OK...I have the new rotors and obviously will get pads (suggestions as to which ones are welcome!)...

What else do I need? Other than my metric tools are there any special tools I need to have?

What other 'stuff' should I be prepared to replace (ABS sensors, etc)?

TIA!


Joe

 

19mm socket to take the caliper off and probably a breaker bar
Channel-Locks to get the spring clips out
Very likely a impact driver to get the rotor set screws off
Dead blow hammer or a short piece of 2x4 and a hammer to knock the rotor off

You may need new pad sensors, ABS sensors stay inside the spindle and dont need to be replaced unless damaged.

Remember to paint the rotor hats or they will rust and look like crap.

Re torque caliper bolts to 63 ft-lbs. And put anti-seize on the caliper set screws so they dont seize up.

 

Thanks Jon! Paint the hats with what paint?

 

Any high temp engine paint works. Clean the rotor hats with acetone as they probably have a light film of machine oil on them.

 

Here it comes! Words of wisdom from the Krylon King.

 

There should be two holes in each rotor that you can thread a bold into. They're for getting the rotor off the hub. A helluva lot easier than using a 2x4 to knock it off. Jon, whats the 19mm used for when taking off the caliper? I never used one.

-Darwin

 

BTW, you may need a c-clamp to compress the pistons, but i usually am able to just push them back in by hand.

And you can also paint the outside edges of the rotor (with the vents) as they get surface rust also, but i usually dont bother.

 

so Darwin...what do you do when you've threaded the two bolts in to those holes? What's the magic I am missing??

 

Just use a mallet and knock the rotor off towards you, takes two seconds!

As for brake pads, if its just a street car i would do PBR MetalMasters. Cheap and not a bad pad even for auto-x usage. I run those in the rear and the Porterfield R4S (auto-x / street compound) in the front. They are more expensive (About $100 per axle as opposed to the $40 PBR's).
Joe, did you have your speed cluster recalibrated by NH Speedometer? Does your gas gauge sit level with the last line when the car is shut off?

 

Berk, you thread a bolt into the hole until it touches the hub. Then you keep tightening and the rotor will just pop off onto the studs. You only need to thread one bolt into the rotor. Jons way way is perfectly fine, I just saw the holes in the rotor had and found it extremely easy to get it off (mine were being stubborn!).

-Darwin

 

Thanks to both of you!! Always good to have a plan A and B!

Jon

yes..they did recalibrate the cluster...I'll check tomorrow and get back to you...never really noticed!

best

Joe

 

Mine (Along with about every other 944 i have seen) sits about 1/4 of a tank below the empty mark when the car is shut off. My gas gauge also only reads 3/4 of a tank at full tank..also something i noticed on many other 944's. I have a feeling my my water temp gauge is off by about one lines width also.

Oil pressure and voltmeter dont do this i noticed.

 

Think we are assuming a non-m030 S2 brake setup. Similar to our rear brakes. Turbo S front mount with 10mm allens

forget that bolt deal. just hammer the rotor off

 

Ah, sorry 'bout that guys!

-Darwin

 

joe i have the right tool to compress the pistons in the calipers (with the caliper mounted), i can bring it to work for you. it makes the job a bunch easier