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Changing the hatch pins

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Old 07-21-2007 | 01:50 PM
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Default Changing the hatch pins

I recieved my hatch pins from sharky today, are these as easy as unscrewing the top retaining nut and unscrewing the pins ??
Old 07-21-2007 | 02:27 PM
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If you're lucky, yes. Mine, no. They were so rusted in that I had to break them out and replace the top nut/rubber mount. Good luck.
Old 07-21-2007 | 02:59 PM
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Just replaced my originals with the new stainless pins. The originals would not budge from the rubber encased nuts, no matter how many times I soaked them with penetrant. I bought new nuts from the dealer. (These are encased in rubber and are easily removed from the mounts once you remove the mounts using a 6mm tripple square bit. I bought a Lisle 60750 four piece set at Pep Boys for $11.) The new pins were very difficult to screw into the new nuts, though the regular (lock) nuts on the pins screwed on easily. I think the rubber encased nuts have a paricularly tight thread (even though the threads were not coated in rubber. I worked-in the threads a bit using a standard 8mm - 1.25 bolt, which screwed in a bit easier than the stainless pins. Then I coated the threads with anti-seize before screwing in the pins. Still hard to turn, but it got the job done. The new pins are adjustable as they should be.

Last edited by cb951; 07-21-2007 at 03:00 PM. Reason: typo
Old 07-21-2007 | 03:04 PM
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^^^

Exact same thing to a T.
Old 07-21-2007 | 05:23 PM
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Thanks guys I will give it a try.
Old 07-21-2007 | 10:47 PM
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As you all may know, the stainless pieces will be a tighter fit due to the tolerances at play, but they will fit.

When I put my valve cover bolts in from sharky, I thought it was going to strip the holes out the tolerances were so tight. You can't wiggle the bolts in the holes, where as the factory ones can wiggle! I haven't bought the hatch pins yet, but I do have a hood pin. Great products!



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