Well my issue started with 1st and 2nd gear not engaging. I replaced the complete hydraulic (clutch master, slave, line, blue hose and gasket) system without being successful. I must have bled around 2 gallons of Super Blue ATE using many methods on this board.


Eg

Slave above clutch master
Long tube from slave to reservoir and pump away
Bled system at the joint connecting the Clutch master
Bled system at the joint connecting to the hydraulic line
Ran around the car 5x and prayed at night before going to bed
Etc..


So I removed my slave and found a small piece of coiled metal. It looks as if one of the springs broke inside the clutch and left it for me as evidence. I am still not able to engage any gears and believe my worst case scenario…I need a new clutch.

With that in mind I am off to do research on tips/tricks/prices for performing a clutch job. This would be my first attempt and would appreciate any feedback on what to look for..(yes I have a 2 piece crossover pipe), what to disconnect before jacking up the car, etc..

TIA

links to any good threads would be appreciated

 

its really quite simple, my clutch blew out only 2 months after i had bought my s2. having never really done any major work on the s2 prior to the clutch going i was quote nervous about tacking it myself.

well, i ended up buying a lot of beer and stayed up all night, and a bit of the morning to complete the whole job. its really not nearly as bad as it sounds. just have patience and don't rush anything.

 

I wouldn't attempt to do it quickly. That's my advice. It's a PITA, but it's not rocket science. The Clark's Garage write-up worked for me. I also referred to the factory manual to confirm some things. The main reason for not trying to get it all done at once is parts sourcing and machine shop work on the flywheel. There are so many things that you may or may not want to replace while in there (needle bearings, etc.). You could order everything up front and have it ready, or you could take it apart, see what you need, and order what you don't have. I'd recommend that you make your peace with losing a week or two of driving time and do it slowly and methodically. One thing is for sure, you will NOT want to have to take it apart again!

One tip. You might be able to order the whole set-up from Paragon and try to return what you don't use. Chuck is pretty good about that, as long as everything is in its original packaging. But you'll want to ask first. Get a good diagram and go through what you might need on the phone with the Paragon guys. They've helped enough people to know the ins and outs. Good luck!

 

I recently completed my clutch replacement. My suggestions:
1. At least wear a cheap painters mask under car to avoid sucking dirt and deterierating heat sheilds.
2. Get sandwitch bags and label small bolts/nuts-saves a lot of time searching.
3. Important!!!! Get expensive metric hex. Cheap sets will not hold up and you will round pan head bolts and spend hours removing.
4. Make sure all sockets to bolt heads are securely seated and hold tight. I ground the 17mm and 19mm sockets flush to get rid of the small front bevel on socket.
5. If you don't have a trans jack at least craft a wooden base for your floor jack for the transaxle.
6. Special tools. Swivel head ratchets. Many extensions for upper bell housing bolts. Expensive metric hex socket set
7. Be very careful of the speed sensors. Regap before attaching drive tube on assembly.
8. Degrease and clean. You will feel accomplishment
9. http://home.hvc.rr.com/nine44/Kehr%2...eplacement.txt
10. http://www.924.org/techsection/ClutchReplacement.htm

The rest is just time-time-time-time. Good luck

John_AZ
1988 924S to Show
1987 924S to Go

 

Probably not much original in here, but if you're looking for encouragement:
https://rennlist.com/forums/924-931-944-951-968-forum/321542-clutch-job-ball-joint-job-done.html

 

Have you checked to be sure that you are getting the proper clutch fork travel to disengage the clutch? There is an inpsection port (usually has a rubber plug in it) about 1.5 inches diameter in the bellhousing near the slave cylinder. You can measure the difference between clutch fork position with clutch out and clutch in. If this checks out O.K. then your problem is elsewhere (maybe a pressure plate problem). The Haynes 944 book has photos and how-to on this also.

 

A reference sensors in mine was corroded in place and I ended up taking the complete bracket off. I found that I had twisted the sensor and broken it. The clutch fork retaining rod was also corroded in place and after many hours I cut the bellhousing in pieces to get rod out. The exhaust nuts and bolts were impossible to budge so I cut them off. I built a steel tray using 1" tube and 4" x 1/8 flatbar to build a transmission adapter to fit on my floor jack. I also bought a $1700 scissor lift to raise the car 4 ft. it was worth every penny. The job took all summer.

 

Now there's encouragement for ya...