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I Need a Hood Painted Can Any One Help?

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Old 05-24-2007, 04:43 PM
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reno808
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Default I Need a Hood Painted Can Any One Help?

I have a white 931 hood that needs to be Red. Any one know of a place i can go to get it painted i was thinking Mayco they are cheap. I am thinking of painting the whole car next year so i dont want a expensive paint job.
Thanks
Old 05-24-2007, 09:01 PM
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SpecialtyConcreteCoatings
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go to a body shop. try to talk to an employee, not the owner. then ask them if they do side work. that **** works all over the place.
Old 05-24-2007, 09:18 PM
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billthe3
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If you do go to a cheap place but want a quality job, plan on doing the prep work yourself. Basically you'll take it to them to spray the paint, but you do everything else.
Old 05-24-2007, 09:36 PM
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Zporsche944
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if you have a DA sander and a good aircompressor you can scuff up the paint in no time... other wise scotchbrite pads work well... but nearly every body man will do side work
Old 05-25-2007, 12:31 AM
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fwb42
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A little late now,but you should try your local high school auto body class. Ours does reasonable work,but you must remember they are learning..We are blessed with a great( former body man) instructor. FRED
Old 05-25-2007, 12:41 AM
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944kid
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I can spray it for you, but Nanuet is too far from me. If by "I don't want an expensive paint job" you mean spray cans.

Are you talking Guards red, Garnet red metallic, or something custom? Because I could only do the Guards red out of a can...and it wouldn't match either. Not to mention it would scratch slightly easier because it's a softer grade paint, (as I understand it.) But I can guarantee you, if you could get someone to buff it after I wetsanded it with 2000 grit, I could make it look *damn* pretty in a weekend.

BTW, I'm serious about all of this!
Old 05-25-2007, 12:48 AM
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Andy1212
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How far down should you sand for a repaint? To primer?
Old 05-25-2007, 01:00 AM
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Yes, you never want to go down to the bare metal on these cars, which is what I was told. The galvanized body will be damaged and your car will be more susceptable to rust. Of course, you can always rely on a good primer/sealer over it, but you really don't want to take your chances, especially with a cheap paint job!
Old 05-25-2007, 01:48 AM
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reno808
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944kid if you do it how much would it be? its just a reg guards red. have any pics of your work??
Old 05-25-2007, 01:55 AM
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Andy1212
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I know that you shouldnt take it down to bare metal, but how much?
Old 05-25-2007, 09:07 AM
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944kid
pm sent
Old 05-25-2007, 09:11 AM
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thoen
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is the sanding done with a sander or by hand. does the whole car need to be primed or just the repaired areas for it to be considered preped?
Old 05-25-2007, 03:54 PM
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944kid
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Originally Posted by reno808
944kid if you do it how much would it be? its just a reg guards red. have any pics of your work??

In the great Rennlist spirit, if you bring it to me over the summer, (I'm tied down with school right now), I'd do it for cost of the paint and paper (sand paper) plus a drink or two. (Soda, the minor's choice of beverage. ) Right now I work during the weekends,and during the week I can't make time with out-patient therapy and tutoring, both of which are sorry to say, more important than painting a hood.

"How soon would you want this done," is the more important question.

This is one picture of a car I painted a while ago and haven't yet finished yet. The paint is a satin finish, but because I wet sand between each coat, it ends up looking shiny. In order to finish this, I'd put at least three coats of a glossy white, and at least 4 coats of clear.



For something this small, a can of paint can last for ~2-3 coats; for a hood, I'd invest in 6 cans, (for the top, maybe 2 or 3 for the reverse if you want it to match), if you wet sand in between coats. 4 cans should be sufficient for something not being wet sanded, since none of the material is being taken away between each coat.

The R/C car I painted has got to have a solid 4 coats of satin white on it already...I used it as a primer, before I found a primer that was from the same brand. (Never mix paint brands, I had one coat on this not aadhere to the surface and I had to start all over on one of the doors. *Thankfully* it was just a door!)

Andy- Take it down to the primer, leaving a little colour on. This way when it looks thin, you know you haven't gone down to the primer, but you've taken the thickness away from the colour coat -which would other wise make the car's paint look "fat" or "soft." Take care to not burn through the paint around edges and body lines, of course, too!

Thoen- I'll PM in a bit, but to answer your question, sanding can be done by both hand or sander. I prefer doing it by hand, but I've only worked on smaller pieces before. The sander leaves swirl marks in the paint if you aren't using the right grit paper, and I found when painting later, the swirls were more pronounced if I didn't use a primer. (I found this out on the car above, those 4 coats of satin white equal one coat of primer, since primer is thicker and covers better. Lesson learned!)

If you sand by hand, using a block is HIGHLY recommended. If you sand using just your hand, you risk burning through the paint in some areas and not covering other areas adequately enough. I purposely did this once, to see if it was really accurate or not, and when I was done you could see five distinct lines where my fingers were!
Old 05-25-2007, 04:16 PM
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thoen
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i would love to drop over during the summer. how much time would be involved if the scratches and dings are already done. should i sand the whole car before i come. you MUST charge me so that i wouldn't feel guilty.
ernest
Old 05-25-2007, 04:23 PM
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reno808
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944kid your hired. I would like it by the end of june beg of july. i'll bring it over to you


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