Camber plate/Upper Strut Mount question
#1
Three Wheelin'
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First, anyone familiar with these camber plates?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/MK1-P...spagenameZWDVW
Second, my car is street legal, mostly track car. I will be putting on 425# springs and 30 mm T-bars over the winter. I wanted to get a little more negative camber since my tires are wearing unevenly for the driving I do. Are camber plates necessary? Can I just set the suspension where it needs to be? I guess this will assume that I shread tires on the street driving, hmm?
On the free end of the spectrum. I have a set of late upper strut mounts already in my possession. If I put those on the car (over the stock set up of the early car), would I experience some benefit? I have heard they are better than the early style.
thanks
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/MK1-P...spagenameZWDVW
Second, my car is street legal, mostly track car. I will be putting on 425# springs and 30 mm T-bars over the winter. I wanted to get a little more negative camber since my tires are wearing unevenly for the driving I do. Are camber plates necessary? Can I just set the suspension where it needs to be? I guess this will assume that I shread tires on the street driving, hmm?
On the free end of the spectrum. I have a set of late upper strut mounts already in my possession. If I put those on the car (over the stock set up of the early car), would I experience some benefit? I have heard they are better than the early style.
thanks
#2
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Not sure on the mount question. But i was able to get 2 degrees neg camber on the stock early suspension. Granted this is on worn springs (for now) and stock struts (for now) so you may not be able to get that far negative on your own car. IIRC 2 deg neg is ideal for track set up, if you can not get it that far, then yes, adj camber plates will be needed. Have you had it to a good align shop and seen what they can get out of it?
#3
Three Wheelin'
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Not sure on the mount question. But i was able to get 2 degrees neg camber on the stock early suspension. Granted this is on worn springs (for now) and stock struts (for now) so you may not be able to get that far negative on your own car. IIRC 2 deg neg is ideal for track set up, if you can not get it that far, then yes, adj camber plates will be needed. Have you had it to a good align shop and seen what they can get out of it?
The did an agrresive alignment when I "built" this 2 seasons ago. I'm ready to go for more with the new springs. Maybe I should call the shop. Hmmm.
#4
Almost Addicted
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Those pates look like a steal compared to the anodized red ones (either weltmeister or racers edge, can't recall). If they are any good, that is.
#5
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I have seen something similar to those camber plates on a car, and wasn't too impressed with the setup. It looked like it could have been a little better designed. The Racers Edge camber plates (the red ones) work really well and I haven't heard of any complaints. The other positive of switching the upper strut mounts is that the front suspension is more responsive with the soild bearing in place.
#6
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I'd be worried about trusting the clamping force of those small allen head bolts. Looks a bit under engineered to me, but I have't seen these in person.
Regards,
Regards,
#7
Three Wheelin'
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I have seen something similar to those camber plates on a car, and wasn't too impressed with the setup. It looked like it could have been a little better designed. The Racers Edge camber plates (the red ones) work really well and I haven't heard of any complaints. The other positive of switching the upper strut mounts is that the front suspension is more responsive with the soild bearing in place.
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#8
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Hey Steve;
Those plates look OK to me. I would use larger washers, but other than that they look OK. Certainly cheap enough. Ironically, with stiffer spring you usually need less camber. Less roll, doncha know?
You should be able to get plenty of negative for what you are doing. Problem is, if you are very agressive at the tack, street driving - and tire wear - suffers.
Camber plates can indeed be a good solution for dual use cars that are driven quite assertively at the track. If you are shredding the insde of your tires on the street, you might be a candidate.
You can indeed get the best of both worlds with camber plates, IF you take the time to set the front up properly. First, you need an alignment man that is willing to work with you, and you have to be willing to pay for his time.
Start by setting the front for a good street value. That means setting the top to near minimum camber (outboard), and doing the adjusting at the bottom with the eccentrics. You also want to set the toe in very conseratively. I would use stock at 5/64 total toe in. Remember that when you add negative camber, you DECREASE toe in.
Then, add camber at the top to where you feel you want it, and also check to see the effect on toe. If you are not more than zero toe, then you are probably good. If you go past zero into toe out, you need to reset to more street toe in so your track negative camber gives you acceptable toe numbers.
Too much toe out will be really skatey on the street.
Those plates look OK to me. I would use larger washers, but other than that they look OK. Certainly cheap enough. Ironically, with stiffer spring you usually need less camber. Less roll, doncha know?
You should be able to get plenty of negative for what you are doing. Problem is, if you are very agressive at the tack, street driving - and tire wear - suffers.
Camber plates can indeed be a good solution for dual use cars that are driven quite assertively at the track. If you are shredding the insde of your tires on the street, you might be a candidate.
You can indeed get the best of both worlds with camber plates, IF you take the time to set the front up properly. First, you need an alignment man that is willing to work with you, and you have to be willing to pay for his time.
Start by setting the front for a good street value. That means setting the top to near minimum camber (outboard), and doing the adjusting at the bottom with the eccentrics. You also want to set the toe in very conseratively. I would use stock at 5/64 total toe in. Remember that when you add negative camber, you DECREASE toe in.
Then, add camber at the top to where you feel you want it, and also check to see the effect on toe. If you are not more than zero toe, then you are probably good. If you go past zero into toe out, you need to reset to more street toe in so your track negative camber gives you acceptable toe numbers.
Too much toe out will be really skatey on the street.
#10
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The S2 mounts still have rubber in them, so the Ebay ones would be a better choice of the two. I wasn't saying that they were bad, I just thought that the Racers Edge ones were a better design. John makes a good point about being able to change the allignment to save the tires. Any monoball upper strut mount would be better than stock.