Comparison of H4 E-codes and Vision Plus (DOT) lenses
03-20-2007, 11:43 PM
#17
Instructor
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Originally Posted by Techno Duck
If you really want to compare, measure the voltage across the headlight plug. Actual light output is subjective and is hard to 'capture' with pictures.
Someone did take these pictures showing what IceShark's harness was capable of. It was enough to convince me...
These pictures were taken using the same exposure time and aperture.
Someone did take these pictures showing what IceShark's harness was capable of. It was enough to convince me...
These pictures were taken using the same exposure time and aperture.
03-20-2007, 11:58 PM
#18
Not Special
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Yeah, that's exactly the order, I believe. The harness makes a HUGE difference (and if you don't want to go with uber-bulbs, is the way to go) even with stock lighting. You want to run the lights in the IceShark kit without a harness? Hope you like the smell of burning plastic...that's the switch in your dash melting.
03-21-2007, 01:37 AM
#19
Burning Brakes
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Its the amperage not the voltage that is changing that.
Running independent grounds from the grounding points that the lights currently run to and then directly to the main ground near the battery makes for a stunning difference as well due to the decreased resistance for current to flow and make a circuit back to the battery. V=IR...... my stock bulbs went from yellow to white. nuf said.
The harness is key when running increased amperage as this is what is heating the wires. It takes more amperage to run those higher wattage bulbs. I*V = watts. (lamens terms)
You need the harness not only because the relays and switches are rated for more current flow but also because the stock harness gets too hot and will not only accelerate the wear on electro-mechanical devices but also because as your stock harness gets hotter it becomes less effecient. This is because at a specific temperature the resistance of the wire is related to its length and cross sectional area (guage) and the constant of resistivity its made of (copper) so R = c * (L/A) and then R(total) = (R at 20 Celsius) * (1 + c(constant of resitance of material) * T(the temperature your ****ty stock harness is at.)
More heat = more resistance = less amperage= even dimmer lights.
Im sure I pissed off all the EE guys, but some people dont know/remember this stuff. I think the harness is a boondoggle IMO unless you are running aftermarket "hard-core" lights (>65 watt bulbs.) If you are on stock just clean up your grounds and contacts and maybe run some independent grounds and it makes a night and day difference, pun intended.
Running independent grounds from the grounding points that the lights currently run to and then directly to the main ground near the battery makes for a stunning difference as well due to the decreased resistance for current to flow and make a circuit back to the battery. V=IR...... my stock bulbs went from yellow to white. nuf said.
The harness is key when running increased amperage as this is what is heating the wires. It takes more amperage to run those higher wattage bulbs. I*V = watts. (lamens terms)
You need the harness not only because the relays and switches are rated for more current flow but also because the stock harness gets too hot and will not only accelerate the wear on electro-mechanical devices but also because as your stock harness gets hotter it becomes less effecient. This is because at a specific temperature the resistance of the wire is related to its length and cross sectional area (guage) and the constant of resistivity its made of (copper) so R = c * (L/A) and then R(total) = (R at 20 Celsius) * (1 + c(constant of resitance of material) * T(the temperature your ****ty stock harness is at.)
More heat = more resistance = less amperage= even dimmer lights.
Im sure I pissed off all the EE guys, but some people dont know/remember this stuff. I think the harness is a boondoggle IMO unless you are running aftermarket "hard-core" lights (>65 watt bulbs.) If you are on stock just clean up your grounds and contacts and maybe run some independent grounds and it makes a night and day difference, pun intended.
03-21-2007, 01:44 AM
#20
Not Special
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Hey, that was good for a laugh. I'm definately no engineer, so I take no offense. I'll make a bit of a modification to the write-up that goes with the comparison photos...I'm attempting to make a compilation so we can just point everybody to it. 
