of rebuilding both cylinders if one is bad.
If I hold the pedal down for 5 or 10 seconds it will definitely stay on the floor.
I assume I have a cylinder that needs rebuilding. Is there a way to determine if it is the master or the slave cylinder?
Is it safe to assume this is not an issue that a clutch bleeding would solve? The clutch only has a few thousand miles on it, but is a few years old.
I am aware of the wisdom of rebuilding both cylinders if one is bad.
05-06-2008, 01:28 AM
#2
Rennlist Member
slave is sticking- usually if the slave is bad the master is not far behind- my advise- buy both new and put them in. Ive rebuilt before and they last a fraction of the time.
05-06-2008, 03:23 AM
#4
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Join Date: Dec 2002
Posts: 4,062
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
05-06-2008, 03:29 AM
#5
Nordschleife Master
Mine went bad about this time last year. However mine quick got worse to the point where it would just stay on the ground and the car had to be towed to a shop where they replaced slave, master, + linking hose that was bad.
05-06-2008, 01:54 PM
#6
Instructor
I had the same problem with mine early this spring. I thought it was the master, but it ended up being the slave. Check to see if your starter is covered in fluid. This probably will indicate the seals have let go on your slave.
Also check to make sure there is no fluid coming out of the master. Any broken seal won't allow the system to pressurize, which is why your pedal won't spring back. Check the lines as well.
Regardless of which one is leaking, replace or rebuild both. The bores on my master and slave were relatively smooth, so I opted to rebuild both of them. I picked up the slave rebuild kit from paragon for around $20 and ordered the master "kit" from advance auto parts for around $35. The "kit" from advance is manufactured by beck arnley. It is just the piston for the master and comes with the seals already installed. All you will need.
Took me about 2 hours to pull parts, another to rebuild and 2 more to put them back in. Clutch works fine now, but I can't attest to the longevity of the rebuild. Hopefully they will last.
Btw, use a power bleeder. I splurged on a motive and love it.
Also check to make sure there is no fluid coming out of the master. Any broken seal won't allow the system to pressurize, which is why your pedal won't spring back. Check the lines as well.
Regardless of which one is leaking, replace or rebuild both. The bores on my master and slave were relatively smooth, so I opted to rebuild both of them. I picked up the slave rebuild kit from paragon for around $20 and ordered the master "kit" from advance auto parts for around $35. The "kit" from advance is manufactured by beck arnley. It is just the piston for the master and comes with the seals already installed. All you will need.
Took me about 2 hours to pull parts, another to rebuild and 2 more to put them back in. Clutch works fine now, but I can't attest to the longevity of the rebuild. Hopefully they will last.
Btw, use a power bleeder. I splurged on a motive and love it.
