Rear hatch leak near driver's side latch point
#1
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From: Rosaria, Cascadia
Rear hatch leak (UPDATE: need part, see my last post)
So, I've had a little bit of a leak whe the car is exposed to constant water (sitting outside in rain, during a car wash). Recently, I climbed in the back and had someone hose down the spoiler - I know the leak is on the driver's side from the hatch pin towards the driver's side. It's as if there's a gap in the seal, but I'm not sure where. I'm looking to replace either all of the seals or just the locking pin seals. Locking pin seals are easy, albeit expensive. Looks like you actually take the locking pin assembly out, put the seal on, then bolt it back up. What worries me is that if I spend the 100 dollars per seal (may as well do both...right?) that that isn't the problem. I have photos to illustrate what's happening attached below...
My question is this: what seal is the rear hatch seal at pelican or paragon - is it the one attached to the body of the car or to the hatch itself? I don't have one attached to the hatch, save for the rubber right under the spoiler (again, see pics below). If I'm buying all these seals I want to make sure I'm getting the right ones!
My question is this: what seal is the rear hatch seal at pelican or paragon - is it the one attached to the body of the car or to the hatch itself? I don't have one attached to the hatch, save for the rubber right under the spoiler (again, see pics below). If I'm buying all these seals I want to make sure I'm getting the right ones!
Last edited by Wipeout; 10-18-2007 at 09:55 PM. Reason: I'm a moron.
#4
The hatch seal is on the body and costs around $90. The latch rubbers are about $30 each. Try this rennlist sponsor www.vertexauto.com
You might also consider buying Dan's stainless steel hatch pins Here. Just installed into mine. Use anti-sieze on the threads, clean out the latch assembly and make sure the drain pipe is attached. Be very careful removing the old latch pins, use penetrating oil and go easy.
You might also consider buying Dan's stainless steel hatch pins Here. Just installed into mine. Use anti-sieze on the threads, clean out the latch assembly and make sure the drain pipe is attached. Be very careful removing the old latch pins, use penetrating oil and go easy.
#5
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Hadn't looked at Vertex. I found the rear hatch seal, but can't find the latch rubbers (and I think they're the problem).
Have been considering Dan's pins - actually, considering cleaning all that crap up when I replace the seals.
Have been considering Dan's pins - actually, considering cleaning all that crap up when I replace the seals.
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#8
Look under the hatch pins at where the little plastic hoses drain out under the car. Check these to see if they are clogged with debri, thats what happened to mine, I just blew them out and problem solved.
#9
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From: Rosaria, Cascadia
#10
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Replacement hatch seal arrived today. Thought I'd put it to the test and wash the car...it's not fixed. It's the lock pin seal on the driver's side. May as well get both (right), but they look to be special order parts from Porsche. These are gonna cost an arm and a leg and take forever to get here, aren't they...
#11
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From: Rosaria, Cascadia
Damnit damnit damnit damnit!
Received the part from Pelican. Wrong part (my fault). Does anyone have the piece (including seal) the pin attaches to one the hatch in good condition? I need one (driver's side) or both.
Photos of my stupidity below.
Received the part from Pelican. Wrong part (my fault). Does anyone have the piece (including seal) the pin attaches to one the hatch in good condition? I need one (driver's side) or both.
Photos of my stupidity below.