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Way to bypass "ABS" light?

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Old 12-11-2007, 02:12 PM
  #16  
PorscheDoc
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Sensors are held in place IIRC by 5mm (head size) allens.
Old 12-11-2007, 03:07 PM
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Darwantae951

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Light comes on and stays on, which is why I honestly think something is broken. How often to the pumps go bad? If so is it a pain to replace? I know "how" to replace it, but what I mean is when I replace is, what is the process in getting fluid thru the system?

-Darwin
Old 12-11-2007, 04:20 PM
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Yes but when does it come on? Right away or do you have to move? How did you test the relay?
If it's the same relay as the 928 it's pretty specific. When I got my 928 I found a standard relay in place of my ABS relay. Naturally it did not work. The ABS light would go on after a few feet of driving.

Yes the pumps go bad, especially if the brake fluid is neglected. The pump is in the RF wheelhouse behind the splash shield. It's near the battery and gets damp in there, the last one I removed had fasteners that were irritatingly corroded.

-Joel.
Old 12-11-2007, 04:55 PM
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The light comes on right away. I tested the relay by powering it up and listening for a click (I bet I did that wrong).

-Darwin
Old 12-11-2007, 06:47 PM
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rock..there were abs sensers in that box i gave you...if not hit me up..i have a few control unit and sensers
Old 04-25-2008, 12:52 AM
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Darwantae951

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I know I'm reviving an old thread, but Aribop mentioned an article in Clarks Garage that I cannot find. Anyone else happen to know where to find it?

Also I need an ABS relay. Are they the same between years?
Old 04-25-2008, 02:26 AM
  #22  
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I pulled working sensors out of my 968, installed on S2, I switched ABS brain and still the light was on. I changed the pump and that did the trick. It is not easy task-- 18 year old brake lines corroded--finally got loose with torch help. I would try to fix the problem, not to disconect the light!
Old 04-25-2008, 02:36 AM
  #23  
Darwantae951

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Originally Posted by slawek
I pulled working sensors out of my 968, installed on S2, I switched ABS brain and still the light was on. I changed the pump and that did the trick. It is not easy task-- 18 year old brake lines corroded--finally got loose with torch help. I would try to fix the problem, not to disconect the light!
Altho my previous posts do not portray my current intent, it is indeed to fix the problem and not bypass it. I am slowly ruling out everything before I dive into replacing the pump (just in case it's something as simple as a relay).

Care to elaborate on the procedure of replacing the pump?

-Darwin
Old 04-25-2008, 10:20 AM
  #24  
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I don't know if you need much of a writeup, just a lot of time and PB blaster. whip off the RF wheel and fender liner and take a look.

Have you checked for voltage at the ABS head from all four wheel sensors? I read that you ohmed them, I think that if they are all there but not providing a signal you should not get the ABS light until you have driven a short distance, but it would be good to double check before birthing the ABS pump.

If you need to change that pump I'd suggest hosing it with PB Blaster or the like every day for a week or two and then having the blue wrench option when you go at it. Get a vise grip that will fit and not damage the fittings too badly, a flare nut wrench IMO will probably just round them off. You'll want to drain the brake system and disconnect the battery while you do this.

Any better ideas on how to deal with stuck flare nuts? I have not had much luck with flare nut wrenches when they are good and frozen so I carefully use a vice grip and try not to mangle them. I have one of those vise grips designed to grip bolts but it's head is too huge for most things.

-Joel.
Old 04-25-2008, 04:57 PM
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Darwantae951

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Well don't know why, but after I removed every relay and fuse relating to the ABS, it's working again! No idea why tho...
Old 04-25-2008, 05:02 PM
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Take the light out...enough said



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