i actually haven't seen this talked about much here (the gutting the rack idea)... Is the performance of a gutted power rack much different than a factory manual one?

 

I just didn't have the money for a manual one, and I'm tired of PS fluid pissing all over my rubber bushings.

Does anyone know? Do I put that cylinder sleeve lookin piston back in? What seals should I leave out?

 

The red one doesn't go back in right?
How bout the yellow?

 

Yes.

 

Remove red, keep yellow.

 

OK
But can I ask, why do I keep yellow? Won't that add resistance? Does it still serve some purpose without the fluid?

Thanks

 

Man, it's been a while now, I can't remember. Like said above, the red guy needs to go. I can't remember the purpose of the yellow dude but I think it should stay, to keep the rack centered in the housing. Maybe the outside seals can come off, but the inside seal I think should stay, so it can hold onto the rack.

But then, I think the seals at the ends of the housing will hold the rack centered, so maybe the yellow guy can go.

Again, I don't remember perfectly, so don't go solely on what I say.

 

OK, I'll wait for someone else to chime in then.

 

Hey;

Didn't read anything but the question. Removing PS doesn't save enough weight to justify the hassle and expense. 10lbs maybe? Manual racks are expensive hen's teeth, and are not serviceable if they are worn, which anything but a $$$ new one will be after 25 years.

Anything but a proper manual conversion or restoration of the PS will steer like a truck and ruin a nice driving car. I wouldn't have a car without PS. Do it right and fix the PS.

 

Too late. And I honestly like the really heavy handed steering.

I'm about to go outside in an hour and finish this and leave the piston sleeve(?) in there unless someone tells me I can do otherwise.

 

I converted my 87 to manual - I love it X100000000!

 

OK well. I pulled the red kept the yellow.
I pulled that thing apart, covered every little thing in some grease, capped the holes and bolted it back together.
It steers SO nice now. I'm so glad I did this. It feels just as easy as the power steering ever did (but my rack leaked like hell).
And it is now a billion times better than it was when I left everything and just pulled the belt.

Oh... also... it doesn't seem like I need an alignment but I'll decide on that after I get some 50-60mph speeds in.

Thanks to all those who helped!

 

Thanks for posting up pics and more detailed instructions. I'm going to pull my rack and remove that damn "red thing" ASAP.

 

No problem.
The pic was from rennbay it's not of my personal rack.

And btw no alignment is needed as long as you don't mess with the tie rod ends.

 

Um... the "quick and easy" way seems like it would be better than the long version. In that one they just jump the separator seal externally with a hose. This has the same effect as removing the separator seal all together but you retain it to support the rack shaft in a centered position. Without it in there you are only riding on the pinion gear and the shaft seal at the end.