how the frick.... ball joint clip removal
03-13-2008, 12:20 AM
#16
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What Travis did not say is that he (Rennbay) sells a great rebuild kit including the correct steel ball. If this was rebuilt using a early ball it will be too small when you take the steel sleave out, however, Rennbay sells a killer kit with everything you will need to replace the ball, bushings, ect.
03-13-2008, 01:16 AM
#19
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the only things about the kit i dont like very much are the rubber dust boot and the new c clip that comes in the kit.
i put it all together and just by wiggling the ball joint around a little the rubber boot came right off. so theres no way i see that thing staying on there more than a hundred miles. So i went ahead and reused a couple of old ones i had that were still in good shape.
as for the c clip. it doesnt seem to be quite big enough in diameter. no matter what i do i cant get it to seat all the way under the lip in the a arm the same amount all the way around. so i just reused the stock c clip. its a bit beefier too.
other than that i love all of travis' products. I would recommend his stuff to anyone.
oh also another funny thing that happened with the kit i got. I know this isnt trav's fault, but the bottle of epoxy i got to seal up the bottom of the joint... It is a 2 tube thing that when you squeeze the epoxy out it mixes the 2 tubes together. well both my tubes had the same stuff in them. so i had no hardener... after like 3 days of it not getting hard i looked at the bottle and was like.... aw sheeeeesh
i dont know how i didnt notice it while dispensing it.
i put it all together and just by wiggling the ball joint around a little the rubber boot came right off. so theres no way i see that thing staying on there more than a hundred miles. So i went ahead and reused a couple of old ones i had that were still in good shape.
as for the c clip. it doesnt seem to be quite big enough in diameter. no matter what i do i cant get it to seat all the way under the lip in the a arm the same amount all the way around. so i just reused the stock c clip. its a bit beefier too.
other than that i love all of travis' products. I would recommend his stuff to anyone.
oh also another funny thing that happened with the kit i got. I know this isnt trav's fault, but the bottle of epoxy i got to seal up the bottom of the joint... It is a 2 tube thing that when you squeeze the epoxy out it mixes the 2 tubes together. well both my tubes had the same stuff in them. so i had no hardener... after like 3 days of it not getting hard i looked at the bottle and was like.... aw sheeeeesh
i dont know how i didnt notice it while dispensing it.
03-13-2008, 01:51 AM
#21
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Someone, once upon a time, was rebuilding arms using the ball joints from the early steel arms. It would require that a metal sleeve be pushed up into the aluminum to take up the extra room. I have run into that once before. Sometimes they are machined a little to accept the sleeve and others just had it pressed in. I would suggest taking it out and then looking at the pocket. You may be able to save her yet.
Regarding the rubber boot comment above, once the spindles are installed, it looks like the rubber boot stays down just fine to keep the dirt/moisture out. I was a bit concerned as well, but it looks like it will be good enough.
Keith
03-13-2008, 12:03 PM
#23
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About the ball joint boots. When they are installed correctly they seat without the help of the spindle. You simply fill the boot with grease and press down on the top of it (next to the pin). The boot will "pop" and will look like this.
