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do you warm up your car (for n/a's)

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Old 12-20-2007, 04:28 PM
  #16  
Pcar944
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I warm mine for a couple of minutes but also (try to) keep it below 2k rpm's until the temp gauge moves to about the first tick. Probably just paranoia from reading the boxster forum.
Old 12-20-2007, 05:36 PM
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jstand22
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shifting below 2k is also bad for your engine/transmission, in the owners manual it shows minimum upshift points for each of the different transsmission, all of which are above 2k. Below 2k you are lugging the engine, and in an old transmission the syncros will engange better around 3-3.4krpms. Shifting at 3k while cold is fine.
Old 12-20-2007, 06:26 PM
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BeerBurner
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The funny thing is that my upshift light comes on at about 2k. I'm not contradicting what you are saying because, well, the car just runs like crap when shifting that low. I just find it kind of ironic.

BB.
Old 12-20-2007, 09:03 PM
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I just get in and drive, everything I have read says it is better. It will typically have heat in the first 3 minutes if I do this. Let it sit, takes 10 minutes for heat. I only let it warm up long enough so that does not miss. The missing only happens when it is very cold, well below freezing, and then only for about 10-30 seconds. Until the oil is dropping below 5 bar at idle, I treat it as a 4000rpm redline.
Old 12-20-2007, 10:06 PM
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roman944
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Originally Posted by ExitWound
My transmission won't shift until the car is "warmed up" for a few minutes. Also, the idle is iffy until the oxygen sensors turns itself on a few minutes after starting it. driving the car before this happens is really a rough ride. I don't let it sit for 20 minutes idling, but 2-3 minutes is something I have to do .
that's another reason why I asked, because its kind of hard to shift when the car it out cold, maybe I (we) are low on fluid or something?

patrat, I noticed same thing: 2-3 mnts of driving and hot air is blowing in already compared to it sitting for 10mnts

I didn't know that low RPM's were bad for these cars! I know on RX-7's with their rotary's the higher the RPM's the better, didn't know that was the case here.

Most of my shifts are between 2-3k RPM, should I go up a tad higher? is shifting above 3k RPM when car is still "warming up" going to hurt the car?
Old 12-23-2007, 03:30 PM
  #21  
jstand22
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Between 2-3k rpms is fine. I was just saying one should avoid shifting at 2k or below, and don't shift over 3k when cold. It's good to know I'm not the only one driving in the ****ty weather.

BB good point about the shift light at 2k, i noticed today mine comes on around the same time (2100-2200)
Old 12-23-2007, 04:40 PM
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PCA 944
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Maybe I should reconsider letting it warm up for 10 minutes.
Old 12-23-2007, 05:43 PM
  #23  
white924s
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I usually let it idle a little when starting when its cold out

of course, when I'm talking about cold out, I'm talking about 10-15 degrees farenheit or lower
Old 12-24-2007, 01:51 AM
  #24  
ausgeflippt951
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This definitely got me thinking, and so I called up my local 944/old 911 genius and he told me to just get in the car and drive it. Use common sense (i.e. don't be hard on it until it's warm) but you should just get in and drive it. Don't wait for it to warm up. If you've got a well-sorted car, it won't run crappy or anything upon startup and you'll be fine.
Old 12-24-2007, 04:44 AM
  #25  
porschefig
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Also, if you let the car sit and idle, the engine will warm up (in places) and the tranny will be stone cold
Old 12-24-2007, 10:49 AM
  #26  
bearone
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Originally Posted by porschefig
Also, if you let the car sit and idle, the engine will warm up (in places) and the tranny will be stone cold
WRONG, in neutral, at idle the xmsn is turning/warming up.

THAT'S WHY YOU HAVE A CLUTCH TO GO FROM NON-MOVEMENT IN THE TRANNY TO GETTING THE TIRES ROLLING.

87951
Old 12-24-2007, 11:31 AM
  #27  
Imo000
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Fuel injected cars only need ~30 sec to get the oil pressure up to the head/s and then you are good to go. Anything more is a waste of fuel. As others said above, FI engines warm up much faster under load (while driving) then if they idle.
If your engine runs rought when cold, then there is not much of a choice but to let it idle and warm up. OR fix it.
Old 12-24-2007, 01:01 PM
  #28  
porschefig
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Originally Posted by bearone
WRONG, in neutral, at idle the xmsn is turning/warming up.

THAT'S WHY YOU HAVE A CLUTCH TO GO FROM NON-MOVEMENT IN THE TRANNY TO GETTING THE TIRES ROLLING.

87951
Shouldn't have said "stone cold" but here in MT when it's below freezing I let the car sit and idle, the tranny is always cold and STIFF until after it been shifted for a while.........
Old 12-24-2007, 01:29 PM
  #29  
adrial
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Originally Posted by bearone
WRONG, in neutral, at idle the xmsn is turning/warming up.

THAT'S WHY YOU HAVE A CLUTCH TO GO FROM NON-MOVEMENT IN THE TRANNY TO GETTING THE TIRES ROLLING.

87951
Spinning the input shaft warms up the trans almost not at all.

Thats like putting a stick in a bucket of cold oil and spinning it and expecting any significant warming to happen.
Old 12-25-2007, 02:39 PM
  #30  
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i heard somewhere that short trips that dont allow the engine to fully warm up can be bad for it (not exactly why) but is this true? i think i heard it on an oil commercial.

i ask because my trip to school in the morning isnt that long.

and someone mentioned heat coming through the vents. well i only feel hot air (with heater on) when i rev the motor up high, but i try not to when its cold. mabey something wrong with heater?


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