$50 DIY paint
03-19-2007, 11:49 AM
#16
Three Wheelin'
Originally Posted by version13
Let us know how it turns out. When are you attempting it?
03-19-2007, 12:28 PM
#17
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I have seen this thread (the original Mopar one…) many times and I agree that it is completely appropriate to use on a car which does not justify the expenditure needed for a quality auto paint.
One of the truths I have learned about painting is that given good prep on the front end, and carefully polishing on the back end, ANY paint can be made to look very good. The big difference is that there is a universe of a difference between a quality activated auto paint and anything out of a spray or pint can (and I am quite familiar with Rustoleum) when it comes to adhesion, hardness, UV resistance etc. This is the difference that you get by spending more on quality paint. Again, for some cars, it’s just not worth it.
One situation in which I would caution against doing this is as a temporary stop gap (i.e. “I will re-do my car today with the Rustoleum (or whatever similar alternative) and then do a proper re-spray in two years…”). The Rustoleum will make a totally inadequate base for the later re-spray and would in this case be a real liability.
If you are going to consider the roll-on method, you can equally consider using rattle can products. I did this on the hood of my Subaru (with two color bases and a clear, all out of cheap spray cans) and it looks better than stock, due to wetsanding and polishing. I will take pics and post them up later. If you search, there is a member, Mideast Mafia I think, who re-did his car with rattle cans and it looks very good too. The difference is still: Although my Subie hood looks good, I know the paint is very soft and won’t last as well.
One of the truths I have learned about painting is that given good prep on the front end, and carefully polishing on the back end, ANY paint can be made to look very good. The big difference is that there is a universe of a difference between a quality activated auto paint and anything out of a spray or pint can (and I am quite familiar with Rustoleum) when it comes to adhesion, hardness, UV resistance etc. This is the difference that you get by spending more on quality paint. Again, for some cars, it’s just not worth it.
One situation in which I would caution against doing this is as a temporary stop gap (i.e. “I will re-do my car today with the Rustoleum (or whatever similar alternative) and then do a proper re-spray in two years…”). The Rustoleum will make a totally inadequate base for the later re-spray and would in this case be a real liability.
If you are going to consider the roll-on method, you can equally consider using rattle can products. I did this on the hood of my Subaru (with two color bases and a clear, all out of cheap spray cans) and it looks better than stock, due to wetsanding and polishing. I will take pics and post them up later. If you search, there is a member, Mideast Mafia I think, who re-did his car with rattle cans and it looks very good too. The difference is still: Although my Subie hood looks good, I know the paint is very soft and won’t last as well.
03-19-2007, 04:24 PM
#19
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Originally Posted by amjf088
I have seen this thread (the original Mopar one…) many times and I agree that it is completely appropriate to use on a car which does not justify the expenditure needed for a quality auto paint.
One of the truths I have learned about painting is that given good prep on the front end, and carefully polishing on the back end, ANY paint can be made to look very good. The big difference is that there is a universe of a difference between a quality activated auto paint and anything out of a spray or pint can (and I am quite familiar with Rustoleum) when it comes to adhesion, hardness, UV resistance etc. This is the difference that you get by spending more on quality paint. Again, for some cars, it’s just not worth it.
One situation in which I would caution against doing this is as a temporary stop gap (i.e. “I will re-do my car today with the Rustoleum (or whatever similar alternative) and then do a proper re-spray in two years…”). The Rustoleum will make a totally inadequate base for the later re-spray and would in this case be a real liability.
If you are going to consider the roll-on method, you can equally consider using rattle can products. I did this on the hood of my Subaru (with two color bases and a clear, all out of cheap spray cans) and it looks better than stock, due to wetsanding and polishing. I will take pics and post them up later. If you search, there is a member, Mideast Mafia I think, who re-did his car with rattle cans and it looks very good too. The difference is still: Although my Subie hood looks good, I know the paint is very soft and won’t last as well.
One of the truths I have learned about painting is that given good prep on the front end, and carefully polishing on the back end, ANY paint can be made to look very good. The big difference is that there is a universe of a difference between a quality activated auto paint and anything out of a spray or pint can (and I am quite familiar with Rustoleum) when it comes to adhesion, hardness, UV resistance etc. This is the difference that you get by spending more on quality paint. Again, for some cars, it’s just not worth it.
One situation in which I would caution against doing this is as a temporary stop gap (i.e. “I will re-do my car today with the Rustoleum (or whatever similar alternative) and then do a proper re-spray in two years…”). The Rustoleum will make a totally inadequate base for the later re-spray and would in this case be a real liability.
If you are going to consider the roll-on method, you can equally consider using rattle can products. I did this on the hood of my Subaru (with two color bases and a clear, all out of cheap spray cans) and it looks better than stock, due to wetsanding and polishing. I will take pics and post them up later. If you search, there is a member, Mideast Mafia I think, who re-did his car with rattle cans and it looks very good too. The difference is still: Although my Subie hood looks good, I know the paint is very soft and won’t last as well.
the original poster says it is a good base for a later respray with real car paint...
03-19-2007, 06:58 PM
#22
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Originally Posted by 944J
the original poster says it is a good base for a later respray with real car paint...
03-20-2007, 04:23 PM
#23
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As I mentioned before, here is a pic of my Subaru's hood that I did with rattle can paint. It can be made to look good, but it is nowhere near has tough as the Glasurit I sprayed on the P-Car. It all depends on what you want.
03-20-2007, 05:32 PM
#26
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The only paint colors that are available with the Rustoleum paint are the colors rustoleum makes.
No P-car colors, or any factory auto colors for that matter, just a variety of black, red, white, etc
http://www.rustoleum.com/product.asp...ct_id=18&SBL=1
No P-car colors, or any factory auto colors for that matter, just a variety of black, red, white, etc
http://www.rustoleum.com/product.asp...ct_id=18&SBL=1
03-21-2007, 01:57 AM
#27
Three Wheelin'
You should also try www.yachtpaint.com, and look under Brightside. Some of the roller guys used that paint with great success as well...though the colors are fairly limited.
03-21-2007, 02:27 AM
#28
Burning Brakes
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Hahha I just re-painted my boat "fire-red" with Brightside. Unless you are driving your 944 underwater I dont think you need that paint. What is the difference between those guards red paint codes?
R911, GM70, LM3A? Are these different shades of red? Are they different designations for the same shade of red? Is it because a different paint manufacture was used for each type even though the shade is the same...? Im curious of this as well!
R911, GM70, LM3A? Are these different shades of red? Are they different designations for the same shade of red? Is it because a different paint manufacture was used for each type even though the shade is the same...? Im curious of this as well!
03-21-2007, 04:27 AM
#29
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Guards Red from different years (and therefore different codes) may look the same when they are new, but they age differently. My old 944 was turning orange when I decided to repaint it. My 968 is slowly turning pink these days.
03-22-2007, 02:54 PM
#30
Race Director
Would this process / paint work well for wheels? I have a set of spare wheels I was going to have powdercoated white but if I can use this process for cheap,,......then Im interested. Any reason not to?