I need to replace my motor mounts and am looking for some advice.

First of all, is this even feasible without a lift? All I have is a floor jack and four jack stands. Should I just pay a shop to do it?

Second, which motor mounts would you guys recommend? I looked on Lindsey Racing's website and noticed that they offer several types of solid mounts. Should I get something like that or just stick with rubber mounts?

Thanks,
Alex

 

I did mine with just a lift and a piece of 2x4! Used the new model engine mount (Porsche).

Not all that hard to do, but it's been a while so I don't remember all the details.

Jim 1987 944S

 

it's pretty time consuming and you'll need to get an allignment afterwards.

I'd use an engine support and chains to hold the engine from above. I don't like constructing one out of wood as it's more likely to slide forward. the engine support I bought can support up to 750 pounds and has griping feet so it is less likely to slide foward.

other than that you'll need torque wrenches and general tools.

you might be able to support the engine from underneat the oil pan but there'll be less room under there.

 

Hmm... I'm thinking about just taking it to a shop and having them do the motor mounts, water pump, timing belt, and a good brake fluid flush(is it easy to do a full flush at home)?

Thanks

Alex

 

Motor mounts aren't that hard to do, it just takes some patience. I used a floor jack and a piece of 2X8 on the oil pan to hold up the engine. I pretty much went by the instructions on Clarks.

The updated OEM turbo-style mount is more than adequate for a street car.

Oh, and make sure you finish one side before taking the other side off. It can be hell lining up the holes otherwise.

 

If you use the aftermarket mounts, they are a pain in the *** to squeeze them into lower subframe. If you can afford it, pay a shop. Leave it to the shop for under 450.00 or so would be fair. Pretty tough job for the average backyard mechanic.

 

The only difficulty was trying to create space to squeeze in the new mounts. The old ones are collapses and therefore not as thick, and come out easier. The new mounts' studs seemed too long and kept hitting things and wouldn't allow the new mount to go in. My solution - just chop down the studs by 3-4mm.

Whichever way you go, good luck.

 

Flush take about 15 minutes if you have a Motive power bleeder. It's under $60 for the bleeder with the right adapter.

Belts and water pump are no big deal. You just need the tools, and you need to be organized and detailed when you're doing them.

 

This is what my father built for me to change the motor mounts.

Makes it more easy to handel the car.. now you can lift as you want..





Hope it helps..

/C

 

The picture above is what the factory manual uses to replace the mounts. Probably the safest way to do them.

But you can do it by jacking up by the oil pan (carefully). This was one of the first jobs I did on my 86 and that's the way I did it. I would rate this a pretty nasty job just because there's not much room to maneuver tools. Not something I would look forward to doing again. But very satisfying having a car that doesn't shake like an earthquake.

And use the turbo mounts. Don't mess with anything else.

 

how does that makeshift lift work? do you jack the car up, then connect that like an engine hoist, undo the mounts and drop the car?

 

If you were in the area I'd let you borrow my BendPak rig, the rubber feet fit in the fender channels, it's a dream. I'd really be kicking myself in the *** if I cracked a pan and had to change it out, too.

Get the $100 ea mounts.

 

The rig holds the engin in the front and the transaxel holds it in the back and from spining..
Now the engine is in a solid state and you can drop the crossmember and change the motormounts..

the good thing with this is that you cant use a lift so you can stand up while doing it...

It is hard enough to get them of....

/C