FRporscheman

I don't know what that ticking is. My own 968 makes no such noise. On my mom's car, this ticking is not there when it's cold, but it manifests as it warms up. I got the oil warmed up all the way, and the noise doesn't go away...

I put some cheap shell oil in there just to get the motor started and stuff. It was running on syn blend before. When I change the oil a few days from now, I will look very carefully for metal bits. I don't think I'll be seeing copper, but still.

Scott at Team Harco

Sorry I'm so late to the party.....


Rod, who?





Seriously folks - I'm about to replace my rod bearings tonight. I waited for the weather to get up to 94 F just for the occasion. I'll let you know if I encounter any snags or have any useful tips to pass along.

The front suspension, steering rack, crossmember and oil pan are all off the car already. Did all of that stuff on Sunday before I had to go out of town for three days. Get to finish the first portion of my task list (rod bearings and pan gasket) tonight. Don't anticipate any issues. Hopefully there won't be any.

StoogeMoe

Hope you find the knock, or that was just a lot of work. You might want to check the wrist pin side of the rod while you have it apart. If those are bad, then you'll have even more work to do!

Scott at Team Harco

Did the rod bearings last night. No problem. Just take your time and make sure you are careful not to scratch the journals. Make sure the bearings fit in in the correct orientation and be sure to torque everything evenly and to the proper spec.

One tip: If you're a mouth breather - this job should be left to someone else.

Got the pan gasket and pan on too. Get to put some fresh oil in and a new filter on tonight and fire it up.

inactiveuser92616

Update: I always wanted to join another club, and now I have. The failed rod bearing #2 club. The damage does not look too bad, but the crank will need to come out and either get polished or ground. The surface finish on the journal is marred, but still smoothish. The bearing was still there but eroded and smeared a bit. I will be taking the crank (or my parts car crank) into the shop tommorow hopefully to get it checked out. Got quoted $110 for crank rework/grind and $14/rod by Carquest (who outsources). This seems way below the $400 I read about on here! Good news I suppose.

Any opinions on whether or not to go for the full out tear apart? I have found a cumulative ~1/2 teaspoon of bearing particles. It seems to me that oil filters are designed to... dare I say... filter?

Mike C.

Pull the engine. It's not that much more work than what you have to do to pull the pan. You can rent or buy one of those cherry picker style lifts pretty cheap.

inactiveuser92616

the engine is sitting on a stand right now, upside down. I am debating whether to pull off all the oil containing components such as the cooler, lifters, pump, regulator, etc.

KuHL 951

IMO since the engine is on a stand anyway you need to flush all the oil passages very well. That would involve as you say removal of any parts exposed to the bearing dust and larger particles. I ended up doing main bearings and rings also since the thrust bearing on mine was showing copper on one side and the crank endplay was much closer to the upper limit than the lower one. How do your bores look?

inactiveuser92616

the bores are very nice! quite impressed. The rings I suspect are worn out, the leakdown numbers were indicating around 8% last time I checked and the fresh head is carbonized. Overall not much damage at all, some surface marring on the one journal and a scuff on the piston where it hit the head. I will take the piston scuff out with a dremel polishing tip.

VaSteve

Just doing a search and this thread came up. F-in hilarious..

Dal Heger

HELL YES!

IF you're gonna do it, do it right, or you'll be doing it again very soon.

Flush everything, degrease it, then flush it again. Flush it some more. Take the whole engine apart, you have it on the stand, don't do a half-assed job.

Dal.