1986951

Porsche 968...
New Clutch, Pressure Plate, and DM Flywheel...

All new clutch Hydraulics from Master Cylinder thru Slave Cylinder...

Master Cylinder Pushord from Firewall to Clevis center set to 147 mm...

Pedal Return Spring set to 65 mm...

New ATE Super Blue thru out...

Bled three times with Motive Power Bleeder and by "Press, Hold, Release method"

Pedal still refuses to consistently return to pedal stop... Mostly after starting off in 1st gear, but sometimes at other shifts... no real pattern to it... seems to happen more often if clutch is "eased" out.. fast shifts work better...

Could it be that the "Pedal Return Spring" is just worn out???

Clutch actually works fine, but this is just annoying!!! Ideas Please!!!

jpk

I just went through this. There's still air in the system. It's a bit of a pain to get it all out.

What eneded up working for me was to remove the slave, and pump the piston from underneth the car, kind of like as if someone was pumping the pedal in the car, but opposite (you're pulling the fluid into the slave with the piston extension and pushing it out the bleeder when you compess it) I had the motive on while doing this, but at a relatively low pressure (just 4-5 psi)

You can't really fully remove the slave while the line is attached, but you can pump the body of it in/out with the pin against the clutch fork.

951Tom

This was on my 951, but before I bought a Motive, I had great success pumping in fluid thru the slave bleeder with one of those little oil pump cans and a little hose.

KuHL 951

Be very careful overextending the piston on the slave if you do this method. The seal will travel to sections of the bore that are normally unused and not as smooth. This has torn up the seal on more than one car, especially if the slave is the old one with slight corrosion on the unused part of the bore. I also replaced the return spring at the top of the pedal and it didn't really help to return the pedal...you still have air in the system.

1986951

Yep, I am in agreement; still an air bubble or two in the clutch hydraulics...
So, as indicated by the post by JPK, I was planning on the following... Yes, No, Maybe???

Something along the following lines... have a "Helper" depress the Clutch Pedal, and HOLD...
I will then open the Slave Bleeder, release fluid, and look for bubbles as the Clutch Pedal is released. All of the time the system is slightly pressurized by the Power Bleeder, keeping the Reservoir always topped up...

Anything I'm missing? Thanks folks!

Repeat at least three cycles and see how the pedal performs then...

StoogeMoe

That spring is not a return spring, it is a helper spring to make the clutch pedal effort lighter. It pushes down, not up. One thing that may be binding up your pedal is the nylon bushings on the pedal for the helper spring. They can get worn or get dry and impede the return. Also make sure the shaft of the helper spring is lubed so it can slide easily in the nylon end.

Otherwise I agree with the comments above and suggest you still have air in the system.

1986951

Well, I did the "re-bleed" as stated above, and the pedal action improved significantly, tho not always 100%..I would give it a 98.5%! There still may be a "whiff" of a bubble somewhere in the system, tho it drives great and shifts fine...
I think I will drive it for a bit, and see if it can work itself out, or not...
If I have to crawl underneath again, no problem!

chrly924s

I just finished this onhj one of my cars this afternoon. The pedal would never return to the top. After motive bleeding twice along with the brake system (lots of 20 year old stuff) it would come up 95% of the time, but felt hesitant to return the last couple of inches. I took the drivers seat out so I cound get up under the dash and see what I was doing (I wear progessive bifocals). The free play was just a little too much. after adjusting that a couple of mm's it is back like new.

KuHL 951

Actually that upper top spring is for pedal return only. You are thinking of the short heavy adjustable spring for pedal effort. The one at the top of the pedal is about 2" long and is a bitch to get on there. Other than that I agree with your comments.