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Hatch shocks!

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Old 02-18-2007 | 04:59 PM
  #16  
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how about Hood shocks?
Old 02-18-2007 | 05:03 PM
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just checked only showing 928,s right now but thats where mine came from
Old 02-18-2007 | 05:10 PM
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Nelson,
PM me, I have a set of like new hood shocks if you are interested.
Shane
Old 02-18-2007 | 11:07 PM
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I don`t think the struts can exert enough push on the hatch to cause window separation
while it is closed. Looks to me like it is caused by closing the hatch too quickly instead
of bringing it down gently.
Old 02-18-2007 | 11:17 PM
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Wow... so honestly, it fixed my rear wiper rattle... wasn't expecting that one!

as for the delamination, I can see it both for, and against. on my 924S, I put in the new struts, and had to adjust the latches to make sure it still lined up. The turbo, it was perfect. it actually latches better now, and everything is great! I dropped a good chunk of change on em, but the way they work, they don't seem to me to be overly strong, they're very smooth in operation, and it doesn't seem like it's putting stress anywhere there shouldn't be stress...

On the 924S however, it's like a rocket hatch. push the button, and it's immediately open... rattles as the hatch opens. don't know if I got cheap or expensive for that one, but the ones on the turbo are amazing! well worth the $80.00!
Old 02-18-2007 | 11:56 PM
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Well, I bought the hatch shocks which seperated my glass from my frame from a seller of Porsche parts, how was I to know. I even went looking for the old struts to reinstall them, could not find them. I've bought several pairs for my stable of RX7s and never had a problem.
Mike
Old 02-19-2007 | 01:09 AM
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The seperation of the glass from the frame is a common problem, it has to do with the primer seperating from the galss. The glue is still firmly attached to the primer. So, it may have been sped up by the jar of the shocks but it would have happened in a manner of time.
Old 02-19-2007 | 01:26 AM
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Originally Posted by caster951
Nelson,
PM me, I have a set of like new hood shocks if you are interested.
Shane
Pm sent.
Old 02-19-2007 | 01:55 AM
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Me too...

Originally Posted by mbonner
I put new hatch shocks in and immediately the glass separated from the hatch at the top. Too strong, I think, especially in hot weather. So be careful.
Mike
Old 02-19-2007 | 02:02 AM
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I drilled a little hole through the rear hatch shocks, and tied a snap pin to them. Now when I want the hatch to stay up I just clip the little pin through the hole I drilled. It will never wear out and it wont split the glass either
Old 02-19-2007 | 02:08 AM
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innovative, but it doesn't allow for the hatch to open itself when you hit the button
Old 02-19-2007 | 02:54 AM
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Yeah but my button is broke and in the name of weight I removed the hatch motor and the electronics that went with it. lol
Old 02-19-2007 | 03:07 AM
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Originally Posted by beab951
The seperation of the glass from the frame is a common problem, it has to do with the primer seperating from the galss. The glue is still firmly attached to the primer. So, it may have been sped up by the jar of the shocks but it would have happened in a manner of time.
Both contribute to the failure of the other. As the UV breaks down the primer and adhesive, the shocks become effectively, we more EFFECTIVE!(lol)
Ofcourse if you have had the hatch re-sealed, then the push of the struts is the real active force contributing to the future failure by creating stress on the seal.
The reason I replied is that to have unequal pressure from one shock or the other, you significantly increase and localize the push.
Yes shutting the hatch slowly is important, but shutting it evenly EVERY TIME is even more important. When it twists, it undergoes stress that it was not designed to tolerate. The same holds true for mismatched shocks. Unequal force equals twisting force.
At the end of the day, it's one of the most obvious design flaws in the 944/968 series cars. (That's probably why this doesn't happen on RX7's) I haven't looked but I'd bet that the RX7 has some additional form of fastener between the frame and the glass.
If you've ever done a hatch re-seal yourself, you'll see just how flimsy the hatch frame is. It is CRAZY EASY to bend the frame, even when it is installed and sealed. Once it bends you may as well start marking your calender until you'll have a separation failure.
I did the job on a backup hatch. It really isn't hard to do. Just don't break the galss. (ergo why I did it first on the back up hatch)
Old 02-19-2007 | 09:52 AM
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Originally Posted by ehall
I did the job on a backup hatch. It really isn't hard to do. Just don't break the galss. (ergo why I did it first on the back up hatch)
You hit the nail on the head. I have resealed two, broke one. The frame is weak and it is a real PITA to cut the glass out of the frame. No doubt, it is a poor design and someone didn't even consider that anyone would replace the rear glass.

It is amazing how easy it is to close the hatch with only on side locked in place and the other still stuck on top of the catch.
Old 02-19-2007 | 11:28 AM
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What way is best to handle and store the hatch to avoid breakage?

My primary is separated, and I want to pull it off and reseal, and install the hatch off of my parts car. I know about the clark's article, but should the hatch be moved and stored upright? flat?


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