Scuba Steve

I need to change the clutch master cylinder - I noticed brake fluid leaking onto the carpet. What else should I pick up for the job along with the new master? Rebuild the slave as well? What lines are needed? Any gaskets? I also plan on getting a power bleeder to make the job a little easier.

I've done a lot on this car including a clutch change, but what people have written about this one makes me just a little nervous about it.

KuHL 951

About the only thing I can think of is there is a gasket between the firewall and master, it never seems to come with the new master. You might want to get a can of ATE Racing Blue brake fluid for a complete clutch/brake flush.

Scuba Steve

Are you talking about the paper gasket? I've looked around a little more... it looks like there are two lines involved with the clutch hydraulics. Is it a good idea to change them out, or do they pretty much last forever?

Blue fluid is on my list - I did a brake flush earlier this year when I replaced calipers and it was nice. That's when I was introduced to the wonder that is my friend's power bleeder.

shiners780

If they are original, just change 'em out while you're in there. The blue braided hose is a common failure point, and I have had the intermediate hose (master to slave) fail on my car. For under $40 you can have piece of mind and not have to worry about them for a long, long time.

http://www.paragon-products.com/category_s/119.htm

Tom M'Guinn

I'd get a new slave, master, and the line that runs between them. Mine went in that order over the course of two months. Replacing one seems to stress the next, etc. Also recommend the Motive power bleeder, as the design of the system otherwise makes it mighty tough to bleed.

quinnfiske

Also, the actuator rod does not need to be disconnected from the clutch pedal. Just pull the master cylinder straight out from the firewall. The adjustment should still be good.

FSU944

I'll be doing this job tomorrow night. Didn't order the line between the master and slave, hope I don't regret it later.

All old parts are off, wasn't too bad to take them off, just need the right tools. Disconnecting from the clutch pedal was probably the most trying just due to lack of space.

Tom M'Guinn

Well might started leaking after replacing the slave and master, but I'd have to think it's the least likely of the three to fail. I'm sure most people do just fine re-using it. On the other hand, I bet parts heaven in Hayward has new ones on the shelf...

marky522

I did this complete job in about 1.5 hours just two days ago. I replaced the master, slave and hose from res. to master. Make sure you get clamps for the hose, if it is orig the factory clamps wont be reusable, as they area crimp on style, which you should replace with the same, but most people use hose clamps. Easy job, I haveheard you can do it with the starter on, i started to, then just pulled the two bolts, and it saved me time, also took the opportunity to clean my starter contacts.

Mark

aben8057

5 components

Slave, Clutch Master, paper gasket, hydraulic hose and blue hose.

I highly recommend changing them at the same time as I learned the hard way. A Motive power bleeder also helps.

Mighty Shilling

I just did this yesterday. I did a clutch master cylinder, and did the slave about a year ago. WHAT A DIFFERENCE IT MAKES! it's actually smooth clutch engagement, with no play in the pedal! my master wasn't leaking, but it was obviously bad.

I did the blue hose and the master this time... Like Aben says, you SHOULD do all of them at once, but if cost is an issue, replace what you can, and hope that nothing else goes....