I am going to Post what I have tried from Clarks Garage:

One thing to note is that when I manually turn the headlight motor it does not spring to life and cycle through the rotation. I checked Ohm's from the fuse to the switch, and the fuse to the headlight motor. both have tiny resistance.
for some reason though I am only getting .5V when the lights are on so I am not telling the headlight motor to actuate. any Ideas?


If you've ever tried to operate raise the headlights manually, you probably found that when you reached a certain point raising the headlights that they automatically went back down. That's because the headlight concealing motor energizes to both raise and lower the headlights. As you rotate the dial on the motor, you also move the rotary switch. With the S1 switch closed, when the rotary switch contact is made, the motor energizes and returns to the closed position. If you wish to raise the headlights manually, you must remove Fuse #1 on the auxiliary fuse panel for early 944s or Fuse #2 on the main fuse panel for later model 944s. C.F.

Notes Regarding the 1985 1/2 and more Recent Models

Similarities & Differences Between Early/Late Models:

Basic principles of Operation are the Same
The Grey control wire is now Yellow/Blue
The control wires are now fused
The Red/Green wire requires a 7.5 A fuse in holder no.16
The Yellow/Blue wire takes a 7.5 A fuse in holder no.37 This on is trouble
The Red/Blue supply wire takes a 25 A fuse in holder no. 2
These fuses must be checked before undertaking any repairs
All fuses are fine. I popped them twice by touching the wrong pins together on the headlight wiring.
Repair Procedures


Headlights turn on but do not move
Check Fuses. On the '85 1/2 and later models, the control wires are fused too. The headlight motor assembly will probably have to be removed from the car. First, disconnect the 4-pin connector to the motor. Check the voltages on the conductors.

Motor or ignition on Light switch off. Brown and grey: 0 volts, Red/Green and Red/Blue: 12 volts I get 9V
Motor or ignition on Light switch on. Brown and Red/Green: 0 volts. Grey and Red/Blue: 12 volts. I get .5V
Motor or ignition off Light switchoff . Brown and grey : 0 volts. Red/Green and Red/Blue : 12 volts. I get 9V

If the voltages are not as above, the problem lies in the headlight relay or dash switch.Dash switch works fine. I get 12V from the wire that should lift the headlights (Yellow/blue wire to ground sees 12V after the switch when the lights are on) Remove and check them with an ohmmeter. Check the continuity of the conductors. Have fun !!
If the voltages have the prescribed values, remove the motor assembly. The unit will have to be bench-tested.
Bench-testing the motor unit
Remove unit from car.
Disconnect motor shaft from linkage.
Remove four-pin electrical connector from motor assembly
Remove the three screws holding the unit to the car
Remove the rubber covers from the motor assembly
Do a visual/electrical check of components
Check condition of the relay points. If they are burned, file the points or replace the relay.
Check continuity of relay coil with an ohmmeter. The wire is fine and can easily break. The resistance of the coil is about 65 Ohms. If there is no continuity, the relay will need to be replaced.
If the above checks out all right, remove the relay block from the motor.
Check the male and female connectors in the four-pin connector for damage. You may need to bring the unit to your local supplier to get compatible connectors if they are damaged.
Check wiring of the relay block. Wiring on the relay block is fine. all connections had almost no resistance
terminals 1 & 3: To motor and Red/Blue.

terminals 2 & 5: To the relay coil, from ground and center brush on rotary switch

terminal 5: No connection.

Remove the rotary switch cover and check the brushes.
If a brush is damaged, it can be removed by de-soldering it from the external wire. You may be able to get a replacement from an appliance repairman or to fashion one from a piece of flat brass. The amount of current flowing through these brushes is negligible if everything is working properly. Therefore, the construction of these brushes, apart from their length, is not critical.

Test the motor
This is probably the least likely area of failure. Remove the motor relay from the relay block by prying gently with a screwdriver. Fit a spade-type female connector to a piece of wire and insert it into the relay side of terminal 1 or 3 (whichever will connect to the green motor wire). Connect the case of the motor to the negative terminal of a battery or battery charger and the other wire to the positive terminal. If the motor does not turn, look for a poor connection, otherwise, a new motor is required. I hooked the motor up to 12V. it ran fine.

 

carl had a problem similar- i checked and there was two fuses related to the headlights- his was blown to the motor- put a fuse in- didnt work- checked the wires going to the motor and they had been broken under the rubber cover- re-spliced wires and she worked great- oh and he also had the linkage on backwards and they would flip up when you turned them off!

 

hmm my wires going to the 4 pin connector on the side of the motor are crappy and have some exposed wire areas. maybe I am shorting out on each other. The wires seem fine on the actual side of the motor(under the relay socket)

where are the grounds for the headlight motor located at? maybe cleaning those up would help.

 

cleaned up the grounds and now I get 12V. everything is operating normal.

 

nice- i love simple fixes.

 

I have a similar problem ('90 S2) - everything works fine except when it is cold (40F or colder). When cold, the lights will not pop up (down works, up not so much). Getting tired of manually raising them in the dark, cold, snow and rain. Bad relay perhaps?