ZPmadA

Hi all,
I've been trying to remove my front struts tonight. I have the top disconnected and the strut fell down. I figured I should reattach that and do the lower two bolts first so the strut doesnt move around. I cannot get these two bolts off. I don't have an air compressor so an air impact wrench (as stated in clarks-garage) is out of the question. I am trying to use a breaker bar. I have a 17mm socket and a fairly short socket extension so the breaker bar is sort of at an angle to clear the brake rotor. I'm going to get a longer extension tomorrow at Sears unless you guys would advise against a breaker bar. Let me know how you would remove the front strut without an impact wrench?

A final question. Clarks garage says "The top bolt is an eccentric bolt which provides for adjustment of the wheel camber. Using a paint pen, scribe, or brightly colored nail polish, mark the orientation of the eccentric bolt to the strut." Is this necessary if I'm removing the struts and shipping them out to rebuild? I'm going to need to align the wheels with rebuilt struts anyway, right? And this eccentric bolt is holding the strut mount to the strut? (1986 turbo)

Thanks,
Adam

Techno Duck

Ive done it a few times only using a breaker bar. Its a bit of a challenge to get it oriented correctly so you have enough space to work, but its doable with my Craftsman 15-inch breaker bar. I typically use a short 17mm socket on the top of the bolt head and a 19mm wrench on the nut. The bottom bolt is the same thing, 17mm bolt head and a 19mm nut. Try both ways, ive done it without using extensions, just regular length sockets. If the bolts have not been loosened in a while they can be a pain in the butt to loosen. Persistence is everything.. just be mindful of the socket slipping off the bolt due to the angle..you can get some real bloody knuckles this way .

If your alignment was good to begin with and you scribe the marks, you should be able to get the camber set pretty darn close to where it was originally. Personally if you cant remember the last time you had a wheel alignment, i would just get one done when you have everything back together.

ZPmadA

I have the front struts out. Both are blown. I'm thinking the ride height adjustment kit (ARHK) is the cause. I'm trying to remove the strut mount now. Clarks-garage once again says I need an impact wrench to get this nut off.

From Clarks:
"If you attempt to use a regular socket and ratchet to remove the strut assembly top plate retaining nut, the strut rod will simply spin as you turn the retaining nut. An air impact wrench is needed to spin the nut fast enough to break the nut free without spinning the strut rod."

This is the problem I'm having. Is there any alternative to the impact wrench?

75ohm

If you are pitching the strut or are converting it as to disregard potential damage... it is possible to grab ahold of the strut rod with a pair of vice grips, no?

DarylJ

The other thing to try - if you are heading to sears anyway - is a hand impact. They are great for when you don't have air. Not sure if it will work for this, but it has saved me a few times.

I lost track of mine a few years back and needed one a couple months ago.....picked it up on sale for $20 at Sears. I needed to take the screws out of my starter solenoid (it's what they used to get it off at the place that rebuilt it - but the put it back in 1/3 rotation off so the cables didn't reach!!!!).

ZPmadA

I'm getting these struts rebuilt so I want to avoid damaging them.

J Silverman

What kind of struts do you have? The OEM sachs and also bilstein struts have a slot to put on allen wrench in the top of the strut. You use a 60deg offset box wrench on the nut, and then hold the shaft with the allen wrench. If its a koni strut you have to use a pair of vice grips on the tab that the adjuster **** goes on to. If you have Konis, its not any cheaper to rebuild v. buying a new set.

ZPmadA

I have the M474 option. I believe that is the koni sport package. Each strut is around $400 at pelican. Around $800 for both vs. $150 each ($300 both) rebuilt.