Alright, its an N/A, and I've heard the N/A diffs are not as strong as the turbo diffs, but is that only when you put an N/A trans in a turbo car?

I really want to do a burnout but I have been reading posts on here about the pinion exploding, or the splines shearing out of the carrier in these cars, and I'm thinking I don't want to deal with that.

So I'm trying to ask this in the least lame, pu**y way I can ask....Is it ok to do the occasional burnout with the N/A? My car has 225 wide tires (just a little wider than stock) and also the LSD. (would the LSD and wider tires put to much stress on the diff??)

rev to 4k, and slide your foot off the side of the clutch??

Laughing is fine, I have thick skin. (Just don't want to wreck the car I spent 3 months working on)

 

 

sure why not if you enjoy replacing clutches and transmissions.

 

Since you have the lsd, i would advise against it. LSD transmissions are not cheap.

Otherwise, burnout away, regular trans are cheap and easy to find. By cheap i mean 300-500 dollars, which is cheap for a transmission.

The NA ring and pinion is weak , even for the NA power, burnouts will eventually break it. Get an S2 or turbo tranny if you want a stronger ring and pinion.

You'll do a number on the clutch eventually too.

Every once in a while I do a 180 turn from a stop sign which is basically a burnout while turning.. but I'm willing to pay the added wear cost and broken part possibility, are you? Also you need to analyze if you are capable of doing the work of fixing the parts that break yourself , or if you will be facing a large repair bill.

 

UHHH.......HMMM.... You will most likely need some more power. Or lots of water, LOTS of ice, Oil maybe??

J/K .. well not really. To do a real burnout in this car you will need to sidestep the clutch at pretty high rpms. Not good for the pinion, spiders, or rubber center on the clutch.

But hey, go ahead, it will just fasttrack you to modifying it further

 

what about drifting?

 

if you're up to this, first try to see if you can get them spining without a clutch drop. Try a rolling stop with a little bit of water, and then just punch the accel. maybe brake slightly while doing so, just long enough for the tires to brake loose on the wet pavement. Once they're spinning, it shouldn't be too hard to keep them spinning (faster), even on the dry pavement, because their inertia will be greater, and the coefficient of friction will be lower once they have begun to spin.

Otherwise, look foreward to the possibility of a major clutch/LSD disaster.

 

haha, go do it in the Prelude.

 

Rent a car, buy insurance, automatic, go to empty parking lot, put in neutral, rev to 6K, slam in drive and hold on.

Don't do that crap in your car.

 

I will when its done, but not normal drifting because its front wheel drive.

Its called tray drifting, put Mcdonalds trays under the rear wheels then pull the e-brake, lots of fun.

 

Buy a 928.








I frequently get the back end loose when accelerating and making a turn (e.g., pulling out into traffic from a stop)- especially if there is any water at all. Sometimes I do it and I haven't even seen the water, but I assume it was there because the back end shouldn't break free that easily with 265s on there. I never drop the clutch though. I've had to do too many to cause that kind of damage to the clutch. Mine is an 88, so there is a little more oomph than the older NAs.

 

Thanks for all the answers guys. That is the reason I love this site.

I think I'll save my burnouts for another car. I don't want to risk anything.

 

At autocross I need to get some chirping for a good launch, so I've learned how to get some wheelspin while being easy on everything.

I used to try to just rev/drop, but that would just make the clutch slip (VERY BAD FEELING).

I have LSD with 245 (really they're about 265) r-comps in the back, so I've got about as much grip as it's possible to put on an NA. I have an 89 (2.7L) with the stock tranny.

If you want to get the tires spinning, you can get the revs up to around 3-4k and then smoothly start to engage the clutch, but as the car starts to roll and the clutch starts to engage, bury the throttle and let of the clutch SMOOTHLY but quickly. Maybe I'll upload some videos later. If you were quick and got on the left foot brake, you could probably do a burnout. As far as drifting, I did a little at the fun runs at the last event. It's pretty easy with the LSD. Just pick a big radius circle, turn in, lift the throttle a bit to transfer weight off the rear, and then roll all the way into the throttle while holding the wheel steady. After that, it takes some wheel "sawing" and throttle modulation to keep your circle going, but its doable (a lot easier on wet pavement). 2nd gear should be great for all of that.

Increasing front rebound dampening, decreasing rear rebound dampening, and putting the rear toe more towards 0* will all make the back end easier to swing out.

Don't hurt yourself.

 

Very wise decision.

 

Honestly, if your car is anything like mine (or from the sounds of it knfeparty's as well)... you're more likely to just do a "clutch burnout" than a "tire burnout" when just side-stepping the clutch pedal. I know I've tried it before just for fun... and that's what happened. Even in street tires.

A technique drag racer guys use is to 'load & launch', i.e., just let the clutch slip a little to load the drivetrain... then give it full power. This prevents a sharp "pop" in the drivetrain that really breaks things, but still puts nearly as much power down. Compare it to pushing against a wall and punching the wall.

I've also got wide & sticky R-compound tires (225's, but all r-comp's run wide, so maybe 245 real-world?), and have done a ton of mini-burnouts at autocross events before (probably well over 100-200) to get a good launch. I do have a turbo R&P though, so I guess my results may be a little less than useful.