MAGK944

..... Pls tell me that this is an optical illusion because of the angle the picture was taken

Aviator

I've read the by lowering the car via springs along can cause premature wear on other suspension components, notable the lower ball joints, because they are closer to their limit especially when flexed from a lower ride hight. Is this true in experience, and did anyone do anything particular to ensure a proper lowering, or is it even necessary? I'd like to lower in the spring and just thinking of what I'll need to do to do it right. Also in the back is it really just an adjustment of bolts, or would that then place a lot of stress on the shocks?

Thanks for the replies in advance if anyone has ideas!

-Aviator

M758

Before (215/60 R15 Tires)


After (225/50 R15 Tires - diameter is 1" shorter than above)



As for how low is the car? 4 3/4 inches from bolt heat on the caster block to the ground. I guess lowered about 2" from stock. maybe more.

I did with 30 mm t-bars reindexed and 8" 350lbs front springs and adjustable perches.

M758

Actually this looks about right.
Compared to one our fastest cars

nh7cy

Derek, I love the color of that car, especially with those wheels!

Techno Duck

Rennbay has longer ball joint pins available which correct the geometry issues on lowered cars. Many of the aftermarket control arms available have similar options available (longer pins).

roman944

which coils?

I like both of these and that last red one with ramp, that's what I would like, you guys don't scrape? what is the difference between having 200lb/250lb/400lb springs? is there much improvement by going with a bigger stress bar? or not worth it?

Techno Duck

I would scrape if i was not careful, im sure everyone would say the same thing. Avoid uneven pavement and bumps like the plague, take aprons leading into driveways at angles.. speed bumps i can get over going head on no problem. Just have to be smart about it...usually if you think your going to scape something, you probably are. Its all about the angle you take things at...you basically get used to never pulling out or pulling into anywhere with the car perfectly straight. My front valance is 3.5 inches off the ground.. just be careful!

The springs are going to determine the stiffness of the ride. The 200lb springs i use are stiffer than stock, but still pretty compliant for street use. They can also still be used with the stock rear torsion bars. 250lb springs can be used also, slightly stiffer ride but still compliant for everyday use on bumpy roads. They can still be used with stock torsion bars but your car will have inherent understeer characteristics. They are really the absolute maximum you should run with stock torsion bars. Think about it, the rear spring rate is around 125lbs. Ideally you want to keep the spring rates even front to rear.

400lb springs are a little extreme for a street car, but everyones idea of daily drivable is different.

Bigger sway bars help immensely...there are many options to choose from.

genikz

Yeah, I know, it's pretty damn rediculous in that picture. When I did the suspension, I set the camber plates at about -3 degrees, for a total of about -5 degrees. I only drove it like that once--to the race prep shop to get setup and corner balanced

adrial

Stock ride height and then lowered to the bottom of the perches with factory 951S front coilovers (lowered to match with rear eccentric).

The car never scrapes the front end -- I'm not even that careful with it anymore, just take it slow and it generally clears just fine thanks to the short front overhang. If you add a splitter, you will have some issues with a lowered car.

Fabcar a-arms take care of any potential balljoint binding issues (have checked them after ~30k+ miles of street driving, countless autocrosses and a few DE's...no signs of the BJ pin smashing the surrounding housing).

drift a 944

before:
(this picture is so embarrasing)


after:



another after pic:

roman944

I like that look, what did you go with for suspension? wheels?

DDP

Mine are koni double adj, 550# rear and 350# front. No T bars.

roman944

what are torsion bars and is there any way around them? upgrade them? replace with *?

Matt O.

+1