snyper238

my clutch went out on my ac compressor and I was wondering if anyone else has had this problem and how they fixed it.

Also I was curious about just buying an AC delete kit and was wondering what your opinions were on that.

Or if someone has a compressor they are selling that would be cool.

my email is tony@freelowell.com

951Tom

You can replace the clutch separately if you DIY. Most shops will not want to do this, instead they'll want to replace the whole compressor with a rebuilt unit. I love my a/c and would only delete it on a track car.

snyper238

ha yea the compressor has never worked on my car so I haven't ever had AC but I would like it.

Where can I find a new clutch at? I am doing this myself and was hoping I could replace just the clutch. Thanks for your help.

VWaddict

Can I add a "Me Too" for information on how to replace the clutch... I think mine is screwed also... No "click" and no A/C even though charge seems okay... Should I see if there's a voltage at the 'clutch solenoid' or something nefore I go further...?

Keith

sillbeer

replacing the clutch is fairly easy. heres how to do it: go to autozone or some parts supply store and rent the a/c clutch face plate remover. You will see that where the small nut in the center of the compressor there is a threaded portion of the face plate. The tool threads in there and pushes the plate off. Then you will remove a snap ring. Once that is off, then you will need a different puller to pull the pulley off. You will need to remove a second snap ring to remove the pulley. Once those two are off, you can then carefully pry the electromagnet off. its pretty straightforward.

snyper238

Well I am pretty sure my compressor is bad anyway so I was thinking today that I may as well just replace it.

Maybe I should change the title of the thread to WTB: AC Compressor

951Tom

A good site compliments of a fellow lister. Our clutch is similiar.

http://members.rennlist.com/elsies91...nsoRebuild.htm

mtccl

For a few dollars more you can replace the entire compressor with a rebuilt unit.

No cycling even with a good A/C charge is the inline pressure sensor cutout switch near the evaporator canister. Long switch in the A/C high side line with wired connector.

jtsporsche

ok, i didnt want to start a new thread so i searched, and this is the best i could find, still way off though.

i bought a new compressor and i need to know how to swap the old one out. clarks-garage doesnt help.
does anybody know how, or konw of a write up on this?

jtsporsche

any one?? summers almost her ya know

944Time

I don't know if this counts as 'good'

http://www.944time.com/porsche/944-a...nditioning.php

If the clutch doesn't engage, it could be because there is low
pressure in the system. Jumper the low pressure cutoff switch
(it's near the left headlight) and try again.

griffiths

Trouble shooting:
http://www.griffiths.com/achelp/achelp2.html

Alternative to rebuilding:
http://www.griffiths.com/shop/index....th=15_16_52_62

mtccl

evacuate A/C system (do not release into air to be legal)
disconnect single wire (12Vdc) running from compressor to upper left (drivers) fender connector
remove Alternator-A/C compressor tensioner
remove belt (just off the A/C pulley)
remove 10mm front bolt compressor
remove 8mm rear bolt on compressor
Lower the compressor from mounting bracket (careful the hoses are still connected)
remove high & low side hoses from compressor
replace all gaskets on hose fittings
add 2 to 4 ounces appropriate PAG/Ester oil to compressor (bench prep)
Check plug compatibility on 1 wire electric wire running from compressor.
reinstall opposite of removal
Replace in line drier near drivers headlight. (replacing drier will ensure all moisture in the unsealed system is gone. Failure to replace the drier may result in compressor failure due to moisture).

IMPORTANT: system must be drawn down to vacuum and hold vacuum (approx 23mm/hg) prior to recharging system. DO NOT use a cheap recharge system without drawing a vacuum. Compressor failure with occur.

If you have A/C gauges, a vacuum pump then you can do the following:
Connect A/C gauges to Hi & Lo pressure ports
Open both ports at gauge valve. (Open port valves if installed)
Connect vacuum pump to accessory line on A/C gauges (yellow hose)
draw vacuum on system (I've heard everything from 1 hour to overnight; ensure all moisure is drawn out of system)
Ensure system holds vacuum (should read -23mm/HG on low gauge)
Close Hi side port at the hose/gauge assembly (port valve should remain open to allow gauge reading on HI side port)
Start car, fans on HI, A/C on, Temp COLD, doors or windows open
Locate A/C inline LOW pressure cutoff switch near drivers headlight and place a jumper wire between the contacts.
Connect first can of R134a to charging hose (yellow hose) open can and allow it to charge thru the LO side port only. CAUTION: charging thru the HI side port may cause can rupture. HI side port must be closed at gauge valve.
Connect a can of 8oz Oil Charge (PAG/Esther oil) and charge oil into system.
Continue to charge system with R134a until approx. 33oz of R134a are in the system.
Check gauge readings (LO approx 20-30, HI approx 180-200)
Enjoy!!

jtsporsche

THANK YOU.

griffiths

hmmmmmm..... for a DIY ? First time out of the gate? NOT!
He could probably do the mechanicals, however the recovery, charge and test would be less painful if handled by the shop.

and, if you follow the directions above:
A) your evaporator core will be oil soaked... way too much oil. And, don't mix PAG and Ester, determine what type is in the system first and stick with that.
B) no hint about inspection for prior contamination, does not make sense to put a new or rebuilt unit in a vehicle with possible contamination
C) no notice of can right side up (vapor) or upside down (liquid)
D) replacing a drier does not insure moisture is gone
E) the depth of the vacuum, and altitude ....relative to the the ambient air temp determines when moisture's evaporation point starts, however neither guarantees total removal of moisture, its a matter of all plus time and purging
F) you don't need to jump the switch if you have allowed enough refrigerant into the system to overcome the low side cut out
G) you can charge by liquid if you know what you are doing
H) you don't need to leave the windows open unless you are doing a major stress test or you want to listen to tunes
I) the pressures noted mean nothing unless they correspond to a Pressures and Temperatures chart for a specific refrigerant

OMG