widebody air vs gtracing
#31
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Nice V2! Good find there. I was going to make a few extra sets but was worried of EXPLOSION in my oven. I need a few extra sets just so if one cracks or dulls, I can just pop a new set on while buffing the last.
Thanks!
Thanks!
#33
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Thats awesome! I dont mind the bolted versions either if they are just the flares. Quick fasteners on the full fender/quarters look kinda funky though on a street car but I can see why they have to be on a track car.
Last edited by 944-LT1; 09-09-2007 at 08:18 AM.
#34
#35
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I prefer non-bolted widebodies, but that 968 looks awesome. The front fenders look better than the rear quarter panles in my opinion. Is that the 600HP 968 that I've read about?
#37
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so, for me it seems like the choice is the AIR widebody, because you get 10" in the front and 12" in the back, and they will talk to you on the phone and tell you how to put on the kit and they don't have the fitment issues that gtracing has. On the phone AIR said there would be no need to heat or shape the parts when I was on the phone with them.
I'm still looking for pics of the cut out/glue procedure, especially where to cut out under the rear turn signal because that area is a tricky one with lots of changes in curve and direction.
I want to do this right and not loose any strength in the car.
Thanks!
I'm still looking for pics of the cut out/glue procedure, especially where to cut out under the rear turn signal because that area is a tricky one with lots of changes in curve and direction.
I want to do this right and not loose any strength in the car.
Thanks!
#39
Race Director
#40
Race Director
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so, for me it seems like the choice is the AIR widebody, because you get 10" in the front and 12" in the back, and they will talk to you on the phone and tell you how to put on the kit and they don't have the fitment issues that gtracing has. On the phone AIR said there would be no need to heat or shape the parts when I was on the phone with them.
I'm still looking for pics of the cut out/glue procedure, especially where to cut out under the rear turn signal because that area is a tricky one with lots of changes in curve and direction.
I want to do this right and not loose any strength in the car.
Thanks!
I'm still looking for pics of the cut out/glue procedure, especially where to cut out under the rear turn signal because that area is a tricky one with lots of changes in curve and direction.
I want to do this right and not loose any strength in the car.
Thanks!
Weren't you, only about 2 weeks ago, talking about selling or parting out your car after you just got it painted? Or maybe I am mistaking you for a different poster?
#41
Drifting
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so, for me it seems like the choice is the AIR widebody, because you get 10" in the front and 12" in the back, and they will talk to you on the phone and tell you how to put on the kit and they don't have the fitment issues that gtracing has. On the phone AIR said there would be no need to heat or shape the parts when I was on the phone with them.
Find yourself a good hotrod shop - not a collision repair - and talk to them. A lot of the restoration/hotrod projects use fiberglass body panels and those guys are typically very good at knowing how to splice them into the car. Also, neither the front fenders, or rear quarters are structural members of the car so you don't need to worry about loosing strength.
#43
Billowing in the Wind
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
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holy cow Skip! I just checked your last post in the thread under 'reconstruction' and compared to these latest pics you've come a long way.
crazy!
crazy!
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#44
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PO = Previous Owner
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