Yummybud924

well it's going to take a few weeks until i can get the parts and the time to do this.

a few questions: 1.) anyone have pictures of how the seals go on the injectors and how the injector seals and attaches into the fuel rail.

I'm guessing it will be obvious once I get it out but pics are nice.

2.) should I remove the fuel line fitting after removing the fuel rail or wile its atatched ot the engine. The 90 degree line looks like I can't get to it without first removing the fuel rail. wouldn't you then have to hold the rail in a vise to get the fuel line off? this would probably bend or damage the rail.

also should I use a mallet or leverage when trying to loosen the connections ot the rail or is that a bad idea?


until I get this done I'm going to go and add fire insurance to my coverage today lol.


also noticed rennbay does not have the fuel injector seals anymore so I'll have to get them from the dealer maybe.

bad_monkey

Too late to suggest an acetylene wand?

Wipeout

Yeah, rennbay appears to be out, which is really annoying as they're the cheapest I've found!

Try PelicanParts instead. I had an order for several other items, so I included new seals in that order.

Yummybud924

I just phoned the porsche parts dealer in my city and the fuel injector seals they sell are 12 bucks per injector.

if I get a separte order from pelican and pay shipping ot canada it will only be aobut 10 bucks cheaper than getting it from the dealer here so i'll just get the injectors from the dealer.

but yeah 14.99 for 4 injectors was a really good deal from rennbay.

also my parts dealer quoted me 115 bucks for the jumper line so I'll just get the jumper line and 2 fuel lines from rennbay.

I have my old control arm to send to rennbay also to get my core charge back.

Yummybud924

lol okay I'll try that, cut open my fuel lines with an acetylene torch.

I'm going to check the hardware store tomorrow to see if I can find a small metal pipe cutter, like something you'd use to cut brake lines.

Yummybud924

"The short-cut method of repair is to replace only the rubber hose, using hose clamps to secure it.

This is very risky. Hose clamps are designed for low pressure use, and are inadequate for the high (3 bar) supply pressures of Porsche fuel injection.

We offer a safe & reasonable cost solution. Most mechanics can make this repair in just a few hours. It requires cutting the metal line and using a metric flaring tool."


I found this on a site selling fuel line kits.

Is that true? using fuel clamps on the high pressure lines is extremely risky? this is what the rennbay kit uses.

Travis - sflraver

We have a new line setup that is not listed on Rennbay.com yet. It is the blue fuel line kit but it has compression fittings to the hard lines like the ones pictured above. Comes with a little pipe cutter and everything. $115 for the supply / return lines kit. It will probably be next week by the time they get listed on the site so just call if you want one of the new sets.

schwank

Again, I've had zero issues with clamps on the supply and return lines on my track car. It is driven very hard at high rpm's. No leaks or any issues.

Your are smart to loosen the lines while the fuel rail is still attached to the car as it provides leverage to loosen the nuts. When it is loose you have to hold it down while wrenching which is tougher. Seals are easy too... a rubber o ring at the top where it goes into the rail, a spacer then a ring, then the pintle cap on the injector tip.

This is one of the easiest jobs I've done to date on these cars.

EDIT: Just saw Travis' post. Buy those.

Yummybud924

so would you say that the old ones are not safe to use?

the clamp method seems easier to install than using compression fittings. I'm guessing you have to use a flare tool and flare the ends of he hard lines for the compression fittig?

if the clamps are safe to use then I'd just go with the cheaper ones with the clamps as they are more straight forward to install aswell.

schwank

The compression fittings do not require a flare. As you screw the top onto the base the inside liner compresses against the fuel line to seal it. They are no more difficult to install than hose clamps.

Travis - sflraver

Have not had any problems with the clamps , as long as you don't "cut the hard lines," as the thread title suggests. You can cut them but it is not suggested. To install them, you should peel away the OEM crimps so the built in flare on the hard lines stay intact.

For the compression fitting set, no flare tool is needed. It uses a sleeve that is compressed together by the fitting to bite into the hard line to create a seal. We are offering these setups because of requests and not because of any problems with the sets we offer currently.

Yummybud924

ok cool, maybe someone can post a picture fo what a compression fitting looks like. so all you need to install the compression fitting is just cutting the line?

if using the old kit with clamps works just fine I may just get those as that's 50 dollars cheaper.

ok just read what Travis posted.

so with the old kit you don't cut the line. I didn't kow that. how are you suppose to peel away the fitting?

I looked at Schwank's pic galllery and it looks like he cut his lines when installing the rennbay kit with clamps.

Auto_Werks 3.6

^^^ you are now on the right track, NO CUTTING THE HARD LINES when using the old style rennbay kit. This will preserve the old factory barb, or flare to help keep the lines in place.
schwank says it works, but I would not gamble on it.
The way I peeled back the factory lines was by using a hacksaw blade to cut the side of the permanent metal clamp that is right at the rubber / steel joint. Be careful not to get carried away and damage the metal pipe beneath. To fit the tool in there, I had to hold the blade in my hand... this was not comfortable, and was the hardest part of the job. Overall very easy to complete. This would be a one wrench in a mechanic's book.

Yummybud924

yeah it's easy until something unexpected happens like one fo the connections doesn't come loose or breaks off or if you end up bending the fuel rail and have to find a new one. then the one hour job becomes a one week job lol.

hackign through the metal seems like a hard job.

also how safe is it to saw through metal on a fuel line? can't the heat or possibly a small spark cause the fuel to ignite?

I'm probably just being too paranoid.

I might just get that new kit with teh compression fittings.

I probably won't install this until mid march. Until then I'm just getting fire insurance added tomorrow so if my car does end up blowing up before I get the lines replaced I can get some money to buy another car lol.

but yeah so far no obvious leaks at my fuel lines, I can just smell a faint gas smell at teh high pressure line going to the damper.

this is my only car / daily driver so I'm going to hope it doesn't blow up until I get the time to fix it.

Yummybud924

sorry one last question. if you do not cut the hard lines shorter with the old styel rennbay kit wouldn't the transition point be near the headers?

also would it be safer to use say 2-3 clamps on each hose?