Piece of crap timing belt!!!
#1
Piece of crap timing belt!!!
Ok, I'm trying to change out the timing belt on my 1984 Porsche 944, and I constantly see crap about people totally destroying their motors.
So, I have new rollers and new belts. I'm so frustrated right now.
What do I take off first? I see no markings as to where the cam and crank should be lined up for when I re-install the belt.
Clarks garage shows me how to re-tension the belt, but it doesn't show anything about totally replacing them.
AAAAAAAAAAAAAHHH!!!!!!!!
Why couldn't Porsche have just used a chain?! I haven't seen a single argument yet that expresses exactly how a belt is more beneficial.
So, I have new rollers and new belts. I'm so frustrated right now.
What do I take off first? I see no markings as to where the cam and crank should be lined up for when I re-install the belt.
Clarks garage shows me how to re-tension the belt, but it doesn't show anything about totally replacing them.
AAAAAAAAAAAAAHHH!!!!!!!!
Why couldn't Porsche have just used a chain?! I haven't seen a single argument yet that expresses exactly how a belt is more beneficial.
#2
Rainman
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Belts are cheaper
If the crank was set properly last time it was built, you can turn the crank with a wrench (without spark plugs) and watch the cam sprocket. There is a notch on the cam sprocket that, when lined up with a tooth on the sprocket housing, signifies TDC.
If the crank was set properly last time it was built, you can turn the crank with a wrench (without spark plugs) and watch the cam sprocket. There is a notch on the cam sprocket that, when lined up with a tooth on the sprocket housing, signifies TDC.
#5
RL Community Team
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Take off the distributor cap, and then take off the metal plate that goes right under the distributor cap. This metal plate hides the cam sprocket. Once the sprocket is revealed, you will see a notch in the sprocket and a notch in the rear sprocket cover. Line these notches up, and the engine will be at TDC. Make sure the crank and cam don't move while the belt is off, and you're good.
Even if you put the belt on 1 tooth off, the engine will still run it will just be rough.
The advantage to belts is they are easier to service. Also it makes it easier to service the rest of the engine like doing the head gasket.
You can't make it high-compression without having interference.
Even if you put the belt on 1 tooth off, the engine will still run it will just be rough.
The advantage to belts is they are easier to service. Also it makes it easier to service the rest of the engine like doing the head gasket.
You can't make it high-compression without having interference.
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#8
RL Community Team
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Everyone has their own preference as to following the procedure (or not) but this is how I do the belt job.
Jack up car (use ramps or stands)
Disconnect battery
If you are doing seals: drain oil while engine is still hot.
Disconnect coil wire from the dizzy (dizzy is VW-speak for distributor)
Take dizzy off the cambox, leaving the 4 plug wires attached, and just put it aside, like on the head
Take off PS belt, AC belt, and belt covers
Take off the front (metal) cam sprocket cover
With 24mm (or 15/16") deep socket, turn the crank until the notches on the cam sprocket and housing line up
Loosen BS belt tensioners and remove BS belt
Loosen cam belt tensioner and remove belt. Clark says it's better to remove the crank sprockets to get the new cam belt on, but I've had success just slipping it in from the edge.
Make sure you put all the tensioners in the right place, and in the right orientation. Tension the TB before you put on the BS belt. To tension the TB the tensioner MUST be turned counter-clockwise.
To tension the BS belt, the lower tensioner is turned clockwise.
The secondary BS tensioner (the smooth one) should just barely touch the BS belt.
The PS and AC belts should be fairly taught when reinstalled.
I may have missed something so be sure to read Clark's awesome write up too.
Jack up car (use ramps or stands)
Disconnect battery
If you are doing seals: drain oil while engine is still hot.
Disconnect coil wire from the dizzy (dizzy is VW-speak for distributor)
Take dizzy off the cambox, leaving the 4 plug wires attached, and just put it aside, like on the head
Take off PS belt, AC belt, and belt covers
Take off the front (metal) cam sprocket cover
With 24mm (or 15/16") deep socket, turn the crank until the notches on the cam sprocket and housing line up
Loosen BS belt tensioners and remove BS belt
Loosen cam belt tensioner and remove belt. Clark says it's better to remove the crank sprockets to get the new cam belt on, but I've had success just slipping it in from the edge.
Make sure you put all the tensioners in the right place, and in the right orientation. Tension the TB before you put on the BS belt. To tension the TB the tensioner MUST be turned counter-clockwise.
To tension the BS belt, the lower tensioner is turned clockwise.
The secondary BS tensioner (the smooth one) should just barely touch the BS belt.
The PS and AC belts should be fairly taught when reinstalled.
I may have missed something so be sure to read Clark's awesome write up too.
#10
The reason Porsche used a belt is due to the expansion of the engine. A chain wont strech as much as a belt, there is supposed to be a drastic amount of difference warm and cold.
Mark
Mark
#11
See, this is why I'm so friggin pissed. I've rebuilt and re-assebled entire engines before, including automatic transmissions. Two GM V6/60s, a small block chevy, an Oldsmobile 455 big block, an Iron Duke, a Th350, and a Th400, yet... changing the timing belt on a Porsche 944 is harder than all of that. Rebuilding a Th-350 has a few more steps, but it's still easy and pretty much fool proof.
I really hate giving up... I mean, I REALLY hate giving up... but considering that Champion Porsche here in South Florida will do the belts and the rollers for $500 bucks, it's worth it to me to have THEM do it, and then perform the re-tensioning.
#12
Hey Man
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
It seems with all your mechanical history that a T-belt would be a piece of cake. It's really not that difficult and I can't see why you are having such a problem with it. There are so many instructions available it's hard to go wrong. Do some more research and you'll feel better about. BTW:You can rebuild my R-700 in my Chevy anytime you want, I'll do your belts in trade
#15
Cast Iron Man
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