Broken tensioner stud...how do you get it out???
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Drifting
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86 951, tensioner stud broke at the start of the threads, in the block. What is the best way to get the rest out??
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Assuming there is nothing to grab onto I would use an easy-out and some heat. The stud installed with a strong version of loctite and IIRC, it required some heat to get it moving. Try to center punch in the middle before drilling.
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It is the black 951.
Charlie,
Glad you guys got to come up. Sorry you ended up getting a little dirty!!! Tell Jim to come buy those Boxster rims!!!
Charlie,
Glad you guys got to come up. Sorry you ended up getting a little dirty!!! Tell Jim to come buy those Boxster rims!!!
#7
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Todd, we had a great time. I assume this is then tensioning bolt that goes through the oil pump. If it is broke off at the block then I assume you have removed the oil pump. I would try to center punch it, after doing that I would find a steel sleeve that would fit inside the oil pump bolt hole that had just a larger inside diameter than the drill bit I was using. I would put the pump on and use the sleeve to keep the bit centered.
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Easy-outs are like Russian roulette but with worst odds. If it breaks off, which it usually does, you are screwed. You now have a hunk of metal in your stud that you can't drill out.
I'd either drill it out and re thread or use a heli-coil. Or my preferred method is the place a nut over the stud (or what's left of it) and MIG/TIG the nut to the stud. I have always been able to remove a stud with this method. Even when the stud is below the surface. Sometimes you need to try it 2-3 times. After the weld and as the bolts cools from orange color, ever so slightly tighten the bolt to break the seal, then loosen it out. Sounds strange but most successful method.
JimB
I'd either drill it out and re thread or use a heli-coil. Or my preferred method is the place a nut over the stud (or what's left of it) and MIG/TIG the nut to the stud. I have always been able to remove a stud with this method. Even when the stud is below the surface. Sometimes you need to try it 2-3 times. After the weld and as the bolts cools from orange color, ever so slightly tighten the bolt to break the seal, then loosen it out. Sounds strange but most successful method.
JimB
#11
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What Charlie said.
None of the few I have removed had loctite on them, so if you can just get a grip on it you should be home free. There is a newer version of the easy out that works much better. If the stud is just below the surface of the oil pump, you can always take the pump off to get the stub out. But what a PITA!!! that is. This is why I always recommend replacing it and is on the parts list for the pre '87's.
None of the few I have removed had loctite on them, so if you can just get a grip on it you should be home free. There is a newer version of the easy out that works much better. If the stud is just below the surface of the oil pump, you can always take the pump off to get the stub out. But what a PITA!!! that is. This is why I always recommend replacing it and is on the parts list for the pre '87's.
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It is actually broke off just below the surface of the block. I'm going to try a left hand drill. If that dosen't get it out, then I will already have a hole for the easy-out. I will be using some heat!!!
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If the easy out won't budge it easily it probably would be better to do a Heli-coil or Timecert. You definitely don't want to break off the easy out in there. So get the original hole as centered as possible. I guess I was lucky on mine....