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Easy way to get to clutch master / pedal connection point

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Old 07-15-2008, 06:41 PM
  #16  
xsboost90
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i thought everyone had already ripped that plastic piece out and tossed it- i did.
Old 07-15-2008, 06:57 PM
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Calmchaos
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Lol...
But if you toss it, doesn't the clutch rub on the wires?
Unless you have a pedal like the one pictured... (Which I think was only 1989).
Old 07-15-2008, 07:17 PM
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marky522
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Originally Posted by Calmchaos
Lol...
But if you toss it, doesn't the clutch rub on the wires?
Unless you have a pedal like the one pictured... (Which I think was only 1989).
Thats EXACTLY what happened to my car years ago, PO had pulled that cover and the spring on the clutch pedal wore through the wires causing a fire.

Mark
Old 07-18-2008, 02:47 AM
  #19  
L8_apex
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A secret access panel to the clutch linkage? Ah yes, da Germans had sought uf everyting!
Old 07-18-2008, 04:07 PM
  #20  
CurtP
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Originally Posted by quinnfiske
I replaced my clutch master by pulling it out of the firewall without disconnecting it from the clutch pedal. The actuator just pulls out from the rubber boot. The actuator will stick out from the firewall a bit so you can push the new one on. This maintains the original adjustment.
I just replaced mine last weekend and tried to reuse the old rod in the new master cylinder but it was way out of whack. I ended up replacing the rod with the new one since I had to readjust anyway.

I don't know how you other guys are adjusting the play in the rod. IIRC, the FSM calls for 0.5mm free-play between the rod and the piston in the MC - around 3mm free-play at the pedal. With the assist spring in place, I found it very difficult to "feel", so I turned to my old-school roots and adjusted it in a similar way that you adjust the valve lash on a SBC. Loosen the locknut, unscrew the shaft until you feel resistance - you should now be bottomed out on the piston. Screw the shaft back in while wiggling the shaft up and down until you just get a slight amount of play. Turn the shaft in 1/4 to 1/2 turn more, then tighten the locknut and wiggle the shaft up and down again. There should be just a hint of vertical movement. If it rattles around quite a bit, the adjustment is incorrect.
Old 07-18-2008, 04:12 PM
  #21  
CurtP
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BTW - does anyone have a spare wire cover? The PO removed mine and I've tried to zip-tie the wires up out of the way, but I'd like to put the correct cover in place. I tried using the cover out of the '86 parts car, but I can't get it to fit. My car is an '87.
Old 07-18-2008, 04:22 PM
  #22  
Calmchaos
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Which cover do you have from the 86????
If its the one pictured in the 1st post I would like it very much!! If the car it came from was a manual, that is.

Old 07-20-2008, 10:27 PM
  #23  
CurtP
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No, the cover I have doesn't look anything like the first picture. The one I have is from an '86 951.
Old 12-02-2019, 03:48 AM
  #24  
VegasBoxers
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I know this is an old thread, but I am not able to view the photos the original poster mentioned. I am converting an automatic transaxle car to manual. Right now, I'm trying to replace the pedal assembly with the manual ones.

I can totally relate to the original poster. I have the driver's side seat removed and I'm laying on the floor trying to see what the heck I'm trying to do. If I'm hearing him right, I need to remove the fuse panel and then there's an access panel under it to get to the pedal assembly. Is that accurate?

Thanks guys,
Scott
Old 12-04-2019, 07:45 PM
  #25  
Tiger03447
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@ rmconner...I have,in the past, made a post on how to compress the Jesus spring on the clutch pedal rod if you ever have the misfortune to take it apart like I accidentally did. BTW, does anyone know there the clutch pedal pull spring at the top of the clutch pedal arm attaches to the coachwork.??? I think it goes above the pivot point on the clutch pedal arm, and I think it goes forward toward the front of the dash, like the brake pedal does, but I can't find a hole to put the spring into...Help please!!??



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