Changing the hatch pins
#3
Just replaced my originals with the new stainless pins. The originals would not budge from the rubber encased nuts, no matter how many times I soaked them with penetrant. I bought new nuts from the dealer. (These are encased in rubber and are easily removed from the mounts once you remove the mounts using a 6mm tripple square bit. I bought a Lisle 60750 four piece set at Pep Boys for $11.) The new pins were very difficult to screw into the new nuts, though the regular (lock) nuts on the pins screwed on easily. I think the rubber encased nuts have a paricularly tight thread (even though the threads were not coated in rubber. I worked-in the threads a bit using a standard 8mm - 1.25 bolt, which screwed in a bit easier than the stainless pins. Then I coated the threads with anti-seize before screwing in the pins. Still hard to turn, but it got the job done. The new pins are adjustable as they should be.
Last edited by cb951; 07-21-2007 at 03:00 PM. Reason: typo
#6
As you all may know, the stainless pieces will be a tighter fit due to the tolerances at play, but they will fit.
When I put my valve cover bolts in from sharky, I thought it was going to strip the holes out the tolerances were so tight. You can't wiggle the bolts in the holes, where as the factory ones can wiggle! I haven't bought the hatch pins yet, but I do have a hood pin. Great products!
When I put my valve cover bolts in from sharky, I thought it was going to strip the holes out the tolerances were so tight. You can't wiggle the bolts in the holes, where as the factory ones can wiggle! I haven't bought the hatch pins yet, but I do have a hood pin. Great products!