Randy_J

Gents – need some advice on removing the motor with bellhousing attached from my 951S – going to do a motor swap for the 12,000 mile motor I bought off Josh B last fall.

Going to take the motor out from below after raising the car 30"+ but thought I should ask advice on the whole procedure start to finish – so any step by step advice is appreciated! Thanks in advance!

PorscheDoc

Start by removing your radiator and cooling fans, and drop the oil cooler out of its mount. I also remove the PS pulley for that extra inch of clearance. If you are keeping the AC charged, you will need to disconnect and hang the compressor out of the way. I don't even drop the exhaust, you can clear the downpipe. Other than that, it is just a bunch of removing hoses, wiring, etc.

87944turbo

This is Skip Wolfe's writeup from another site. Pretty complete from what I can remember when I pulled one back in December. This writeup is desiged from dropping the engine while it is still attached to the crossmember along with some of the front suspension and the steering rack.

- Airbox/snorkle
- Intercooler hardpipes
- Throttle cable

- Radiator hoses
- Fan wiring
- Coolant tank hoses
- Pull radiator
- Coolant hoses to/from heater

- Supply and return fuel lines from fuel rail

- Remove Wastegate
- Cat bypass pipe to exhaust bolts

- Alternator wiring
- DME/KLR wiring harness - feed though firewall
- Battery cables through battery box wall
- Coil wire
- Horn ground strap on steering rack

- Starter
- Clutch slave cylinder (2)
- Clutch slave cylinder hose attached to back of the bellhousing
- Vacuum line to master cylinder booster

- Torque tube to bell housing bolts (4)

- Cruise control cable

- Steering shaft from rack
- PS cooler loop bracket
- Swaybar body mounts
- Strut mount bolts (4)
- Caster block bolts (2)
- Crossmember bolts (4)

Matt Sheppard

That's cool - especially about leaving the batt. cables attached, but it's still hung up by the oil cooler at this point.

I like to drop it this way with the cross-member and unbolt the suspension at the inside as the engine is easier to balance with it on. You really need to be careful of not letting the engine rest on the exhaust crossover or roll onto the headers - this is why I think most people get cracked or broken 2/3 headers from.

I made a semi-triangle shaped piece of 3/4" ply from scrap that I bolt to the starter mount that extends even horizontally with the crossmember so I can lower a motor onto a flat dolly or floor without crunching anything.

*Understand, an NA doesnt have a crossover so a write up on how to pull a motor doesnt take exhaust plumbing into account. No, you cant just drop it on a sheet of cardboard like an NA. Regardless of how you do it, weight wise the motor is going to want to roll <back> from the cross-member and <right> onto the headers when free of the engine hoist so be ready. Exhaust leaks suck!

MM951

Know of any way to check if the headers or x-over is cracked before putting them back in?

Maybe seal off the 2 other holes in each manifold (1-4 or 2-3) and putting some compressed air in? I have a feeling I may have knocked my manifold a little hard with the rubber mallet

KuHL 951

Seal the downstream ends very well with duct tape; invert them and carefully top off with water without spilling and look for leaks. Repeat with tape at the exhuast/head end to check all the welds at the head side.

MM951

Even simpler, thanks steve

chrly924s

I used Wolfe's method when I pulled one back in January. However, I took the struts off to get them out of the way. Worked great.

Randy_J

Thanks to all for the tips! I will drop the engine with the crossmember attached cause the replacement from Josh B came with the crossmember etc all in place! It's more the sequence of events that I'm concerned about - inevitably, I find that when I'm wrenching these cars, you really need to go step A, B, C etc. getting out of sequence, I've had to re-assemble to retrace the steps all too often!

Maybe I should take pics of the re & re....