It runs!!!!! Well sorta
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Got things put back together today. Starts up fine however when I give it gas it stumbles and will eventually die. If I let off the gas it will run back to normal again. Any thoughts? Here is what I have done:
Replaced throttle cable
Replaced ref & speed sensors
installed new vacuum hoses
I still need to replace the O2 sensor, so not sure if that is what is causing my issue or not.
Here is a link to what happened before I started to replace the parts above: https://rennlist.com/forums/924-931-944-951-968-forum/340467-needing-parts.html
I'm up for any and all suggestions.
Replaced throttle cable
Replaced ref & speed sensors
installed new vacuum hoses
I still need to replace the O2 sensor, so not sure if that is what is causing my issue or not.
Here is a link to what happened before I started to replace the parts above: https://rennlist.com/forums/924-931-944-951-968-forum/340467-needing-parts.html
I'm up for any and all suggestions.
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Wow that was quick.
Why is that every time I take out the air flow box I always forget to hook it back pu and then always forget why it runs like crap. I've done this 3 times now.
Ok it runs and stays running when I give it throttle. It used to idle around 900, but now it idle's around 1200.
Why is that every time I take out the air flow box I always forget to hook it back pu and then always forget why it runs like crap. I've done this 3 times now.
Ok it runs and stays running when I give it throttle. It used to idle around 900, but now it idle's around 1200.
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Congratulations, glad to hear you decided to bring it back to life!
I wonder if the new throttle cable is just shorter (as in not stretched) than the old one and that's why the idle is higher...
I wonder if the new throttle cable is just shorter (as in not stretched) than the old one and that's why the idle is higher...
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Does the Linsey steps work for a NA?
It's going to the shop on Monday to have the new O2 sensor installed since I can't get the one in there to come off as well as an alignment. TPS could of shot crap from the fire so I think I'll go ahead and replace it.
The new throttle cable is actually longer then the old one, or at least is adjusted differently. I'll look at that in a few.
It's going to the shop on Monday to have the new O2 sensor installed since I can't get the one in there to come off as well as an alignment. TPS could of shot crap from the fire so I think I'll go ahead and replace it.
The new throttle cable is actually longer then the old one, or at least is adjusted differently. I'll look at that in a few.
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No - steps 1 and 2
Step 1 - Setting the hard stop
This is performed while the car is not running. The purpose of the hard stop adjustment is to keep the throttle plate from binding or landing in the throttle body bore too hard. It's purpose is "not" to set the idle speed. Loosen the jam nut (8mm). Loosen the screw with a small straight blade screwdriver slowly and carefully until the screw turns loose. With a gentle touch, slowly turn the screw back in until you can feel it touch the stop. From there, turn it another 1/8 turn. Tighten the lock nut back down. If you have the intercooler pipe off, you would barely be able to detect that the throttle plate moved.
Step 2 - Setting the Throttle Position Sensor (TPS)
Car is still not running. A correctly adjusted throttle position sensor will make a clicking sound when you just roll the throttle off the stop. Place your fingers on the throttle cam and rotate the throttle open off idle. If it does not click, it's not adjusted properly. If it rotates several degrees before clicking, it's not adjusted properly. Loosen the two phillip screws on the TPS just enough to allow you to rotate it with a slight effort. Rotate the TPS to where when you rotate the throttle cam, it clicks when you're just off the stop or about 1 degree of rotation. Then tighten the two TPS screws back down.
Step 1 - Setting the hard stop
This is performed while the car is not running. The purpose of the hard stop adjustment is to keep the throttle plate from binding or landing in the throttle body bore too hard. It's purpose is "not" to set the idle speed. Loosen the jam nut (8mm). Loosen the screw with a small straight blade screwdriver slowly and carefully until the screw turns loose. With a gentle touch, slowly turn the screw back in until you can feel it touch the stop. From there, turn it another 1/8 turn. Tighten the lock nut back down. If you have the intercooler pipe off, you would barely be able to detect that the throttle plate moved.
Step 2 - Setting the Throttle Position Sensor (TPS)
Car is still not running. A correctly adjusted throttle position sensor will make a clicking sound when you just roll the throttle off the stop. Place your fingers on the throttle cam and rotate the throttle open off idle. If it does not click, it's not adjusted properly. If it rotates several degrees before clicking, it's not adjusted properly. Loosen the two phillip screws on the TPS just enough to allow you to rotate it with a slight effort. Rotate the TPS to where when you rotate the throttle cam, it clicks when you're just off the stop or about 1 degree of rotation. Then tighten the two TPS screws back down.
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Didn't get a chance to adjust the idle before we left for the in-laws. But have a problem now.
Went to leave, started up fine, got the end of the street and it just died on me. It will crank over but wont fire. I'm hoping it's just that I am out of gas, but is there anything else it could be? I'm headed back over there in a couple of hours so any suggestions?
Went to leave, started up fine, got the end of the street and it just died on me. It will crank over but wont fire. I'm hoping it's just that I am out of gas, but is there anything else it could be? I'm headed back over there in a couple of hours so any suggestions?
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Had it taken to the shop tonight. Needed to go in anyway to figure out why it failed emission tests. now it wont even start. TPS might be completely shot. I couldn't hear it click when I turned the throttle. I'll post what they find.
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Heard from the shop this morning. Better then he and I both thought. Turns out it was the fuel injector connectors. They got new ones on and it runs great an the high idle is now fixed.
While it's there they are going to replace the O2 sensor, safety inspection and try to find the rattling noise when the RPM's are around 3k.
So far it sounds like I might walk out less then $500! keeping my fingers crossed.
While it's there they are going to replace the O2 sensor, safety inspection and try to find the rattling noise when the RPM's are around 3k.
So far it sounds like I might walk out less then $500! keeping my fingers crossed.