/goes looking for cheap flights from cincinatti to DFW/

 

 

Just the belt doesn't look that bad, but then everyone starts talking about rollers,seals,waterpump ect..
And then it starts to sound like a big job. Is it all really neacessary? And which tools are the most useful?

 

too me it's necessary because if any of the other parts seize up then the belt is going to get wrecked pretty fast. Also if you replace all the parts at once you won't have to worry about it for a long time. for example if you start leaking oil on the blet a few months later then you'll have to do it again and it's a waste of time to me. Same with the water pump, if you don't know the age and miles it might start leaking in a few months or even seize up.

you don't really need too many special tools, just the pin wrench for the balance shaft gears, flywheel lock, and 2 torque wrenches (foot pound that goes up to 160 and small inch pound that goes as low as 5 ft-lbs) and of course regular metric socket/ wrenches and probably a large breaker bar.

oh and if you're doing the oil seals a large socket the size of the oil seals or a block of wood / hamemr to tap in the oil seals is needed.

another usefull tool would be the porsche tensioning tool but that's super expensive and some people here use the arnnworx or whatever but that didn't work for me. I just took it to a shop to get it tensioned.

 

Just completed this job over the winter, minus the waterpump - will get that next time. I used the Arnnworx tools and the 920x and it was straightforward, except for the crankshaft seal. My fault, I tried to force the new one over the oil pump drive gear and destroyed it. Ordered a new one and a new gear and installed in the proper order the second time. Also make sure you put the washer on the crankshaft pully bolt on the right way (cupped side towards motor) or else no oil pressure! Learned this one the hard way.

 

+1 on that last post. The idea is to get all of that stuff done while you have the belts off. If you have no history on when the water pump was last replaced it would be a good idea to do that too as well as the oil cooler seals while you have the coolant drained (an oil pressure relief valve alignment tool will be needed to do the oil cooler). The 944 online kits seem like a good deal to me http://www.944online.com/cgi-bin/ASI...ercooling-9441

A few things not included in this kit that might be needed are the oil pump drive gear (the pump drive gear slides off after the crankshaft sprocket is removed). The seal lip rides on it and can develop a groove that prevents a new seal from sealing properly. http://www.944online.com/cgi-bin/ASI...brication-9441
Make sure to order the correct one for your car (will need engine serial number).

Also, you may need balance shaft and camshaft seal races - they are replaceable metal pieces on which the balance shaft oil seal lip rides. http://www.944online.com/cgi-bin/ASI...41+engine-9441
and http://www.944online.com/cgi-bin/ASI...amhousing-9441

Same deal - if they are grooved where the lip contacts they'll need replacing. It might not be a bad idea to buy an extra seal for each the camshaft, crankshaft and balance shafts in case you bugger one up on installation.

I know it seems like an awful lot but getting this all done up front will help ensure good reliability from these cars. Mine has 230,000 miles and is a very reliable daily driver.

 

I did my first belts/waterpump job when all I had done previously was changing the oil and doing brake jobs. I read a lot, bought the factory service manual and the Haynes manual, and a bunch of tools. I had a really good idea going in what was required, and took my time doing it. I took copious notes and put everything in marked baggies.

The first time I started the car, I noticed there was coolant leaking from under the car. What a relief it was when I discovered it was the radiator!

I also did the seals recently (see signature) and also made the mistake of putting the crank washer in backwards.

What I really fear is doing the clutch!

 

Nice pictures man, that will definitely help me out.

I have another question for you guys...

the car has been sitting for about a year now ( I know, I know...) and I kind of want to drive it home (it's about a mile or two away) so I don't have to drive anywhere to work on it. The timing belt isn't bad or anything, it has about 20k on it, I'm actually only changing it because I'm going to be doing the seals. Is it risky, do you think, to drive it the couple miles home?

 

I would suggest at least pulling the cover and doing a visual on the T-belt and B/S belt before starting it. If a B/S belt goes it can easily take the T-belt with it....

 

Good call, actually.

 

Mike C's post #21 has excellent points, quite often the grooved races are over looked, not to mention the mylar "onion skins".

 

checked the belt out tonight, it looks pretty close to perfect to me... pictures in a minute.

edit: big pictures

http://www.project2music.com/Images/connors%20****.jpg

http://www.project2music.com/Images/connors%20****2.jpg

 

BTW, what year is your car? It has an updated water pump which is good and the wp pulley looks very new - any history on when this pump was installed? I'll bet not too long ago. It does look like oil has made its way in there.... definitely time for seals...

 

Getting the crank seal in properly is the most difficult part for me. I got much better at it by time I got to the third car. Also make sure you order the correct crank seal, they changed the part around 85 model year I think.

 

at first, I didn't think it was necessary... then I had a balance belt roller seize, and shave off ALL of the teeth on one side of the belt... and wore it paper thin.

this is about 1000 miles after a belt job... damn near killed the engine. now, I'm religious. NEW ROLLERS EVERY OTHER BELT CHANGE!!!!