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944S2 Cabriolet roof broke 941 561 202 10

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Old 03-08-2008, 06:26 AM
  #16  
deandavis1
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there are fail safe switches in the window frame and two stop switches in the back to make sure this can never happen. If you look at the circuit for the roof shorting the relay will not override this fail safe.

The only danger is you can hit the "Up" switch when the roof is down and driving... this is a BIG problem hence my comment re putting a second "Safety" switch in, and the easiest part of the circuit to wire this into is the top roof micro switches... they do the same thing.
Old 06-10-2008, 04:29 PM
  #17  
S2CabMan
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Seems like lots of s2 cab gurus here. My top mechanically is in great shape. fuses and motors all check out fine. Seems that the switches in the top of the front window frame or the wiring from there to the controls is messed up.

Anyone else have and fix this? Anyone know where and how to find the switches above the windshield to test them?

Thanks
Old 06-11-2008, 06:44 AM
  #18  
deandavis1
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You can test the switches and plugs easily with a multimeter by removing the inside frame cavers around the window. I think for memory you have to take the side ones off first (they unscrew). If it is the switch you can buy a replacement “micro” switch from most electronic stores.

I replaced the micro switch on mounted on the back motor when mine died. Cost about $2.
Old 06-11-2008, 10:03 AM
  #19  
PennyWise
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Has anybody looked at the mechanism and the Porsche warning to keep the difference in the distance between the two arrows less than 5mm between the left and the right side mechanisms?

Last edited by PennyWise; 11-20-2010 at 06:28 AM.
Old 10-17-2008, 03:02 PM
  #20  
JohanvdWalt
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Originally Posted by deandavis1
almost a year and still like new. BTW short the relay output in the fuse area and it allows you to use the roof with/without the key and with the engin going... Thinking of putting a little press momentary switch connected to the microswitches in the window frame to prevent operation while driving.
I really want to do this, can anybody tell me what wire to jump on which relay?
Old 08-03-2009, 02:44 PM
  #21  
Wildstar
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Ugh. I just recently managed to do the same thing to my cab. One of the two transmissions on the top mechanism gave out and before I coud react.. "crack". I'd love to hear how this replacement went. My local dealer want $1000 for the part, plus another $1200 in labor to put it in. I was able to locate the parts on the internet for much cheaper. I'm also looking for instructions how to correctly disassemble the canvas and top mechanism to replace it. Any pointers or suggestions where to look, or what manuals I may need would be appreciated!!!!
Old 08-03-2009, 03:30 PM
  #22  
AZ968Cab
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Went through a top replacement a month ago ($4500+/-) thank God USAA covered it. The damn top put itself down at 75MPH on the I-60 one night.

Broke the main brackets on each side. I was quoted $1500 a piece for them but the top dude send them to be welded. Stronger now than stock and it was about 10% the price (aka he kicked me $1500 back from the insurance)
Old 08-03-2009, 04:22 PM
  #23  
nickg
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Originally Posted by AZ968Cab
Went through a top replacement a month ago ($4500+/-) thank God USAA covered it. The damn top put itself down at 75MPH on the I-60 one night.

Broke the main brackets on each side. I was quoted $1500 a piece for them but the top dude send them to be welded. Stronger now than stock and it was about 10% the price (aka he kicked me $1500 back from the insurance)
they will break again(they always do when welded)....and you get the bad karma of the insurance fraud you just assisted in.....
Old 08-03-2009, 06:26 PM
  #24  
AZ968Cab
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What fraud, they overpaid....
Old 08-04-2009, 10:35 AM
  #25  
nickg
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it is insurance fraud to overcharge for a repair(ie you pocketed 1500) or to perform a repair that is NOT what the company pays for...
hope you saved the $...you will need it for a top
Old 08-04-2009, 12:10 PM
  #26  
944obscene
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Actually, in most cases, the shop can quote for a job, then when they get started and find a better fix, they could do that instead (but that's the shop's discretion). Happened to me when my 951 got backed into, trashing the rear panel and tail-lights. I got a couple hundred from the repair shop and still got everything fixed.

I'm curious... Why doesn't someone make a replacement linkage setup (or transmission, or whatever) and offer it for less than the original part. Can't be too hard to replicate, and make out of parts that could be stronger. It's basically just synchronized linkage isn't it? That way you can supply to the unfortunate folks that run into this problem. It's enough to keep me from ever wanting a 944 cab. $2500, NO THANK YOU!!
Old 08-04-2009, 01:35 PM
  #27  
Clint's 944
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Replacement parts? We don't seem to need them. I tossed two top transmissions after offering them for free! I have a complete top frame that I was asking $200 for and nobody even raised an eyebrow.
Old 08-04-2009, 02:30 PM
  #28  
adrian_jaye
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Johan,

check my site

http://www.playback.demon.co.uk/pors...ojectsmenu.htm



Originally Posted by JohanvdWalt
I really want to do this, can anybody tell me what wire to jump on which relay?
Old 08-04-2009, 05:48 PM
  #29  
nickg
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Originally Posted by Clint's 944
Replacement parts? We don't seem to need them. I tossed two top transmissions after offering them for free! I have a complete top frame that I was asking $200 for and nobody even raised an eyebrow.
me too.... I recycled a barn's worth for scrap not that long ago.
Old 02-23-2012, 07:24 PM
  #30  
calguy
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Default Cabriolet Top Dillema Please Help!

Hey Guys,

I hate to resurrect an old thread like this but I have a similar dilemma.

I bought a used cabrio top (and need to return mine). The top came from a 90-91 944 S2 (my top is original to my car a 92 968).

After installing the top I replaced the rubber seals with those that were on mine. I noticed however that the main bows (both the driver's and passenger's side) on the used top that I bought were at some point welded back together! My car only the driver’s side bow had snapped. I had mended it by putting another piece (like a splinter).

I need to return my top (as a core) but I don’t know whether to take out the passenger bow from my old original top (which hasn’t snapped (and no visible signs of welds) and install that one or leave this top as is.

Any advice??

My motors are synced correctly and DO work. And I DO want to use the top in electronic mode. I’ve read from many postings, including this one, that when used in electric mode they will “snap” again. Has anyone had any luck with using the power top on mended (welded) bows successful without it snapping???

Calguy
‘92 968 Cabriolet
’80 924 N/A Coupe


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