about to pull my power steering crap
09-17-2007, 11:41 AM
#31
If it's been leaking for a while (like mine) then you'll need engine degreaser for the bottom of the car as well... I used 2 full cans! Unfortunately, I couldn't re-sell hardly anything from mine. I had a leaking rack with shot tie-rod ends, leaky hoses, and a leaky pump as well (yeah it used a LOT of fluid!).
The manual steering is awesome though - I love it! The only bad part is autocrossing coming into a turn HARD on the brakes you can really feel the difference then. Other than that it's not really different!
The manual steering is awesome though - I love it! The only bad part is autocrossing coming into a turn HARD on the brakes you can really feel the difference then. Other than that it's not really different!
09-19-2007, 12:17 AM
#32
Three Wheelin'
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If you like your steering without power, thats fine by me. But if not, you can go into Autozone, order a rebuilt 83 rack for $150, install the thing in like 3 hours and be done with the whole damn problem. Oh and BTW, it comes with a life time guarantee. Remember, you have to ask for an 83 to get the $150 price, and yes, they work on the later cars. If I never see another hydraulic acutator seal again, that will be fine too....;]
PS... this is a Herb Steck idea that worked great for me...Bruce
PS... this is a Herb Steck idea that worked great for me...Bruce
01-20-2008, 06:46 PM
#33
Racer
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Thanks guys! I appreciate all the advice!
If I get the 83 rack, can I use all my existing tie rods and whatnot? Is there anything I need to modify? Or do I JUST replace the rack? (and eliminate the lines and everything else).
Thanks guys!!!
If you like your steering without power, thats fine by me. But if not, you can go into Autozone, order a rebuilt 83 rack for $150, install the thing in like 3 hours and be done with the whole damn problem. Oh and BTW, it comes with a life time guarantee. Remember, you have to ask for an 83 to get the $150 price, and yes, they work on the later cars. If I never see another hydraulic acutator seal again, that will be fine too....;]
PS... this is a Herb Steck idea that worked great for me...Bruce
PS... this is a Herb Steck idea that worked great for me...Bruce
Thanks guys!!!
01-23-2010, 02:57 PM
#35
Three Wheelin'
Hey guys. Bringing this one back from the dead because I'm working on a How-To with pictures.
I just wanted to confirm that I need to unscrew this ring to separate the rack assembly to remove the actual toothed steering rack rod:
If so, any advice on how to get this thing loose?
Thanks!
I just wanted to confirm that I need to unscrew this ring to separate the rack assembly to remove the actual toothed steering rack rod:
If so, any advice on how to get this thing loose?
Thanks!
01-23-2010, 03:00 PM
#36
Rennlist Member
Yes it has to be removed to separate the rack. I have used a hammer and a punch. Just have to hold it securely and take your time, threads are RH/standard.
01-25-2010, 01:39 AM
#39
Three Wheelin'
Here's my write-up. It's huge (7MB) but I wanted to include a lot of pictures.
http://www.brooksbabies.com/porsche/...ack-how-to.pdf
I still have some projects to finish before I can put the car back on the ground, but the feel of the rack is nice and smooth, so I'm sure I will be happy with it. Hopefully it will reduce the effort needed in slow speed turns.
http://www.brooksbabies.com/porsche/...ack-how-to.pdf
I still have some projects to finish before I can put the car back on the ground, but the feel of the rack is nice and smooth, so I'm sure I will be happy with it. Hopefully it will reduce the effort needed in slow speed turns.
01-25-2010, 09:59 AM
#40
Rennlist Member
Nice write-up and great pics. I just wanted to mention a few things I have done and have seen included in other procedures. Here is a step from a procedure on another forum.
I did this on mine, (used short screws instead of shims) so I can’t comment what it would be like without having done this, but thought it was worth mentioning.
The other thing was I made my own caps out of the PS line banjo bolts by grinding them down. Since they are hollow, you can make pretty quick work of them, of course assuming you have a grinding wheel available. A potentially good thing about going this route is makes the area behind the pinion tower smaller physically and may help with installation/removal. Just another way to accomplish the same end.
Again, great write-up, probably belongs in the DIY section.
Valve/pinion drive flats shim - the pinion (gear that engages the rack) and the valve (part connected to the input shaft) are two separate parts that are joined by a torsion bar. With the pump running, when you twist the wheel, the valve senses the amount of torque you're inputing to the rack and provides an increasing amount of assist as the angle of twist in the torsion bar increases. There's usually about 15 degrees of twist allowed before the valve reaches a mechanical stop on the pinion called the drive flats. This mechanical stop is there to limit the max amout of twist in the event of a pressure loss or torsion bar failure. When you disconnect your PS pump, you obviously loose all assist and must now twist the wheel through that 15 degrees or so in either direction before you can apply anything more than a few ft-lbs of torque on the steering wheel. This is a large factor in the "mushiness" felt by those running PS racks without the belt connected. The easy fix is to just take up the free rotation between center and each drive flat. This can be done with shims relatively easily.
The other thing was I made my own caps out of the PS line banjo bolts by grinding them down. Since they are hollow, you can make pretty quick work of them, of course assuming you have a grinding wheel available. A potentially good thing about going this route is makes the area behind the pinion tower smaller physically and may help with installation/removal. Just another way to accomplish the same end.
Again, great write-up, probably belongs in the DIY section.
01-25-2010, 01:31 PM
#41
Race Car
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Good write-up -- though you could have made pictures a little more download friendly.
When I did mine, I plugged in the banjo bolts with some bolts and plugged in the plastic cross-over line with some rubber plugs at a hardware store. Those crimped hardlines look a little ghetto.....
When I did mine, I plugged in the banjo bolts with some bolts and plugged in the plastic cross-over line with some rubber plugs at a hardware store. Those crimped hardlines look a little ghetto.....
