Theoretical rebuild..
05-23-2007, 02:30 PM
#31
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Originally Posted by pjburges
Allllll of that, and my car can cosistently do 0-60 in 7.0 flat. Thats still just not very fast. If I were to guess my cars HP at the wheels (havent tested it) it would probably be in the low to mid 140's.
05-23-2007, 02:39 PM
#32
Yup. I see this all the time on the Honda forums. They want to take a run of the mill civic and make it fast. I never understand why. Why would you start with a slow car and try to make it fast? like mentioned earlier, start with a quick car and make THAT faster. Too many people want to use the wrong tool for the job, this being a 20 year old 8V 2.5L that only makes 140hp. Hell, even my daily beater prelude runs runs low 15's bone stock. Now, thats not really fast, but for a heavy (over 3,000 lb) front wheel drive torqueless honda daily driver, thats not bad. Its certainly faster than any 8V 944. Maybe even the 2.7L's too. The motor makes 195Hp from 2.2 liters. Thats also not bad. I think the best bang for the buck if you want to go fast in an N/A 944 is an LS1 swap. It can be done for around 4,000-6,000. Once you are done you will have a 300hp 944 thats reliable and cheaper to maintain. Otherwise, just drive it stock and know that it will never be fast, its just fun to drive.
05-23-2007, 09:13 PM
#33
Going with the pack
is quite monotonous.
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is quite monotonous.
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Ok - the teenager point I made - is because the questions are all the same.
I won't say I didn't wonder/ask the same stuff - but your n/a is just slow. Deal with it or get something else. The point of the car isn't to go blasting down the street in a straight line anyway.
I won't say I didn't wonder/ask the same stuff - but your n/a is just slow. Deal with it or get something else. The point of the car isn't to go blasting down the street in a straight line anyway.
05-23-2007, 10:22 PM
#34
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Originally Posted by 82-T/A
Why a Civic? There are many MANY cooler cars to drop huge engines into and turbo charge. Why would you waste ANY money on a front wheel drive economy car?
For that kind of money, you could drop a 4.9 Cadillac V8 into the back of a Fiero, or turbo charge a Fiero, or any other number of better cars.
And at the end of the day, you're still driving around a teenager's car.
Todd,
2006 Pontiac Solstice
2004 Volkswagen Beetle Convertible (Wife's)
2002 Ford Crown Victoria LX-P74
1987 Pontiac Fiero SE / V6
1984 Porsche 944
1981 Pontiac Trans Am WS6
1973 Volkswagen Type-2 Transporter
For that kind of money, you could drop a 4.9 Cadillac V8 into the back of a Fiero, or turbo charge a Fiero, or any other number of better cars.
And at the end of the day, you're still driving around a teenager's car.
Todd,
2006 Pontiac Solstice
2004 Volkswagen Beetle Convertible (Wife's)
2002 Ford Crown Victoria LX-P74
1987 Pontiac Fiero SE / V6
1984 Porsche 944
1981 Pontiac Trans Am WS6
1973 Volkswagen Type-2 Transporter
05-23-2007, 10:34 PM
#35
Official Bay Area Patriot
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Platinum plugs are the worst plugs you can put in a 944. That's an immediate choke on power.
3" exhaust is NOT necessary on this 8-valve motor regardless of bore and stroke.
Euro pistons help with mid-range, torque and HP, but Euro cars only make 165 HP>
Max Theoretical HP 165-175 Flywheel HP only to be restricted by the factory Bosch L-Jetronic Fuel Injection
3" exhaust is NOT necessary on this 8-valve motor regardless of bore and stroke.
Euro pistons help with mid-range, torque and HP, but Euro cars only make 165 HP>
Max Theoretical HP 165-175 Flywheel HP only to be restricted by the factory Bosch L-Jetronic Fuel Injection
05-23-2007, 10:37 PM
#36
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Originally Posted by StoogeMoe
I can get my 83 944 with my slightly modified engine to accelerate 0-60mph in less than 3 seconds. But I can only do it once. What's my secret?
05-23-2007, 10:59 PM
#37
Rainman
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Originally Posted by Mongo
Platinum plugs are the worst plugs you can put in a 944. That's an immediate choke on power.
3" exhaust is NOT necessary on this 8-valve motor regardless of bore and stroke.
Euro pistons help with mid-range, torque and HP, but Euro cars only make 165 HP>
Max Theoretical HP 165-175 Flywheel HP only to be restricted by the factory Bosch L-Jetronic Fuel Injection
3" exhaust is NOT necessary on this 8-valve motor regardless of bore and stroke.
Euro pistons help with mid-range, torque and HP, but Euro cars only make 165 HP>
Max Theoretical HP 165-175 Flywheel HP only to be restricted by the factory Bosch L-Jetronic Fuel Injection
Could the power be increased if the L-Jet was replaced with something else? (Aftermarket computer/injection system)
05-23-2007, 11:51 PM
#38
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Platinum is less conductive than copper. Ironically, platinum is used most often in vehicles for longevity due to its low conduction, hence also why you see cars with 100,000 mile spark plug intervals i.e. Mercedes Benz cars. Platinum is actually colder for the motor than hotter. Ironically, the $1.00 Bosch Super Copper spark plugs for our car are actually the recommended ones by Porsche.
Changing to a standalone engine management system such as TEC2, TEC3, Megasquirt, MOTEC, etc. will yield significant power gains if tuned right. I am researching this further because of the idea of individual throttle bodies coming into my head during a 15 minute break at work
Changing to a standalone engine management system such as TEC2, TEC3, Megasquirt, MOTEC, etc. will yield significant power gains if tuned right. I am researching this further because of the idea of individual throttle bodies coming into my head during a 15 minute break at work
05-24-2007, 12:11 AM
#39
Rainman
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Yea, you told me about that when you dropped off the latches...hey, if you end up doing the ITB project and get a special fuel system, you better make it a project thread. If you make significant power gains don't be mad when I steal your set-up out of your garage.
05-24-2007, 09:49 AM
#40
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Originally Posted by gt37vgt
the money would be best spent on fibreglass panels that will reduce your weight buy maybe 12%
giving you like 12 % more power to weight it will turn stop better and use less gas if you have electric seats replace them with some cheap light auto shop ones also really resist breaking the engine open until the very end as the cost just blows as soon as the head leaves the block or block leaves car if you really feel the need to play motors start with airflow metre then exhaust then cam then stop
giving you like 12 % more power to weight it will turn stop better and use less gas if you have electric seats replace them with some cheap light auto shop ones also really resist breaking the engine open until the very end as the cost just blows as soon as the head leaves the block or block leaves car if you really feel the need to play motors start with airflow metre then exhaust then cam then stop
05-24-2007, 06:19 PM
#41
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Originally Posted by redmund
Drop it out of the back of a plane.