cheapest paint? guards red
#16
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Originally Posted by Porschephile 924
Gaurd's red is expensive. I bought a quart, and it was like $30.00. that said, you do NOT want cheap paint. go out, get the good stuff.
BTW. Porsche's paint code for gaurd's red is G1/G1
this is where I got it: http://painterssupply.net/
I used PPG DCC acrylic urethane single stage (no clear coat) with the PPG DCX61 high solids hardener, and PPG DT870 reducer. Matches perfectly, sprays nicely and works as promised w/ proper flash times and everything.
Good luck!
BTW. Porsche's paint code for gaurd's red is G1/G1
this is where I got it: http://painterssupply.net/
I used PPG DCC acrylic urethane single stage (no clear coat) with the PPG DCX61 high solids hardener, and PPG DT870 reducer. Matches perfectly, sprays nicely and works as promised w/ proper flash times and everything.
Good luck!
#20
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You definitely get what you pay for with automotive paint. As an example, a few years back I switched the Blue Angels from Sherwin Williams Jet Glo to DuPont Imron 6000. Jet glo is fairly well regarded in the aircraft business, but the paint was fading within 3 months or so. Based on catalyst/mix ratios my best guess was that the urethane content was lower than the Imron, but there could have been other issues as well. The imron was more expensive by the gallon but solid content was higher and durability is vastly improved as well as user friendliness and turn around time. They actually saved money with a more expensive product. Just because the label says something doesn't mean its 100% true. Always look at solids content / coverage figures before laying down your money. That being said, lower solids products are prolly easier for the diy guys. One other thing, when it comes to base coat, high solids is not necessarily best like it is with single stage and clears.
#21
Addic
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Originally Posted by Porschephile 924
Which translates to $100/quart...
#22
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A few years ago when I was buying alot of car paint the most expensive color to buy in any brand was red simply because of the cost to manufacture the color red. And I would also say that since it is a popular color they can mark it up more too.
#23
what are you looking for in a paint gob? i was a B.A.S.F. tech rep.witch is glasurit, RM,and limco auto coatings for some years .and have been painting for 30 plus years.own my shop for 11 years . back in the day all solid colors like red , white, black, ext. hade no clear coat and would fade much faster. now most all colors are clear coated it just stands up to weather better.ez to do repair blends i could go on but ! one more plus to clear coat is depth when you look at the paint job close. what it comes down to is , what are you looking for in a paint job? are you going to paint the car your self ? or have a shop do it ?most shops only use there own paint . is this your first time painting? only get the paint from a jobber AKA auto paint store nere you.look in the phone book. the most populer color code for guards red is # L027 or just 027 porsche . porsche starts there color codes with L then 3 digits
#25
I'm having my body guy do it, but I want to get the cheapest price.
Or should I just have the body guy do the body work and take it to the 1 day or earle scheibe type paint shops and get a cheap paint job with a warranty?
Or should I just have the body guy do the body work and take it to the 1 day or earle scheibe type paint shops and get a cheap paint job with a warranty?
#26
all i can say is if a Maaco tipe paint job would make you happy then take your car there .it will be red! and it will be cheep! but it will not hold up to the weather very will .if you want your body guy to do the refinishing then i would go with a lower mid grade paint like limco #3 or duponts full thane the kit ,color, hardener , and reducer should cost about 150 dollars . when buying a paint job ,its like buying wine ,do you like you wine in a box or a good french wine?you still get drunk just one taste better . glasurit paints are all the same price whether its red , white , black , green ,ext. about 125 dollars a QT. it will hold up to the weather for about 10 years with a cheeper paints you might get 3 years . you get what you pay for!
#27
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One of the most abundant compounds on earth is iron-oxide, which would seem to be the primary ingredient in making red pigment. If it's so easy to come by why's it so expensive?!
It's a question I have always wondered and the best answer I have come up with is that most red/gold/yellow vehicles are driven by people with expensive taste who will pay alot for paint...?lame.
It's a question I have always wondered and the best answer I have come up with is that most red/gold/yellow vehicles are driven by people with expensive taste who will pay alot for paint...?lame.
#28
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A little thread hijack here, but there seems to be a lot of experience/ knowledge
I have a red '86 - that's a single stage (no clear coat), right?
Paint is in decent shape, hood is faded but I'll be buffing it out. Then I'll clay bar the whole thing - I'll search for Geoff's writeup on detailing first.
So - I should not spray any kind of a clear coat over it afterwards? Just wax?
Thanks! <bow down> (those gif things don't seem to be working for me today)
I have a red '86 - that's a single stage (no clear coat), right?
Paint is in decent shape, hood is faded but I'll be buffing it out. Then I'll clay bar the whole thing - I'll search for Geoff's writeup on detailing first.
So - I should not spray any kind of a clear coat over it afterwards? Just wax?
Thanks! <bow down> (those gif things don't seem to be working for me today)
#29
Jack, unless you have over spray or somthing like tree sap on your hood then no need to clay it .baby oil works good to remove tree sap that is not dryed on ! on a single stage paint job thats starting to fail (chalk out ) then what we do in my shop is tape off the edge of the hood and the sparp body lines . first, compound with a white foam pad (do not use a white wool pad ,it cuts to fast ) on a buffer at low speed about 1800 rpm to 2000 rpm ,buff a 1 foot by 1 foot area at a time. make it look like what you want ,no haze. then go to the next 1 by 1 spot and do the same . when buffing with a machine start on the upper left side of the hood so the buffing wheel throws the compound on to what has not been buffed yet and hold the buffer flat do not over heet the paint ,what you are buffing should get warm not hot . next with a black foam pad and machine glaze, set the buffer at its lowest speed about 1000 rpm and go over the hood once more , like in step one . now step 3 use a hand glaze with detail rags (do not use t-shirts) there should be no to very little red coming off on the rag at this point . next wax if you want . wax does not stop paint from fading !the suns UV rays is what kills paint. you also should try to stay away from clear coating over fading paint, the sub straight (paint) has already failed by buffing your just slowing it down . and the clear will ,in time delaminate . the only real fix is to refinish the panel ! one more little thing for the black rubber on your car that has started to turn white try petrolrum jelly . cover with one thick coat and let it bake in the sun all day if you start to get dry spots then recoat with more jelly. at the end if the day wipe off .
#30
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Originally Posted by alordofchaos
A little thread hijack here, but there seems to be a lot of experience/ knowledge
I have a red '86 - that's a single stage (no clear coat), right?
Paint is in decent shape, hood is faded but I'll be buffing it out. Then I'll clay bar the whole thing - I'll search for Geoff's writeup on detailing first.
So - I should not spray any kind of a clear coat over it afterwards? Just wax?
Thanks! <bow down> (those gif things don't seem to be working for me today)
I have a red '86 - that's a single stage (no clear coat), right?
Paint is in decent shape, hood is faded but I'll be buffing it out. Then I'll clay bar the whole thing - I'll search for Geoff's writeup on detailing first.
So - I should not spray any kind of a clear coat over it afterwards? Just wax?
Thanks! <bow down> (those gif things don't seem to be working for me today)
Definately DO NOT spray clear coat over a waxed surface...